I. Climbing category — traverse.

2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay, spur of the Turkestan Range Kok-Bel.
3. Climbing route — traverse of peaks "Master and Margarita" 4800 m and Kirokhan – 4900 m with ascent to peak "Master and Margarita" along the southern ridge.
4. Climbing characteristics: height difference – 500 m, average steepness – length of complex sections – 320 m.
5. Pitons driven: rock – 22 ice – 5
6. Number of walking hours – 16
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics – 2. All overnight stays are bivouac.
8. Team name: Lensportkomitet team.
9. Full name of team leader, participants, and their qualification:

captain – Stepanov Boris Georgievich – 1st sports category

participants:

• Baskakov Yuri Nikolaevich – 1st sports category
• Verakhovsky Evgeny Ilyich – 1st sports category
• Glebova Irina Borisovna – 1st sports category

10. Team coach – Beletsky Evgeny Andrianovich, Honored Coach of the USSR, Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor.

II. Dates of departure and return: July 31 – August 1, 1975.

Route Description

The double-headed peak "Master and Margarita" and peak Kirokhan are located in the Kok-Bel spur between Peak Sergey Andreev and peak Plovdiv. The ascent is made from the Sergey Andreev glacier cirque.

From the base camp along the left bank of the Kshemesh river, ascent to the terminal moraine of the Kshemesh glacier to the "Big Stone", from which along the left-bank moraine of the Sergey Andreev glacier – exit to the cirque (4–6 hours). The camp from which the ascent is made is located at the end of the upper part of the medial moraine of the glacier (5–7 hours from the base camp).

From the overnight stay along the talus with snow and a snowy slope up to 35–40° approach under the rocky-ice couloir. Up the couloir straight up on the right (orographically) side 280 m (rockfall hazard). Further along the snow-ice sections between rocky islands – exit under the base of the rocky massif leading to the ridge oriented towards the saddle between the southern and northern peaks of "Master and Margarita". Directly under this massif, insurance on ice pitons, cutting steps. Along the rocky massif 3 ropes of medium-difficulty rocks (pitons). Exit to the ridge. Traverse of the ridge to the left along the ledges under the base of the pre-summit tower of "Master and Margarita". 1.5 ropes of medium-difficulty rocks to a ledge (insurance for ledges). Control cairn. Further 2 ropes of difficult climbing (piton insurance) to the exit to the southern summit. From the bend one rope to the control cairn. In the saddle, a convenient platform. From the saddle between the southern and northern peaks 1 rope of easy climbing along large-block rocks to the northern (main) peak "Master and Margarita". Control cairn. From here, a rocky ridge descends to the saddle between "Master and Margarita" and Kirokhan, interspersed with snow-ice sections with frozen stones. From the summit 1 rope of difficult climbing (pitons) along inclined slabs; then 40 m descent on a rope to a small break in the ridge; further down along the rocky-snowy ridge (alternately) to a gendarme, which is bypassed on the right; and descent along a sharp snowy ridge (careful to the right – cornices) to the saddle between peaks "Master and Margarita" and Kirokhan.

At this point, an overnight stay is possible.

From the saddle, first along a snowy slope, and then on the right along rocky ledges – 200 m. Exit to the southern ridge of peak Kirokhan (insurance for ledges). Further 2 ropes along a rocky section to a snowy ridge, which is traversed on the left along the way (careful to the right – cornices).

Approach under a small rocky gendarme. It is passed "head-on". Immediately behind the gendarme is a snow-ice cornice. From the summit of the gendarme, a descent is organized on a rope (25 m) to a ledge under the cornice. Exit from under the cornice – to the right along the way, half a rope along medium-difficulty rocks to the exit to the main ridge.

Then, after a slight decrease, follow two rises of the snowy ridge. They are traversed on the left along the way (to the right – cornices!) and lead to the summit dome of Kirokhan. On the summit, a control cairn.

Descent from the summit along route 2A cat. difficulty to Kirokhan pass along a gradually flattening snowy ridge. From the pass, descent to the right along talus slopes and moraine talus. Here, a second overnight stay was organized.

From the overnight stay, descent to the Kshemesh river valley and further to the base camp (3 hours).

Peak "Master and Margarita". View from the Sergey Andreev glacier.

Northern ridge of peak "Master and Margarita". View from the saddle between "Master and Margarita" and Kirokhan.

Peak "Master and Margarita". View from the ridge of peak Kirokhan. In the foreground, the saddle between the peaks.

Section of the southern ridge of peak Kirokhan. View from the pre-summit dome.

Section of the southern ridge of peak Kirokhan. The photo was taken on the way down to Kirokhan pass.

Table of Main Route Characteristics

Climbing route: traverse of peaks "Master and Margarita" – Kirokhan with ascent to peak "Master and Margarita" along the southern ridge

Team captain: Stepanov B.G. – 1st sports category Team coach: Beletsky E.A. – Honored Coach of the USSR, Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor