10. Sandro Glavnaya via the Southern spur of the Eastern ridge (rock route, category 2A, Fig. 2, 4). From the base camp (point 1), traverse right along the southern grassy and talus slopes to reach a broad talus saddle of the Lekchumsky ridge and ascend to the saddle of the Southern spur of Sandro Glavnaya's Eastern ridge via easy, crumbling rocks. 1–1.5 hours from the base camp. Turn left onto the saddle and approach the Big Gendarme via simple, crumbling rocks on the right side of the Southern spur, featuring several easy 2–3-meter walls. Bypass the Gendarme on the left, descending through a narrow couloir and exiting onto a narrow gap via talus. From the gap, ascend 15–18 meters up steep rocks to the right (belay). Then, ascend simple rocks up and left to a broad gap beneath the ascent of the southern slope of Sandro Glavnaya's Eastern ridge. From the gap (crux, loose rocks, pitons), ascend 12–15 meters up the rocks of the ascent to a ledge beneath a vertical wall. Traverse right along the ledge (belay) to bypass the wall, then ascend easy rocks and talus to reach a broad saddle between Sandro and SamertsKhle peaks (large cairn). 2–2.5 hours from the base camp.

Anniversary Climbing Event on the Central Caucasus, dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Victory

1995

Rock Climbing Category

Report

• On the first ascent to the summit of Fytargin, 4184 m, via the south-eastern counterfort
• Of the southern spur, approximately 4B category of difficulty, by a sports group from Dnipropetrovsk
• August 14, 1995 Leader: Banya A.V.

Ascent Log

(Third Ascent)

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range from Ktlod Pass to Gezhevtsek Pass.
3. Ascent route — Tsurungal via the southeast wall (4222 m) – Central Nезнакомка (4100 m) – Bolshaya Nезнакомка (4200 m).
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1980 m, length of 5th-6th difficulty sections — 720 m, average steepness (excluding the ridge part) — 65–70°.

ASCENT TO PIK ALESHI DZAPARIDZE “Chornaya Neznakomka” via the southern wall. 79 Pik Aleshi Dzaparidze, 4100 m high, is located in the Main Caucasian Range, between the peaks Tsurungal and Belaya Neznakomka. To the north of the summit lies the cirque of the Ailaminskiy glacier, its slopes covered with ice with occasional outcrops of rocks. To the south, the summit drops almost vertically in a rock wall. From the ridge between the peaks Chornaya and Belaya Neznakomka, a series of almost parallel steep rock buttresses descends. Below them, closer to Belaya Neznakomka, lies the Zes-Lo glacier, from which a long, 100–120 m wide, snow-ice couloir ascends almost parallel to the ridge to Pik A. Dzaparidze, with a slope of 25–30° and a series of deep gullies. A nearly vertical rock rib leading directly to the summit divides this couloir into two branches:

• The left couloir, as you ascend, sharply increases its steepness and ends in a narrow rock couloir with formed ice, leading to the central rib. This couloir is very dangerous due to constant rockfall.
• The right couloir, bypassing the central rib to the right, is located between it and the adjacent ridge buttress and ends under the rocks of the main ridge. Its steepness increases from bottom to top from 45–50° to 75–80°. The couloir is entirely icy, with deep (up to 5 m) gullies. During the day, the couloir is prone to rockfall. The group consisted of three instructors and one participant from the “Ailamf” alpine camp, members of the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the “Trud” sports society. The ascent was made during a reconnaissance trip to the Zes-Lo area to explore the region. The path from the “Ailamf” alpine camp goes down the road through the villages Kurundashi and Tsanya to the trail leading to the Zes-Lo gorge to the village of the same name and further to the river flowing from the glacier,

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent class — rock.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Range south from Kittlod pass to Gezevtsék pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Chyornaya Neznakomka, 4100 m, via the right South counterfort of the Eastern ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1400 m, length of sections with 5th–6th difficulty category — 310 m, average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons hammered in:

Northwest wall of Черной Незнакомки (photo from under the wall) — the route of our team — the route of A. Naumov's group

Fig. 3. 2. Chutkharo Western peak via Western ridge (rocky route, A. Naumova, category III difficulty, fig. 2, 3). At the grassy col (point 1), turn right and ascend a wide grassy slope, talus, and easy rocks to the Western ridge of Chutkharo Western peak, to the right of its first pinnacle. Bypass the pinnacle on the right via easy rocks. Then, proceed along easy rocks and large talus of the Western ridge to approach the second pinnacle, which is bypassed on the left via ledges. Traverse the simple, rocky, and rugged Western ridge, overcoming or bypassing numerous pinnacles, to reach a narrow saddle.

Fig. 3.

5. Chutaro Zapadnaya — Vostochnaya

(a rock route, A. Naumova, 3B cat. diff., fig. 2, 3). From Chutaro Zapadnaya (point 2) descend via a wide easy 100–120-meter rocky Vostochny ridge. Then, bypassing the I and II gendarmes of the saddle from the right along the ledges and easy crumbling rocks, approach the 10–12-meter wall at the base of the Zapadny ridge of Chutaro Tsentralnaya summit. Up the moderately difficult rocks of the wall (piton) straight up. Then ascend 50–60 m traversing steep moderately difficult rocks on the right side of the Zapadny ridge (protection) of Chutaro Tsentralnaya. Then, via talus, bypass the summit tower from the right, exiting onto its Vostochny ridge. Here, turn left and ascend the easy wide 60–80-meter Vostochny ridge to the summit of Chutaro Tsentralnaya. From Zapadnaya — 1–1.5 hours. From Tsentralnaya, descend via the easy rocky Vostochny ridge. Further down the easy ridge, overcoming all low gendarmes in the zone, exit onto the saddle below the Zapadny ridge of Chutaro Vostochnaya. From the saddle, overcoming a 12–15-meter moderately difficult wall (piton) in the zone, ascend the easy 150–200-meter rocky Zapadny ridge to the foot of the ascent of Chutaro Vostochnaya. Up the steep rocks of the 15-meter ascent («live» rocks, protection) to the summit of Chutaro Vostochnaya. From Tsentralnaya — 1–1.5 hours. A descent variation to the saddle is via the ascent route along the Zapadny ridge. From the saddle, descend left (south) initially along the left, then the right side of a wide rocky couloir (rocks, «live» rocks, protection), then via «ram’s foreheads», easy rocks, talus, and grassy slopes to the base camp.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Type of ascent: Rock climbing.
2. Region of ascent: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Lower Svaneti.
3. Peak Sharitaou, 3699 m, Southern ridge, rock climbing.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B.
5. Route characteristics: 300 m elevation gain, average slope 20°.
6. Pitons hammered: 24 rock pitons.
7. Time taken to complete the route: 8 hours.
8. Number of nights stayed: None.
9. Leader of the ascent:

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks