Peak Jambula (4150 m) Ascent to peak Jambula with ascent from the northwest, route 2B cat. sl. (fig. 14). From the bivouac at the lake under the tongue of the North TEU glacier, move to the South TEU glacier, bypassing the ridge coming from the Syputchaya peak. Ascend to the col between the peaks TEU and Jambula via the South TEU glacier. Move along the glacier in teams along the median moraine. Bypass the crevasse zone from the left. The ascent to the col is via a snowy slope with a steepness of 30–35°, then via scree and heavily destroyed rocks. From the col, go along the snowy ridge to the 1st gendarme, which is taken head-on. Descent to the 2nd gendarme is via heavily destroyed rocks and snow. The 2nd gendarme is bypassed from the left along a slope with a steepness of 60°. Careful belaying through an ice axe is necessary. The 3rd gendarme is also bypassed from the left along a snowy-icy slope, closer to the rocks. Here, piton belaying is necessary (2–3 pitons), sometimes step chiseling. The 4th gendarme is bypassed from the left along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 30°. Here, alternate belaying through an ice axe is necessary. The route continues along an icy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then via destroyed rocks and scree reaches the summit. From the bivouac to the summit is 5–6 hours of walking. The summit consists of two elevations. The cairn is on the northwestern one. Descent is along the northeastern ridge to the South TEU glacier along a slope with a steepness of up to 45° with protruding large stones. Careful belaying is necessary. "Sheep's foreheads" are bypassed from the right. Go carefully: it is necessary to take into account the avalanche danger. The descent to the South TEU glacier goes along a snowy slope and takes about 2 hours.

and the inner corner, and again along the middle rocks to a sloping platform, in the upper corner of which there is a cairn with a note. Descent to the snowy ridge, leaving three pre-summit gendarmes on the right side. Bypassing them along steep snowslopes, in three steps, leading to the base of the summit tower. Along easy rocks and large stones, exit to a small saddle between the pre-summit gendarme and the summit tower. From here, ascent to the summit tower, 50–60 m high, and exit (with careful belay) to a rocky platform with "live" stones under an overhanging wall with an inner corner. Exit to the tower through a cleft from the platform under the inner corner straight up. The rocks are difficult. Belay through a ledge. A few meters from the platform, there is a wide horizontal crack:

• Hammer in a piton for belay and foothold.
• Above, there is a small inclined shelf, along which one can enter the cleft.
• Further, on friction, exit to the summit ridge and along it, after a few meters, to the summit. Descent along the scree to the Konstituciya Glacier. From the initial bivouac, the entire ascent takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants: 6–8 people. Not recommended for mass ascents.

Traverse of Issyktent-Chokhu — White Peak — Akgul peaks, 4A cat. difficulty. The peaks of Issyktent-Chokhu, White Peak, and Akgul are located in a ridge branching off to the southeast from the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, known as Issyk-Ten-Chokhu, which separates the Bogatyri and Korzhenevsky glaciers. This ridge borders the Korzhenevsky glacier from the southeast. From the Talgar alpine camp, one reaches the cirque of this glacier via the Suroviy pass and sets up the first bivouac under the peak of GUVVO. The peak of Issyktent-Chokhu is situated between the peaks of Vsevobuch and White Peak. Crossing the glacier, one moves towards the peak (caution: crevasses are present!). The ascent to the ridge is closer to the peak of Vsevobuch and then to the saddle between Vsevobuch and Issyktent-Chokhu peaks. Crampons and alternating belay are required. Crevasses are present. The journey from the bivouac to the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours. Turn right. Ascent to the ridge, crowned with gendarmes. This is the 1st landmark. Further, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty, heavily destroyed (!). It is more convenient to go on the left. Then comes a chain of gendarmes with small drops and a general descent to the "window". Belay is alternating everywhere. Beyond the "window":

• 1st gendarme (40 m), complex rocks
• if the snow condition allows, it is better to bypass the "window" on the left

The summit of Kara-Tas is located in the lateral ridge of the Novy spur, Zailiyskiy Alatau range. This ridge starts from the Jambul peak and runs in a north-eastern direction. To the north of the summit lies the Yuzhny TBU glacier, and to the south - a branch of the Shaklskiy glacier. The route begins from the moraine of the Yuzhny TBU glacier, heading in the direction and reaching the ridge at the saddle between the second and third gendarmes via a wide scree couloir or rock outcrops. A gendarme resembling a finger visible from the glacier can serve as a landmark; it remains on the right during ascent. The first cairn is built on the saddle. From the saddle, move towards the finger (third gendarme), which is bypassed on the right. The fourth gendarme is bypassed on the right along snowy rocks, for a distance of three rope lengths. The rocks are heavily damaged. Alternate belay is necessary. The next gendarmes (5, 6, and 7) are bypassed on the right without reaching the saddles. The rock "saw" is bypassed to the left, without reaching the saddles, followed by an ascent to the ridge along an internal angle (alternate belay). The large 8th gendarme, resembling a bastion, is ascended immediately to the left along moderately difficult rocks. The second cairn is built on the ridge after the eighth gendarme. Then, proceed along the ridge of the Eastern shoulder. Initially, there are rocks, followed by a small snowy plateau. Belay is necessary when reaching the plateau. The plateau transitions into a snowy ridge with a series of gendarmes that are bypassed. Simultaneous movement is permissible here. The ridge leads to a wide rocky ascent, 70–80 m high. Ascent to the rise:

• via scree couloirs and rocks, exiting onto a lateral ridge;
• then along it to the rise. Belay is alternate.

Ascent Log

TO THE SUMMIT OF KLYSHTAU VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent region — Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Summit — Klyishtau via the North-West ridge (4250 m).
4. Expected difficulty category — 4–5.
5. Route description: height difference — 800 m. average steepness — 63° (difficult sections). Length of sections: R1 — 70 m, R14 — 40 m, R15 — 400 m, R2 — 20 m, R3 — 60 m, R4 — 10 m, R16 — 30 m, R17 — 100 m, R5 — 60 m, R6 — 40 m, R7 — 25 m, R18 — 50 m, R8 — 150 m, R9 — 45 m, R10 — 50 m, R11 — 100 m, R12 — 100 m, R13 — 300 m.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors. rock — 65, ice — 3, bolt — .

Route Description

The initial bivouac is on the glacier on the south side of the southwest ridge in a safe location. The exit to the ridge is via a steep scree slope (takes no more than 30 minutes). The first жандарм (rock tower) on the route is bypassed on the left via slabs and a snow patch. Then, ascent is made up a steep snow and ice slope for 10–15 m (protection via protrusions). Beyond this section, there is an exit to the edge via rocks of medium difficulty, transitioning to difficult rocks. It is convenient to bypass them on the right, descending a few meters down, and crossing the scree, exit onto easy rocks of the ridge and approach the second жандарм via rocks of medium difficulty, sticking to the left side (protection via protrusions). The second жандарм, 7–8 m high, is overcome head-on with piton protection. It has a convenient platform for organizing shoulder belays. Descent from the жандарм does not present technical difficulties. The path to the third жандарм is as follows:

• a steep snow patch, dropping off towards the northwest wall of the summit (careful protection via ice axe);
• then — stick to the right rocks, which will make it possible to organize protection via protrusions in some places. The third жандарм is bypassed on the right via a ledge. Without reaching the couloir, ascend upwards between the passed жандарм and the ridge (50–60 m), leading to slabs (careful protection).

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bogdanovich Glacier, exit onto its right branch, ascend along it to the saddle between Fizkulturnik peak and the Peak of Komsomol. From here, the ascent route begins along a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of 60 m. Approaching the foot of the first gendarme, organize belay through a ledge and traverse an icy couloir for up to 30 m. Further, traverse along slabs to the front rocks of the first gendarme on the right for 120 m. Here, at its foot, near a rocky tooth, is the first control point. The route continues along a small ledge and a ridge to an icy couloir. Having ascended along it for 80 m alongside a steep rocky wall on the left, exit onto a small shoulder (piton belay), then to the base of a rocky couloir covered with wall ice (piton belay for 30 m). Beyond the couloir:

• ascend along a steep snowy scree on the left with a height gain over 100–120 m;
• then ascend along a steep icy couloir to the ridge.

Fig. 45a

Peak Legostaeva (4392 m)

Ascent via the southern ridge — beyond category difficulty (Fig. 7)

The peak, named after one of the first Kazakhstani alpinists Legostaev, is located in the upper reaches of the left tributary of the Ozernaia River, in the cirque of the Cherny Glacier. A small spur extends south from the summit, on the western slope of which there is a hanging glacier of the same name. Fig. 7 It is convenient to organize the initial bivouac at Ozerny Pass. Descend into the Almaty River valley and, bypassing a series of rocky ridges, reach

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.