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Ascent to the summit of Kirpich via the West Face, category 5B, climbed by the LOS DSO "Trud" group in 1968.

1. Group Composition

The ascent was made by the LOS DSO "TRUD" team in the following composition:

  1. Manoilov Yu.S. — leader, CMS
  2. Antipenko E.S. — participant, CMS
  3. Antonovsky I.D. — participant, CMS
  4. Vasiliev B.P. — participant, CMS
  5. Solonnikov Vikt.A. — participant, MS This composition was planned according to the application, and during preparation and ascent, it remained unchanged.

V. Kirpich

![img-0.jpeg](https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg "width":1401,"height":1923,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg","id":64745582)

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Description of the first and second ascents of a Category 5B route through the center of the bastion on the West Wall of Erydag in winter conditions, with detailed information on tactics and technical details of the ascent.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Class of winter ascents.
  2. Region 2.10 Mountains of Dagestan.
  3. Erydag, 3925 m, via the center of the bastion on the West wall, first ascent, rock route.
  4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall section — 450 m, total — 825 m, length of the wall section — 640 m, total — 2140 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 325 m, 6th category of difficulty — 80 m, average steepness of the route — 70 degrees.
  6. Equipment used on the route:
    • rock pitons: 88/15
    • chocks: 40/10
    • friends: 7/5
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Ascent route description to the summit of Brin-dag (3925 m) via the Right "Cold Corner" of the North-West wall, 6A difficulty grade, first ascent.

Scheme of the Yerydag mountain node

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ASCENT CERTIFICATE

  1. Technical category.
  2. Eastern Caucasus, Dagestan, Chekh-чай gorge.
  3. Yery-dag mountain (3925 m) via the Right "cold corner" of the North-West wall.
  4. Proposed 6A category of complexity, first ascent.
  5. Length of sections: 5 category of complexity — 560 m, 6 category of complexity — 115 m. Average steepness (up to the plateau) — 76 °.
  6. Pitons hammered:
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Hitsan-khokh via the northwest ridge spur, category 4B difficulty, with a detailed description of the route and its passage.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Khitsan-khokh via the buttress of the NW ridge, approximately category 4B difficulty of the team from the "Tsey" alpine camp 300, 745, M V 155, 300, 201 60°, 54 rock pitons, 55 chocks, 8 hours total time Team leader V.A. Karabash Team coach V.S. Neborak "Tsey" Alpine Camp — 1984 Photo 2. Profile of the buttress from the left. Lower part. Taken on August 5, 1984, from point #2, ~300 m, T-43, P = 40 mm

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Description of the ascent route to Yarydag I-West (4110 m) peak via the north-west wall, rated as category 5B-6.

56 p/p order No.498 28.10.1980 ASCENT PASSPORT

  1. Type of ascent — Rock climb.
  2. Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, Yarydag ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Yarydag I West, 4110 m, via the right inner corner of the northwest face.
  4. Difficulty category — 5B–6.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Elevation gain — 880 m
    • Average steepness of the face — 80°
    • Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 723 m.
  6. Pitons used:
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Ascent report on Yarydag peak via the center of the West face through the "feathers" rated 5B.

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF YARIDAG PEAK (3925 m) VIA THE CENTER OF THE WESTERN WALL THROUGH THE "FEATHERS" BY THE TEAM FROM KALUGA REGIONAL SPORTS COMMITTEE

Team Leader: Filonov Yu.V. Coach: Chernov L.A. Kaluga, Lenin St., 5, Kaluga Regional Sports Committee Team Leader: Filonov Yuri Vladimirovich, Obninsk, Kaluga region, Kurchatov St., 23, apt. 116. Tel.: work 2-91-52, home 2-91-04. Coach: Chernov Lionel Alexandrovich, Obninsk, Kaluga region, Lermontov Lane, 3, apt. 16. Tel.: work 2-89-67, home 9-83-52. Elevation data was determined using available copies of reports on ascents to Yaridag peak by teams led by Eifmov, Shchedrin, and Polyakov, as well as visually.

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Description of a new 3A rock climbing route on the left side of the North face of Khitsan peak (3600 m) in the Tsey gorge, Caucasus.

Ascent Certificate

  1. Rock class.
  2. Caucasus, Tsey gorge.
  3. Hitsan (3600 m), via the left part of the North face.
  4. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
  5. Route elevation gain 500 m; route length 800 m. Elevation gain of the wall section 300 m; wall section length 360 m; average steepness of the wall section 60°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock, nuts, bolted 12/0 23/0 0/0
  7. Team's travel time 8 hours and days – 1.
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Description of the first ascent via the SW wall of Taymazi Glavnaya peak (3803 m) in the Digor region of the Central Caucasus, category of difficulty 5A.

  1. Area: Central Caucasus, Digor district, Tana-Don gorge. Main Caucasian Range. Category according to CMGS - 2.6.
  2. Tajmazi Glavnaya peak, 3803 m, via SW wall.
  3. Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route character - combined.
  5. Height difference of the route: – from the saddle at the start of the route to the ridge - 250 m (by altimeter); – from the ridge - 180 m Route length along the wall - 579 m. Section lengths:
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Climbing certificate for the ascent to Yerydag summit via Samoded route through the "feathers" on the Western wall (5B, 880 m, 1930 m) in Chekhchay gorge, Dagestan.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing class — rock (within the framework of the winter class of the Russian Championship)
  2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Chekhychay gorge, Dagestan
  3. Erydag (3925 m) via the center of the Western wall through the "feathers" (Samoded route)
  4. Complexity category — 5B
  5. Height difference: — 880 m
    • of which on the wall part of the route — 680 m
    • total route length — 1930 m
    • wall section length — 930 m
    • of which 5th cat. diff. — 525 m
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Description of the first ascent of 5B category route through the center of the Western wall of the Yarydag peak via "feathers" in the Caucasus in 1984.

PASSPORT

I. Category of first ascents 2. Caucasus, Eastern, Yarydag 3. Peak Yarydag, through the center of the Western wall via "feathers" 4. Assumed to be 5B category difficulty (first ascent) 5. Elevation difference of the wall part of the route — 530 m, length of the wall part of the route — 740 m (including traverses). Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°, including 6 category difficulty — 92° (95 m)

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