upper gentle part. Then along the snowy slope for about 1000 m to the Pirokaya saddle — to the lowest point of the ridge between the Unremarkable (Sharilya) and Warsaw peaks. The ascent route to the peak goes along the ridge leading from the Unremarkable (Sharilya) peak to Warsaw. The first elevation on the ridge is bypassed on the left along the snow. Then:

• along the gentle snowy ridge to the first ascent of 50 m (steepness 50°); the ascent is overcome head-on;
• a gentle and sharp snowy ridge of 50 m leads to the second ascent of about 10 m, which is also passed head-on on snow;
• after 30 m of snowy ridge, the exit is under the rocky summit — a tower. From under the tower:
• 40 m along the névé — ice with a steepness of about 50° with rock exits;

Parus (3rd peak), SW edge, cat. 5B 1480, 2043, 72°; 641 (39); 158 (39); 3/2; 5 days, 6 nights. 41 hours against Trench standard D. Egorov, I. Belyaev, S. Mikhailov, Ch. Khlyustikov (Masovy) from July 14 to 19, 1989 Photo-2. Route profile on the left (ridge) Taken from p. Ashat on July 13, 1989. S ≈ 5 km, H ≈ 2500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro. Photo-3. Route profile on the right (triangle) Taken from the cirque of v. Parus on July 11, 1989. S ≈ 7 km, H ≈ 3500 m, op/a. Silhouette - Elektro.

Tactical Actions of the Team

Участок R0–R1. Snow slope 40°, 200 m. 2nd diff. cl. The ridge is bypassed on the right. Участок R1–R2. Over rocks 55°, 60 m — to the main ridge 4th diff. cl. Участок R2–R3 — 150 m, 40°, main ridge, at the end a control point. Участок R3–R4 — 200 m — 50°, rocks 3rd diff. cl., in the direction to the sharp жандарму on the ridge. Участок R4–R5 — 150 m. To the right along the rock shelf 2nd diff. cl. Участок R5–R6 — left upwards along rocks and shelves 100 m, 50°. Descent. Участок R6–R7 — 20 m. Snowy rocks 55°, 4th diff. cl. Entry onto the edge. Участок R7–R8. 1st ва­лет on the ridge, from the left along the wall with a ще­лью, in counter-pressure 10 m. transition into a steep groove 15 m. Total length of the section 30 m., steepness 85°, 5th diff. cl.

XVIII. Brief Explanation of the UIAA Scheme

The ascent along the snowy cone of the talus does not constitute part of the route but is considered a difficult section because the loose deep snow interspersed with ice blocks complicates movement. Sec. R0–R1 · Bergschrund — a crevasse perpendicular to the slope, the upper edge of which overhangs and acts as a springboard. Sec. R1–R2 · Firn couloir with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R2–R3 · Ice groove through a rock belt 50 m, up to 65°. Sec. R3–R4 · Firn slope with a steepness of 50°. Sec. R4–R5 · Entry onto the "ram's foreheads" along the line between the upper rock steps. Sec. R5–R6 · Snow-covered "ram's foreheads". Sec. R6–R7 · Rocky ascent 150 m, 60°. Sec. R7–R8 · Ice wall 40 m, exit onto a ledge between seracs. Sec. R8–R9 · Traverse left to bypass the icefall. Sec. R9–R10 · Snow ascent 30°. Entry onto the saddle. Sec. R10–R11 · Flat snow field towards the Eastern ridge of the North summit of Western Belukha. Sec. R11–R12 · Wind-swept ice ridge with rocky outcrops 45°, 500 m. Sec. R12–R13 · Summit ridge with snow cornice to the left, up to the North summit of Western Belukha 300 m. Sec. R13–R14 · 1000 m along a sharp snowy ridge traverse to the main summit of the Specified Belukha 4456 m. Caution, snow cornices! Sec. R14–R15 · Descent along the Western ridge of the main summit onto the Western plateau, 400 m vertically.

168

PASSPORT

1. Class — first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. V. Achkasova via the north ridge.
4. Proposed 3B cat. dif. (first ascent).
5. Height 3696 m, height difference 680 m, length 1230 m, average slope 33°.
6. Pitons — 6 cams, 8 ice screws.
7. Climbing hours 18 (from camp to camp).
8. Recommended to camp on the glacier at the start of the route.

V. Barnulskikh alpinistov Vinnikov E.A. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge 1.2.80

Passport

1. Class: first ascent
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge
3. V. Barnulskikh alpinistov, category 3B
4. Proposed category 3B first ascent

9 171

PASSPORT

1. Category — first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. V. Geodezicheskaya via the northern ridge.
4. Proposed category: 3A (first ascent).
5. Height 3529 m, elevation gain 480 m, length 950 m, average slope 32°.
6. Climbing time 12 hours (from camp to camp).
7. Overnight stay — not required.
8. Equipment — 8 ice screws.

Sheet 1

Passport

1. Class — rock, route character — combined.
2. Region — Altai, Aktru gorge.
3. Peak Karatash, via N. side, western glacier "Tronov's pants".
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 975 m, length — 1400 m length of sections with V and VI category of difficulty — 195 m average steepness — 50°, average steepness of the main part (icefall) — 90°, 120 m.

PASSPORT

1. Snow-ice class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Kupol via North-West slope.
4. Proposed 2B category of difficulty (the group of first ascensionists KSYUTUR of the Altai Krai under the leadership of Nazarenko V.A. in 1993 assessed the route as 3B, which is clearly overestimated).
5. Elevation difference 650 m, length 1900 m.
6. Ice screws 12 pcs.
7. 10 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Drakin A.V., CMS

1.2. North Chuya Range, Aktru gorge

Kzyl-Tash 3486 m via the North slope of the Southwest ridge

Proposed category: 3B, first ascent Route type: snow-ice. Note: height (3486.4) is as per the published 1:50,000 map available on the Internet. Altitude difference as per the group's altimeter: 520 m Route length — 900 m (estimated); including 400 m of category 3 difficulty, between 45° to 50° Average steepness of the entire route — 35° Equipment used on the ascent: 12 ice screws, no rock pitons or stoppers (no protection left behind) Climbing hours on July 16, 2005: from Aktru alpine camp (2100 m) to Uchyitel' pass (3100 m) — 1.5 h (4:00–5:30),