1 American m — t, 2 m — t Solonnikovoy 5A, 3 m — t Yanushevicha 5B, 4 "Mer­esyev", IX — IX, A3

Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karasu gorge, Karavshin valleys.
3. Peak 4379 (Usen) via the center of the east face.
4. Proposed 5A–5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 570 m, length — 840 m, length of sections 5B–6 cat. diff. — 270 m, average steepness 65°.
6. Pitons driven: | Type of pitons | Quantity (1) | Quantity (2) | | :------------- | :----------- | :----------- | | rock | 74 | 20 |

For the championship of Central Council of SDSO "Burevestnik" on alpinism in the class of traverses 1.1.44

TRAVERSE

of peaks 50 years of CPSU – Geroycheskaya Korea – Sapozhnikov – Petr Sukhov – Vostochnaya Belukha – Zapadnaya Belukha – 20 years of Oktyabr – peak Razdelny (first ascent):

• 50 years of CPSU
• Geroycheskaya Korea
• Sapozhnikov
• Petra Sukhova
• Vostochnaya Belukha
• Zapadnaya Belukha

Passport

1. Class — rock climbing category of the 1998 Russian Alpinism Championship
2. Alps — France, Mont Blanc massif
3. Peak — Grandes Jorasses, pointe Walker (4184 m)
4. Route — 6B category of difficulty, Direkt de Ametue (conditional rating –4.0)
5. Length — 1420 m
6. Length of wall section — 1420 m
7. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1100 m including 6 category of difficulty — 480 m
8. Height difference — 1180 m

The summit of Grand Capucin 3838 m, East face. The route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part was ascended by the team V. Igolkin – Yu. Oleinikov on June 22, 1998. 2 — The route "Directe des Capucins" (Bellin, Bovin and Maioli, 1983) was ascended by the team S. Soldatov – M. Sibaev on June 22, 1998.

CERTIFICATE

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Alps, Mont Blanc massif (France, Chamonix).
3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part.
4. Complexity category 5B–6A cat. (TD/TD+ according to the French classification).
5. Height difference — 400 m, route length — 620 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 620 m, of which 6 cat. — 500 m, average steepness of the route — 84°.
6. Driven pitons:

Passport

1. Category of rock climbing ascents.
2. Alps, Mont Blanc Massif (France, Chamonix).
3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, "Directe" route (Bellin, Boivin, Maioli), 1983.
4. Difficulty category 6A (ED2 according to the French classification).
5. Height difference - 450 m, route length - 570 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 570 m, including 6 category - 530 m, average steepness of the route - 84°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 49+2*/29+2* chocks 81/37
7. Team's travel time - 12 hours.

Ascent Passport

To the summit of El Capitan, made by the team "Alpindustry" (Georgia, Rustavi) at the CIS Alpine Championship

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent region: Yosemite National Park, Sierra Nevada mountain range, USA
3. Peak, route: El Capitan, via the south wall (route "The Nose")
4. Expected difficulty category: 6B
5. Height difference: 1200 m

• of which wall part: 1200 m
• total route length: 1400 m
• wall part length: 1400 m

Kilse-Burun — 10.

Left edge of the central wall, 5B (VI, 45 m) (by P. Denisenko, 1977)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the camping site. From the road, ascend a small scree to a terrace at a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it, under a small rusty cornice (R0: 200 m, 20°, I). On section R1–R2 — ascend 40 m up a sheer, crumbling wall to a small shelf under a cornice (R1–R2: 35 m, 80°, V). On section R2–R3 — ascend an overhanging, crumbling wall, bypassing the cornice on the right via a thin crack. The station is above the cornice on a small ledge (R2–R3: 20 m, 95°, VIA2). On section R3–R4 — ascend a small, overhanging crack to a 10-meter chimney. In the lower part, it is quite wide with smooth walls, making it difficult to enter. Above the chimney, move up through an overhang to a small ledge (R3–R4: 25 m, 85°, VI; 20 m, 80°, V). On section R4–R5 — ascend a crack filled with earth and grass to the base of a large, long internal corner resembling an open book. This is how it got its corresponding name (R4–R5: 60 m, 75°–80°, V). On section R5–R8 — ascend 120 m up the internal corner "Book" to reach a large terrace. This is where the main part of the route ends (R5–R8: 120 m, 75°–80°, V). Along the terrace (section R8–plateau), move slightly left and then 120 m up simple rocks to the summit plateau (R8–plateau: 120 m, 50°, I). The length of the main route is about 400 m. The ascent takes 6–8 hours.

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/