. v. Suaryk (3B), traverse, sk, 3B cat. sl., route by V. Lazebny, 54 The path from the Adal-Su gorge by car to the v. V. Baksan. From the Kyrtyk river valley to the abandoned kosh at the confluence of the Zugull river and the Kyrtyk river. After fording the Zugull river past the kosh, we ascend to the right (orographic) slope of the Zugull river and traverse it at a height of 800–1000 m. From the mouth of the Zugulla, we ford it to the left bank, move along a faintly marked trail above the river to the bivouac site — 1.5–2 km. The bivouac is located under a huge talus descending from the Suaryk peak. The bivouac site is noticeable by a large limestone fragment, on top of which a tourist stone indicator (tur) is built. The path from v. V. Baksan takes 5–6 hours. From the overnight stay, the path goes along the talus (keeping to the left side) and leads under the walls of v. Suaryk.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ① Class. 5А+1 protocol No. 3 dated 22/XI–46 123 TOURIST CLUB READING ROOM No. 797

RECORD TRAVERSE

PTYSH—DJUGUTURLUCHAT

250 m up to the saddle of the Western ridge of the Tichtengen summit. From the Kitlod glacier - about 1 hour. The approach from the Chegem tourist base to the saddle of the Western ridge is carried out from the Kulak glacier. The path to the upper plateau of this glacier is described in route 233. From the upper plateau along a steep ice-snow slope with a bergschrund in the lower part - a simple ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge. On the saddle (when ascending from the Kitlod glacier) turn right and ascend along a simple snow-covered rocky Western ridge. Bypass the ridge's gendarme by traversing 40-45 m to the right along steep rocks of medium difficulty.

Dumala-Tau Zugan-Tau Koysa-Tau 4176 m Druzhba – Gidan. Category 4B, rocky traverse. 37 SECOND PART OF THE Druzba - Gidan Tau TRAVERSE. PART OF THE RIDGE. FROM Druzba PEAK TO GIDAN TAU. 1969.

REPORT

on the Dykhtau – Koshtan traverse of 6A category of complexity by the team from St. Petersburg from 30.08.2020 to 5.09.2020 2020

I. Climbing Report

Traversing p. Akritov (3705 m) — p. Agibalova (3705 m) from E.

Caucasus, Sugansky ridge

Strebejev V.N.

July 20, 2002

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Caucasus, Digoria, Sugansky ridge
3. Traversing p. Akritov (p. 3705 m, E) — p. Agibalova (p. 3705 m, W), from E.
4. Suggested — 3B cat. diff. rock
5. Height difference 900 m, length 1150 m.

Mukhol — Komsomol Ukrainy

In 1964, V. Shabokhin, L. Artyushenko, A. Zeidler, and V. Samoylenko traversed the ridge from Mukhol to Komsomol Ukrainy from July 17 to 21, bypassing the rocky massif of Glavnaya Izmaitsy from the east. No other ascents to the peaks of this section of the ridge were made. 55. Mukhol — Komsomol Ukrainy (combined route by V. Shabokhin, 4B category of difficulty, Fig. 2, 15). Fig. 15. From the initial bivouac on the right bank of the Rtsyvashki River (group of 4–8 people), cross the river and ascend along the bank of the stream in the lateral gorge to the tongue of the Severny Rtsyvashki Glacier, which descends from the saddle of the Sugansky Ridge between the peaks of Mukhol to the right and Severny Izmaitsy to the left. Without reaching the glacier, turn right. Then, along simple, gently sloping, gradually increasing in steepness, heavily destroyed rocks and scree of the second (counting from the base of the Eastern ridge of Mukhol peak) couloir, ascend 600–650 m to the saddle of the Eastern ridge of Mukhol. On the saddle, turn left and:

• along simple, steep, местами strongly destroyed rocks of the Eastern ridge or along the ledges on its right side,
• pass the simple gendarme head-on,

Fig. 6 19. Nakhshbita Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge from the south (A. Chernyaev's combined route, category III, fig. 6). The path from the "Nakhshbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the bivouac on the saddle of the Nakhshbita massif is described in route 18. From the site, traverse 120 meters along the snowy ridge (cornice) to the saddle and reach the Southwest Ridge of Glavnaya Nakhshbita. Ascend 70–80 meters along the snow-covered, possibly icy, moderately difficult rocks of the Southwest Ridge to a rocky outcrop. Bypass the outcrop:

• Traverse 120–140 meters to the right along a steep ice-snow slope along the rocks (piton belay) on the right side of the ridge. Then:
• Turn left.
• Ascend along the snow-covered rocks, then along a steep ice-snow slope (belaying) to the Southwest Ridge.