Passport
I. Category of First Ascent Routes
- Pamir-Alai, Tolstogo glacier
- Pik LGI — 5500 m, via the North-Eastern wall
- Proposed 6B category of complexity for the first ascent
- Height difference: 1330 m. Route length: 1390 m
Length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity: 1050 m. Average steepness of the entire route: 72° (4170–5500 m), including 6B category sections: 84° (4280–5000 m).
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Number of pitons driven rock | bolt | chock | ice :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- 143/17 | 6/6 | 189/17 | 11/0
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Team's total climbing hours: 60.5 hours and 5 days
Nights spent:
- 1st — two people in a hammock, five people sitting on separate rock ledges
- 2nd — sitting on a rock ledge
- 3rd — separately, sitting on rock ledges
- 4th — sitting on an ice ledge carved out
- Team leader: Glushkovsky Alexander Edgarovich — Master of Sports
Team members:
- Samoded Alexey Anatolyevich — Master of Sports
- Antipin Sergey Mikhailovich — Master of Sports
- Konovalov Yuri Viktorovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
- Penzov Sergey Konstantinovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
- Plotnikov Andrey Evgenyevich — Candidate for Master of Sports
- Shpynev Gennady Petrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
- Team coach: Troshchinenko Leonid Andreevich — Honored Master of Sports
II. Departure to the route: August 10, 1986
Summit: August 14, 1986
Return: August 15, 1986
.... Team's route; --- route of Budyanov V.P. 1978
General photo of the summit: August 1, 1986, 12:00, Helios 44mm lens.
2 km to the object. Shooting point #1 (4100 m).
Photo #1
Photo #2
Profile of the wall on the right. July 30, 1986, 14:00, Helios 44mm lens.
2 km to the object. Shooting point #3. 2 km (4300 m).
Photo #3
Profile of the wall on the left. July 30, 1986, 15:00, Helios 44mm lens. 1 km to the object. Shooting point #2 (4200 m).
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Route Description by Sections
R0–R1: Snow-ice slope above the bergschrund is not technically difficult.
R1–R2: Icy slabs with a small number of "live" rocks, moving left and up. Sections R0–R2, between 8:30 and 13:30, may be exposed to melting ice and falling rocks. Recommended to pass early in the morning or after 15:00.
R2–R3: Icy internal corner — straight up under the overhang of the main wall massif. Tight cracks require thin pitons or "Friend" type chocks. Sitting bivouac for 2-3 people.
R3–R4: Up and right through the internal corner.
R4–R5: Internal corner becomes almost vertical, small overhangs are traversed with free climbing. Protection through chocks and pitons is reliable. At belay stances, there are 3-4 rope anchor points everywhere. At the end of section R4–R5, there are narrow ledges on the right. Sitting bivouac (can accommodate 6-8 people).
R5–R6: Straight up the wall with very small footholds under the base of a large, overhanging rust-colored internal corner that goes up slightly to the left.
R6–R7: Entry into the internal corner through the first large overhang using bolts, as cracks are tight and rock is slightly exfoliating. Then, through three overhangs, the route goes slightly right under a monolithic slab with very small footholds.
R7–R8: Free climbing on the slab, protection through long 3mm pitons. Exit under the internal corner with an overhang at the lower part.
R8–R9: Moving left and up through a monolithic overhang, feet on small inclined ledges. Chocks (Abalakov's "fists") work well. Bivouac on narrow ledges.
R9–R10: Gray slabs lead under the base of another internal corner.
R10–R11: Internal corner with a good crack for chocks leads to a flattening of the wall, which can be called a small cirque.
R11–R12: Traverse of the cirque straight up.
R12–R13: Inclined smooth slab, friction climbing, leads under the base of an internal corner.
R13–R14: Wide internal corner with walls of tiled structure, many "live" rocks. Bivouac on a platform carved in the ice.
R14–R15: Straight up through a monolithic crevice to icy rocks.
R15–R16: Large blocks. Protection through chocks and "Hexentrics".
R16–R17: Ice wall is traversed using front points with two ax blows. Protection through ice screws.
R17–R18: Exit to the summit via a snowy ridge with destroyed rocks.
Throughout the route, double rope is used.