Peak Stazhyorov from Znakchikov Pass, 2A cat. dif.

Approach

From the camp, move up towards the Big Akturu glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "sheepbacks" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Then move along the edge of the glacier. A glaciologists' camp is located on the moraine ridge, and beyond the ridge lies the Blue Lake. It takes 3–4.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the moraine lake, move up towards the Znakchikov Pass. The ascent initially goes along scree or a snowy slope (depending on the season). Time — 1.5–2 hours.

Route

Then ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the summit ridge. Movement:

• initially simultaneous,
• then on steep snow-ice sections — alternating with belay (up to 45°). In the upper part of the slope, it may be necessary to cross a crevasse. Then along the summit ridge reach the summit.

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktuu valley

STUDENTOV Vostochny 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge Proposed:

• Cat. diff. 2A, route No. 64-a
• Route type: combined Note: the height (3745.1) is taken from a published online map at 1:50,000 scale. Elevation gain according to the group's altimeter: 3750–2830 = 920 m. Route length:
• to the pass level — 2700 m (calculated)

Traverse Students - Yunost, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move upstream along the river in the direction of Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash peak, following the riverbed to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1 - 1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazherov peak. The lake is located behind a moraine rampart. There is a glaciologists' camp on the moraine. It takes 2 - 2.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the overnight stay on the moraine lake, move up the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (in rope teams!!!), keeping to the rocky ridge on the right. On the left, the glacier drops off a large rocky step. Along the right, gentle part of the glacier, ascend to the level of the rocky step and cross the glacier in the direction of Maashey pass. The ascent is gentle (crevasses!). Time - 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, the path lies to the right along the ridge in the direction of Students peak:

• At first, the ridge is a simple snowy one.
• Before the peak, there is a Big gendarme in the form of a rocky "saw".
• Movement is alternating, with protection through a ledge.
• The "saw" is the key section of the route.
• After the "saw", a straightforward ridge leads to Students peak. Time - 1.5-2 hours. Descent from Students peak and ascent to Yunost peak takes 25-30 minutes along a simple ridge.

PASSPORT

1. Region — Altai, spurs of the North-Chuya Ridge, Karakabak gorge
2. Peak — Suvorov Generalissimus (3300)
3. Route — via S.slope, Cat.1B diff., first ascent
4. Elevation gain — 400 m Slope gradient 30°
5. Moving hours — 5 from the lakes
6. Group members: Vlasov V.A. — MS Dorfman V.S. — MS

Passport

1. First ascent category.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Mt. Generalissimus Suvorov via south-west ridge.
4. Proposed category 1B difficulty (first ascent).
5. Height 3150 m, elevation gain 480 m, length 1200 m, average slope 22°.
6. Moving time 9 hours (from camp to camp).
7. No overnight stays necessary.
8. Climbing team: Dumayskaya E. L., 1st sports category.

Pik Tamma

Approaches to the summit are possible:

• from the Aktru valley with an ascent to the Maashay pass
• from the Maashay valley with an ascent to the same pass from the east
• along the Maashay ridge, traversing it to the east
• from the south from the Karagem valley The most logical and at the same time simple path to the summit is the path from the Aktru valley, the second in difficulty is the path from the Maashay glacier, the most difficult is the path to the summit from the west along the ridge, as the ascent and traverse of this ridge are difficult. The ascent from the Aktru valley is initially done by the usual route. They go to an overnight stay on the moraine by the lake, then cross the glacier to the first ascent. When reaching the first ascent, they go left, taking direction towards the visible lowering in the South-Aktru ridge — this is the Maashay pass. After passing a bit, another ascent begins with a steepness of about 35° and a height of around 100 m. After passing this ascent, a steady ascent begins with a steepness of up to 25°. Bergschrunds are encountered along the way. The largest one is at the bend at the top, where the slope gradually flattens out and reaches 8–10°. To the right of the pass point, there are rocks with a cairn on them. The time it takes to move from the overnight stay by the lake on the moraine to the pass point is 3–4 hours and strongly depends on the state of the glacier and snow.

V. UPI from the north, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move up the river to the beginning of the B.Aktru glacier (right) and up it to the first step of the icefall, located between the "khitsan" and the slope of v.Kar­atash (link up!). Time 1–1.5 hours. The first stage is overcome between the slopes of the peaks Karatash and the icefall (left along the track). Climb up the snowy slope to the second stage, which is bypassed on the left along the track, next to the rocky ridge of the peak are snowy. Cross the glacier in the direction of the peak UPI (crevasses!). Time 1.5–2 hours. Climb up the snowy-icy slope of the peak UPI to the pre-summit ridge. The ridge is sharp. The western side of the ridge is icy, the eastern side breaks off with cornices. Move along

Chaptynova peak via the direct line of the northern slope Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge 1.2

Passport

1. Class: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Chaptynova peak, via the direct line of the northern slope, ice-snow route.
4. Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 350 m; length – 650 m. Average steepness of the route – 25–30°.

Ascent Certificate

for N. Shavlinskaya peak, 3400 m, 3A cat. diff.

1. Mountainous Altai, North-Chuya Range, eastern spur of the main range between the Maasha (Mazhoy, Maasheyul) river gorge and the Shavla river gorge.
2. N. Shavlinskaya peak, 3400 m, via the Central spur of the Northern slope and the Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed — 3A cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 800 m (by aneroid barometer). Route length: 735 m. Length of sections:
   • 1st cat. diff. — 250 m;

Ascent

To Einstein Peak via the North-Eastern wall (approximately category 3A difficulty) Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition.

Group Members

1. Bunyaeva V.S. 2nd sports category
2. Tolmachev V.V. 1st sports category
3. Kalachev V.V. Candidate Master of Sports
4. Sannikov A.I. 2nd sports category Group Leader: BUNYAEVA V.S.

Route Description