WORLD CUP HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS Report of the national team of the Republic of Kazakhstan on the ascent of Mramornaya стена peak via the buttress of the North face, cat. dif. 5A

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Bayankol, at the junction of the Meridionalny and Sarydzhas ridges,
2. Name of the peak, route name: Mramornaya стена via the buttress of the North face
3. Cat. dif.: 5A
4. Route type: Combined
5. Height difference of the route: 2500 m
   Route length: 5000 m

Passport

1. Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge.
2. Peak Marmorная стена (6350 m), via the right Western counterfort of the North-West ridge.
3. Category 5A (third ascent).
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 2650 m; route length — 4600 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty: 900 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 40° (4200 m – 6100 m); — whole route — 37° (3700 m – 6350 m).
6. Pitons left on the route: 4; including "drills": 1. Pitons used on the route: 10; including "drills": 8.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Tian Shan, Meridionalny Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pogrebetsky Peak, western summit, 6487 m, via the western wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2070 m; section lengths:
   • cat. diff. 5 — 150 m,
   • cat. diff. 6 — 300 m; average steepness of the rock part of the route — 63°, including the wall — 70°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 141, ice — 30, bolted — none; for creating intermediate protection: rock — 9, ice — 4, bolted — none.

Ii a c ii o p t

ascent made at the USSR Climbing Championship in 1972 Climbing category — high-altitude technical Climbing region — Central Tien-Shan Ascent route with indicated peaks and their elevations:

• Peak 160th Anniversary of RСТО, Central summit, 6350 m
• Western ridge Ascent characteristics:
• elevation gain — 2150 m
• average steepness — 55°

4500 м — black 38.

General information

The unnamed peak "4500" is located at the northern end of the Bayankol ridge, which branches off the Terskey Alatau ridge in an easterly direction. This ridge bounds the western Bayankol glacier to the north. The upper part of the peak is snowy and has a plateau-like shape. To the south of the summit, a rocky ridge runs to the "Trenirovochny" peak (4302 m), to the north the ridge descends to a pass, before which there is a 40–45 m "gendarme". To the east, towards the Sary-Kainou river, the peak drops with a 350–400 m slope of shattered rocks.

Approaches to the summit

From Almaty to the Bayankol glacier area, the path initially follows the Almaty — Narynkol highway, passing through the settlements of Talgar, Issyk, Turgen, Chilik, Kegen, Sarydzhas, Tekes. The distance from Almaty to the settlement of Tekes is 310 km, and further from Tekes to the mountains stretches a dirt road. If the road is in good condition, it is possible to drive to the village of Dzharculak, located in the upper part of the Bayankol river valley (7 km) at an altitude of 3000 m. From the abandoned village of Dzharculak, there are another 12–14 km of trail, which follows the bank of the Sary-Kainou river. Here, in the upper reaches of this main tributary of Bayankol (right side), a base camp is set up. At a distance of 1–2 km from the glacier, when choosing a campsite, one should be mindful of frequent rockfalls from the nearby destroyed slopes.

Route description

Ascent Passport

2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge.
3. Peak Zvezdny 4780 m (approximately via NW ridge). First ascent.
4. Category 4A difficulty.
5. Height difference — 800 m. Section 5 — 40 m. Average slope 45°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 35 ice — 10
7. Ascent 14 hours.
8. Overnight on the pre-summit ridge. On fine rubble.
9. Leader — Perlov Mikhail Semenovich, 2nd sports category.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Alay range — 5.1
3. Peak, its height, route — Main Sauk-Dzhaylyau via Central peak with ascent to Central peak via northern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6th cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference:
   • to Central peak — 1505 m
   • to Main peak — 198 m Total height difference of wall section — 1703 m

«Technical Class»

Report

URAL MILITARY DISTRICT TEAM'S ASCENT OF PIK AYDAREK (5127 m) VIA THE NORTH FACE (GINZBURG'S ROUTE) - THIRD ASCENT

The representative of the Leningrad team, before our departure on the route, remarked that the passage of the declared path does not solve the main problem of the wall — passage through the center via the hanging glacier. In our opinion, this "problem" does not exist, as during our stay in the base camp and passage of the qualifying route, the problematic route was regularly "hit" by ice and snow avalanches of varying power, but always sufficient for the "problem" to remain a problem. One of the main characteristics of the object of ascent is the length of possible ascent routes from the Tamykul gorge. 3 km would be the minimum length of the path if it were possible to lay it through hanging glaciers from the foot of the mountain straight up to the summit. In this regard, when ascending Tamykul, athletes pass through a number of climatic zones. At the same time:

• at the bottom, during the hours when the wall is lit by the sun, the heat is suffocating;
• at the top, only down-filled equipment, windproof clothing, and continuous movement help to combat the piercing cold wind. Such is the multifaceted nature of the mountain, making the ascent to its summit difficult but interesting.

2. Climbing Conditions in the Area

2.1. Exploration of the Area

The Tamdykul peak area is one of the least explored by climbers. This is evident from the fact that this highest peak in the Alay Range is not even mentioned in domestic mountaineering publications, nor is the adjacent massif of peak 5529 to the east. This is partly explained by the fact that:

• from the north, it takes several days of travel to see the alluring walls of these peaks;
• from the south, where the mountain can be reached in 2 days with a load and in 1 day without, these peaks do not appear as attractive to climbers, who see them from a helicopter on their way to more appealing giants of the Academy of Sciences Range.

Russian Alpine Championship 2019 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents

Report

on the ascent to Zamin-Karor 1st Western peak 4303 m via the northwestern wall, 6A category of complexity (O. Kapitanova), made by the team from the Republic of Tatarstan from August 1 to August 4, 2019. Kazan, 2019

Ascent Passport