Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Bodkhona, 5138 m, via the left part of the western wall (A. Moshnikov's route, 2nd ascent)
4. Difficulty category: 6A
5. Height difference: 1100 m (wall section — 700 m) Length: 1900 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 70 °
6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | placements | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :------: | :-: |

Photo 1. View of Severnaia Matcha and Yuzhnaia Matcha from the upper reaches of the Zeravshan glacier.

Description of the ascent route to the summit Severnaia Matcha 4500 m via the southern edge (first ascent)

Group composition:

1. Rudnev V. S. — leader.
2. Melnikova R. N.
3. Zhgilev A. V.
4. Pinaev V. S. The Matcha peak 4500 m is located in the upper reaches of the Zeravshan glacier (Pamiro-Alai) in the Turkestan Range, north of the eponymous pass, and is actually two peaks, conditionally named Severnaia Matcha and Yuzhnaia Matcha (see photo 1), separated by a wide snow col. A wide snow couloir descends from the col to the glacier, making an ascent possible. The height of Severnaia Matcha, the higher of the two peaks, is determined with an accuracy of ±30 m. The absence of a cairn and other signs of human presence on the northern peak allows us to classify this ascent as a first ascent. The group of Arzamas 16, consisting of: Rudnev V. S. — leader, Melnikova R. N., Zhgilev A. V., Pinaev V. S. — members, made the first ascent to the peak Severnaia Matcha via the southern edge on July 18, 1969. The group left the base camp at the Matcha pass at 3:00, reached the summit at 8:00, and returned to the bivouac at 10:30 on the same day.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — combined
2. Area — Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge area, Ashat gorge
3. Peak Sochi 2014, 4569 m, via the E slope
4. Proposed category — 1B first ascent
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 669 m.
   • total length — 2200 m.
   • length of sections: cat. diff. 2 — 300 m
   • average slope steepness — 45°.

Report

on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to p. Vostochny 3361 m via the Balazin V.V. route, 6A category of difficulty.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tsagan-Shibetu ridge (Tuva Republic), 9.8
2. Peak — Vostochny, 3361 m, center of the N wall.
3. Category of difficulty — 6A.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 570 m, total length — 700 m; length of sections:
   • 6th category of difficulty — 310 m

ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM FEDERATION

St. Petersburg High-Altitude Climbing Cup 2013

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO LHOTSE MAIN (8516 m) VIA THE NORTHWEST FACE COULoir, 5B category

St. Petersburg Team

Team Captain: Viktor Aleksandrovich Koval Team Coaches:

• Tatyana Ivanovna Timoshenko
• Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov

Ascent Passport

1. Himalayas, section 10.1 of the mountain route classifier

Passport

I. Class of ascents — high-altitude technical 2. Region — Himalayas 3. Peak MAKALU (8463 m) via NW ridge, combined route 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B 5. Elevation gain: 2663 m (5800–8463 m), distance — 6200 m Distance of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 900 m Average steepness — 35° 6. Pitons driven: rock 43, chocks 52, ice screws 18, snow stakes 12

Ascent Passport

1. Category — High-altitude technical
2. Himalayas, Barun river gorge
3. Makalu (8463 m) via Northwest Ridge
4. Proposed category: 6A
5. Elevation gain: 2663 m; Distance: 7950 m. Average slope: main part of the route (above bergschrund) — 27°, entire route — 20° | 6. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | snow | | :----------------: | :--: | :----: | :--: | :--: | | 15 | 20 | 30 | 12 | 0 |

Passport

1. High-altitude class.
2. Central Himalayas, Main Himalayan Range.
3. Makalu Peak (8463 m) via the West Face.
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 2663 m; route length: 3920 m. Length of sections:

• 5th category of difficulty — 530 m;
• 6th category of difficulty — 640 m. Average steepness:

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP

in the high-altitude class

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO MANASLU PEAK (8163) FROM THE NORTH ("CLASSIC") SNOW-ICE ROUTE, CATEGORY 5A DIFFICULTY, BY THE "FA LENOBLASTI" TEAM FROM SEPTEMBER 23, 2023 TO SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Kruglov Oleg Sergeevich, 1st sports rank, Cherdantsev Alexey Igorevich, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — high-altitude technical.
2. Central Himalayas.
3. Shishapangma, 8012 m, via North face, classic route.
4. 5th category of difficulty.
5. Pitons used: rock — none; закладок — none; ice — none; шлямбурных — none.
6. Climbing hours: 20 and days — 4.
7. Night bivouacs: 1st at 6500 m; 2nd — 7000 m; 3rd — 7400 m.
8. Leader: Svergun Igor Nikolaevich, Master of Sports of International Class, Kharkov, 26-a, 23 Avgusta st., apt. 73.