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Route Description: Последний штрих
Description of the new route "Последний штрих" (5B) on Sokolel, climbed in April, with a detailed description of sections and necessary equipment.
"The Final Stroke" (5b).
We made the first attempt to climb the route with Max Polyakov in winter 2009, but various reasons prevented us from completing it. We removed the ropes and left. Now, on April 1 and 2, Sanya Khomenko and I finished the route.
Description by sections: the route starts from the same ledge as "Vosemorka", "Pesnya", "Khokhol cherez zerkala", and goes between "Pesnya" and "Khokhol". The beginning is easy to read; there is a bolt 8 meters above the ledge.
Sokol, "The Final Stroke" route (5B). The route line is highlighted in blue. High-resolution photo
0–1 A small approach, then onto the bolts to a piton, from it up to the right to a crack with grass. Up through a series of cracks, sometimes on a slab. Belay station on a bolt and a hook. 40 m, A3.
From the station, it's recommended to climb to the next bolt without accepting the belay to reduce the fall factor.
1–2 Up to the right on a slab with cavities (anchors, skyhooks), get over the bend, then on a more gentle slab to the station. There's a bolt. 35 m, VI, A3.
2–3 From the station, up to the left through an overgrown crack for about 10 meters, then ITO on the slab in the direction up to the left to a sloping ledge. On it, a station — a bolt and an anchor. 40 m, VI, A3.
3–4 From the station, 4 meters up to the left, then up on the slab to a small ledge, up to the right to the second ledge. From its left part, up through a series of cracks. Station on a bolt. 35 m, VI, A3.
4–5 From the station, up to the left, then up into an internal corner formed by the edge of a large flake and a wall. Up the corner, then up to the right under a small cornice. Through the cornice up to the right, then traverse to the right onto a ledge. Station on a bolt and a hook. 35 m, V, A3.
Route Description: Песня
The "Song" route (5B cat., 188 m, 5 ropes) to the Sokol summit in Crimea, first ascent by A. Kruglenko and A. Paksyutkin in 2007.
Sokol. "Pesnya" (Lebedinaya pesnya / Swan Song) route 5B (V+ A2 188 m), 5 pitches.
First ascent: A. Kruglenko (Feodosiya) — A. Paksyutkin (Simferopol), 2007.
The start of the route is from the large starting ledge as described for routes №31–38 (according to the guidebook) of Sector II.
Routes of the Central Sector of Sokol
Technical description of the route:
- R0–R1: (48 m, V+ A1+) From the starting ledge, the first few meters follow the bolts of the "Vos'merka / Eight" route, then move up, bypassing the bulge shaped like an "eight" on the right. Above the bulge, use the corners and cracks to reach a plate and follow it to an inclined, overgrown corner (anchors, pitons, "carrot" left by the authors). Set up a belay station in the corner on your own protection points.
- R1–R2: (45 m, V+ A2) Move up through the plate to the base of an overgrown crack, then up the crack for 18 m. From here, move left "to 11 o'clock" across the plate to a small ledge. There is little relief for protection. Protection:
Route Description: Рыжий карниз
Description of the "Ryжий карниз" (Red Cornice) route, category 5B difficulty level, on Sokol mountain in Crimea, including details of the passage and equipment recommendations.
Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ryžiĭ karniz" (Red Cornice) route, 5B. (author: Lishaev Yu. "Fantik"), cat. difficulty 5B
The route has a variation — the first one and a half ropes follow the "Vos'merka" (Eight) route, and then a transition via bolts to the third rope of the "Bol'shoĭ karniz" (Big Cornice).
Approaching the route "Ryžiĭ karniz" route R0–R1: 50–55 m 6B, first 12 m up a diagonal crack to the right with self-belay, then a delicate traverse to the right onto a resonant "nashlyopka" (overhanging rock formation), then via bolts, belay station on a ledge on one bolt and one piton.
R1–R2: 45 m 5c+, move up and left towards a crack, protection mostly pitons (watch out for moss!), belay station on two bolts in a corner.
R2–R3: 40 m 6a+ (sometimes A1), protection on pitons and bolts, belay station under a large cornice on a bolt? (either one or two).
"Ryžiĭ karniz" route (sections R2–R3 and R3–R4)
"Ryžiĭ karniz" route (sections R2–R3 and R3–R4) R3–R4: 25–30 m 6b+ (or A2–), protection on large nuts and bolts, belay station on a plateau on a small tree.
Recommended equipment:
- 50 m rope
Route Description: Дружба
The "Druzhba" Route, 6A VI A3, on the wall of the Treugolnik massif is 535 m long, has 13 pitches, and takes 14–16 hours to complete.
Triangle — 7. "Druzhba"
Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6А VI A3 Authors: A. Lavrinenko, T. Tsushko,
A. Khomenko (Odessa)
Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 13 Length: 535 m Time to complete: 14–16 hours Route description: A long, laborious line in the central part of the wall. Interesting and varied climbing. There are sections of destroyed rocks, which is typical for the entire Triangle.
From the bivouac, approach the wall and move left for 70 m. The starting point of the route is marked by the letter "Д" on the wall.
R0–R1 40 m. Up a crack to a ledge with a small tree. Two meters to the left of the tree:
- under the eaves, there's a bolt (hard to see);
- under the eaves, a difficult traverse to the right into a washed-out groove;
- up the groove for 10 m to a small ledge, there's a bolt.
Route Description: По левой стороне Канта
Description of the route "On the left side of Kant" category 4B complexity with details of passage and organization of stations.
"To the left of Kant" 4B
The beginning — 3 ropes are shared with KPK and 4A "To the left of the Green corner" — stations are drilled,
because in these areas it is possible to accumulate several teams.
R4–R5 — the station was on a small tree, inconvenient. Hammered in 2 hammers.
R5–R6 — added a hanger to the one that was already there.
R6–R7 — near a tree, made a station on a ledge with 2 hangers.
The route further leads to KPK.
Route Description: По левой грани Зеленого угла
A new route on the left face of the "Green corner" on Forosskiy Kant, complexity category 5B, climbed in winter by Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev.
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
Forosskiy kant. Routes of the "Green corner"
At the end of January, we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) climbed a new route in
the left part of the Forosskiy kant, along the left edge of the "Green corner". The route looks
so logical that it's surprising it wasn't climbed earlier. In the very corner, human tracks
are visible, but whether it was completed to the top - I don't know; at least, I saw 2 rappel
loops. The route starts at the same point as the left variant of the Kant, and goes left;
the 2-grade route goes even further left.
125 ± 2 m, 5B, TD "along the left edge" Pugachev, Lavrinenko 35A TD - Timofeev's route
Route Description: Кант по Канту, правый
The route is of the 5th category of difficulty along the western counterfort (Kant) on the right, length is 320 m, passage time is 4-5 hours.
Via the Western Counterfort (Kant) on the right, 5a (variant 5b) *
The route goes via the Western counterfort (Kant). Its beginning is on the right side of the counterfort base, 20 m to the right of the grotto (R0: 150 m, 20–300, no technical difficulty). On the R1–R3 section, there is challenging climbing along a 70-meter large cleft:
- R1–R3: 70 m, 85°, V+ On the R3–R4 section — upwards and leftwards along rocks of medium difficulty to the "Lapa" flake (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–600, III). On the R4–R5 section — upwards to "Lapa" from the left. First, through the cleft between "Lapa" and the wall. In the upper part, the cleft turns into a chimney (R4–R5: 40 m, 85°,
Route Description: Перья
Route of the 5th category of complexity via the South-Eastern wall and Western counterfort with a detailed description of the ascent stages and technical characteristics.
On the left side of the southeast wall and the western counterfort (Feathers), 5a *)
The route starts 60 m to the right of the western counterfort and passes:
- in the lower part — along a steep and smooth wall;
- in the upper part — along the western counterfort (Edge), transitioning to it through a chain of several spalls, named Feathers due to their external resemblance. (R0: 200 m, 20–30, no rope). On the section R1–R3 — upwards through a narrow vertical gap. Climbing is challenging (R1–R3: 70 m, 80°, V+). On the section R3–R4 — left and upwards first along the wall, and then 10 m along a chimney formed by the lower spall of the Feather to a shelf with a tree (R3–R4: 30 m, 75°,
Route Description: Перья
Updated information on the state of the "Feathers" 5A route on Forosskiy Kant, including a description of changes in belay stations and equipment.
Author: Aleksandra Lavrinenko, Odessa
Changes on Forosskiy Kant
On Per'ya route 5A (left variant):
1st rope - there were 8 old pitons, half of them had torn off ears. 3 new bolts were driven in the right places. A station was made on 2 × bolts, a ledge near a tree. 2nd rope - a station was drilled on a ledge near a tree. 3rd rope - a piton was replaced at the station, another one was added. 4th rope - pitons were replaced, 3 were driven instead of 4. A station was drilled near a small pine (previously it was on a pine). Further the route goes out to the kant, there are stations.
Route Description: Семерка
Description of the "Semerka" route and its "Semerka left" variation on the south-eastern wall of Forosskiy Kant with a detailed analysis of the stages and technical difficulties.
Through the center of the southeastern wall via the cornice Semerka (Semerka), 5a (route by P. Denisenko, 1976), variant by V. Shushlyapin "Semerka on the left", 5B *)
The route goes through the center of the southeastern wall via a cornice, which resembles a seven in its shape. A landmark for its beginning can be a large juniper bush growing in the lower part of the wall.
From the road near the alpinist parking under Forosskiy Kant, move up and left, first along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30°, category I).
On the section R1–R2 — up 30 m to a wild strawberry tree (Bestydnitsa) (R1–R2: 30 m, 80°, IV).
On the section R2–R3 — first traverse 10 m left to a crevice, and then up along a vaguely expressed internal corner. Having overcome a short overhanging wall, move towards the juniper bush (R2–R3: 40 m, 80°, V).
On the section R3–R4 — first left and up 25 m along a chip to a dry tree on a ledge. Above the ledge is an overhanging wall. It is passed first on the left through a crevice, and then — along the internal corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, V+).
On the section R4–R5 — first up and right along the internal corner to a green bush located to the left of the lower part of the Semerka cornice. Then move to the upper corner of the cornice (R4–R5: 40 m, 80°, V).
On the section R5–R6 — first pass the cornice straight up. Then traverse right 8 m along a ledge to a vertical internal corner. Up along the corner to a horizontal ledge, and then traverse 10 m left (R5–R6: 40 m, 80°, V).
On the section R6–R7 — up along smooth inclined slabs to a ledge (R6–R7: 40 m, 75°, IV).