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Ascent to Mt. Aktru via the eastern wall (4A cat. of difficulty) through rocky islands and icy slopes, route description and key obstacles.

в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959) Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge. Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:

  • Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
  • Time to cross the icefall — 1 h. Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру. Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h. The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.
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A description of the ascent route to the summit, including photographs and details of the passage of a challenging alpine path.

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Description of the first ascent of the peak Barnaulskikh Alpinistov in Altai via a Category IIIB route.

V. Barnulskikh alpinistov Vinnikov E.A. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge 1.2.80

Passport

  1. Class: first ascent
  2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge
  3. V. Barnulskikh alpinistov, category 3B
  4. Proposed category 3B first ascent
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Description of the traverse of Glaciolog and Turist peaks (Cat. 2A) in Altai with route details and technical characteristics.

  1. Region: Altai. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge.
  2. Peak: Glyaciolog – Turist traverse
  3. Category: 2A category
  4. Route type: rocky
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 750 m Route length — 2400 m Average slope — 35°
  6. Duration: 11 hours
  7. Leader:
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Description of the climbing route to Peak L. N. Gumilev (approx. 3700 m) in the North-Chuya Range of Altai with a difficulty category of 3B.

Ascent Passport

Region — Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge. Peak — L. N. Gumilev Peak, approx. 3700 m. Assumed category of difficulty — 3B. Height difference — 850 m. Route length — 1250 m. Average slope — 38°. Climbing hours — 9–10.

Group Composition

Turkevmch M. M. — Master of Sports of Russia, leader.

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Ascent to the summit Double (3480 m) via the northern ridge, 2A category of difficulty, Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge.

10 173 2А

  1. Class - first ascent.
  2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
  3. V. Dvoynaya (C) via the northern ridge.
  4. Proposed 2A cat. difficulty (first ascent).
  5. Height 3480 m, elevation gain 540 m, length 1250 m, average slope 25 °.
  6. 11 hours of climbing time (from camp to camp).
  7. Overnight stays - no need.
  8. In a team of two: Drakin A. V., CMS; Okhremenko I. N., 1st sports category.
  9. Coach Drakin A. V., 1st category No. 68.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of P. Zelinsky (3500 m) in the Central Altai along a rocky route of 3B category of difficulty.

Ascents 2428

  1. Class of Ascent: Rocky.
  2. Area of Ascent, ridge: Central Altai. North-Tuy­sky Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, route of Ascent: **P. Zelinsky 3500 m northern ridge.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B.
  5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference: 1000 m. Length of sections: 5–6 c.t.: 200 m. Average steepness: 50-60%.
  6. Number of piton drivenforbelay: Rock.
  7. Number of travel hours:16–17 hrs.
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Description of the first ascent route to **Kapitsa P.L. Peak** (3720 m) in Altai, complexity category - 3, combined route with an altitude difference of 700 m.

Passport

  1. Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, KMGV section number — 1.2.
  2. Summit — Pik Kapitsy P.L. (3720 m), category 3B.
  3. Proposed category — 3A, first ascent.
  4. Route type — combined.
  5. Height difference 700 m (by altimeter). Route length m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty m, VI category of difficulty m. Average slope: main part of the route — degrees, whole route — degrees.
  6. Approach to the key point in crampons, belay through rock formations, 1 rock anchor hammered.
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Description of the ascent made by the Rubtsovsk Sports Committee team to the summit of Karagem (3) via the north wall, a category 5B climb, in the North-Chuya range of Altai.

Passport

  1. Class of technical ascents.
  2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karagem gorge.
  3. Karagem peak (3) via the northern wall.
  4. 5B category of difficulty.
  5. Elevation gain — 1250 m, length — 1450 m, average steepness — 54°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock — , ice — 8, chocks — 136.
  7. Climbing hours: 29 hours, 2 days.
  8. Overnight stay on a platform made on the ridge.
  9. Leader: Sergeev Viktor Platonovich — Master of Sports, 658218, Altai Krai, Rubtsovsk, 64-14 Svetlova St.
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Description of a category 2B route to the summit of Karatash via the South-Eastern slope of the North-Eastern ridge in the Severo-Chuysky ridge in Altai.

Passport

  1. Rock climbing route.
  2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
  3. Karatash via the SE slope of the NE ridge.
  4. Category 2B proposed (the route has been climbed several times before).
  5. Elevation gain 480 m, length 1360 m.
  6. No pitons used.
  7. Moving time 10 hours from base camp to base camp.
  8. No overnight stays required.
  9. Drakin A.V. CMS
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