Steep Camera

Peak 4600 m via the North Ridge from

Shurovsky Glacier, 3A category of difficulty

August 9, 1969

• O. A. Shalya
• V. A. Martov
• G. L. Lorozhev
• N. Ivanov From the assault camp on Shurovsky Glacier, move towards the snow-ice couloir descending from the saddle between the Siberian Peak summits. To the base of the couloir — 1 hour. The steepness of the couloir in its upper part is up to 40°. Further:

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1973 Class of ascent technically complex Region of ascent Pamir Matinsky mountain gorge Ascent route: Kshemysh (5300 m) via the north face Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1700 m, average steepness 80°. Length of complex sections 1700 m (height difference 1610 m, steepness 84%). Number of pitons: rock 209, ice 22, bolted 1 Number of climbing hours: 76 h Number of bivouacs: five (without rest day) and in them: lying 1, sitting 4 Team name:

1. Solonnikov Viktor Aleksandrovich — MS, captain, coach
2. Antonov Dmitry Igorevich, MS, participant

1. Class of ascent — traverse
2. Area of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
3. Route of ascent — Kshemyysh — 5282 m (via N. buttress), Mushketova Southern — 5200 m, Mushketova Northern — 5150 m, Mushketova Predvershinnaya — 5019 m, Shchurovsky Malyy — 5100 m, Muztash — 5100 m, Kharsang — 4800 m, Fedchenko — 5409 m.
4. Characteristics of ascent:
   • height difference of the N. buttress — 570 m
   • average steepness of the N. buttress — 55–58°
   • length of difficult sections
     • 5 km cat. dif. — 2318 m
     • 5–6 km cat. dif. — 222 m
     • 6 km cat. dif. — 34 m

Passport

I. Category of First Ascent Routes 2. Pamir-Alai, Tolstogo glacier 3. Pik LGI — 5500 m, via the North-Eastern wall 4. Proposed 6B category of complexity for the first ascent 5. Height difference: 1330 m. Route length: 1390 m Length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity: 1050 m. Average steepness of the entire route: 72° (4170–5500 m), including 6B category sections: 84° (4280–5000 m). 6. Number of pitons driven

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Matcha mountain node.
3. Ascent route — Center of the eastern wall of Peak LGI (5600 m).
4. Expected difficulty category — VI.
5. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 1550 m.
   • average slope — 70°.
   • average slope of the complex section (VI) — 80°.
   • length of the complex section (VI) — 480 m.

I. Climbing category — traverse. 2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay, spur of the Turkestan Range Kok-Bel. 3. Climbing route — traverse of peaks "Master and Margarita" 4800 m and Kirokhan – 4900 m with ascent to peak "Master and Margarita" along the southern ridge. 4. Climbing characteristics: height difference – 500 m, average steepness – length of complex sections – 320 m. 5. Pitons driven: rock – 22 ice – 5 6. Number of walking hours – 16

Description of the Ascent Route to Obryv Peak via the Southeast Ridge (First Ascent)

Group members: Zhelonkin E.F. (leader), Khokhryakov G.P., Eliseev G.M., Kelikeldin G.V., Sofronov I.D. Obryv Peak is located in the upper reaches of the Zeravshan Glacier, at the end of the southern spur of the Turkestan Range (Pamir-Alay). To the north of Obryv Peak, within the same spur, lies an unnamed peak 5025, separated from Obryv Peak by a long, heavily dissected ridge. To the east, towards Matcha Pass, several steep ridges descend from Obryv Peak and its pre-summit ridges, separated by broad snow-and-ice couloirs. Two ridges extend south and southeast from the peak, terminating in rock walls. According to available data, Obryv Peak had not been climbed before. The route chosen for the first ascent was an ascent via the southeast ridge, accessing it from the southwest through a couloir. The group from Arzamas-16, consisting of G.M. Eliseev, G.V. Kelikeldin, G.P. Khokhryakov, I.D. Sofronov, and E.F. Zhelonkin (leader), departed from the base camp at Matcha Pass at 6:00 on August 4, 1969, reached the summit the same day, spent the night on the ridge, and returned to camp at 14:00 on August 5, descending via the ascent route. The route is a combination of rock, snow, and ice climbing. The main part of the route involves rock climbing, although there are difficult snow and ice sections. From Matcha Pass, the path follows the Zeravshan Glacier, bypassing the southeast ridge to the southern slopes of Obryv Peak. A lake under the southern slopes serves as a landmark for the start of the ascent. Immediately beyond the lake, the ascent proceeds through talus onto a snowfield. The path goes up a fairly steep snowfield to the right, reaching its upper part and emerging onto rocks.

PASSPORT

1. Category — technical.

2. Region — PAMIR-ALAY, Ak-Terek spur of the Turkestan Range.
3. SCALISTY Peak, SOUTHEASTERN summit — 5450 m, via the eastern wall of the Southern ridge.
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, FIRST ASCENT.
5. Height difference — 1610 m, length 2275 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1847 m. Average steepness of main sections — 84° (4100–4750 m), 72° (4750–5280 m), 74° (5150–5450 m), of which 6th category — 847 m: 86° (502 m) 4100–4750 m, 77° (265 m) 4790–5250 m, 85° (80 m) 5250–5410 m.
6. Number of pitons driven: | | rock | placements | bolted | ice | | :------------ | :--: | :--------: | :-----: | :---: |

Passport

1. Class — TECHNICAL.
2. Region — PAMIR-ALAY, Ak-Terek spur of the Turkestan Range.
3. Peak SKALISTY, SOUTHEASTERN SUMMIT — 5450 m, via the eastern wall of the Southern ridge.
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, FIRST ASCENT.
5. Height difference — 1610 m, length 2275 m. Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1847 m. Average steepness of main sections:

• 84° (4100–4750 m)
• 72° (4750–5280 m)

PASSPORT

1. Class — High-altitude technical.
2. Region — Pamir-Alay, Ak-terek spur of the Turkestan Range.
3. Peak Skalisty, Southeast summit 5450 m, via the eastern wall of the South ridge.
4. 6B category of difficulty, second ascent, repetition of the gold medal route of the USSR Championship 1982.
5. Height difference 1600 m, length — 2200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1722 m, of which 6 category of difficulty — 572 m. Average steepness by sections:

• 4100–4750 m — 79°
• 4750–5280 m — 72°