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Route Description: Ворота с началом слева
A 5B category route runs along the center of the wall with sheer sections and difficult climbing moves, passing in close proximity to water.
(V. Lendel (Uzhgorod), V. Kostrichenko, V. Zasypkin, Kh. Kornys, E. Umanets, V. Klataevsky, A. Larionov (Simferopol), V. Kulyamin (Yalta), 1973) 5B VI A2 535 m (12 pitches). Average passage time 7–9 hours. The route passes through the center of the wall, in its most extensive part. Two vertical cracks, converging in the direction of each other in the middle of the wall, form gates through which the route line passes. Due to the fairly narrow coastal strip under the wall, already starting from the third rope, climbers get the feeling that the route passes directly over the water. The route starts 50 m to the left of a huge slab leaning against the wall. The landmark is a tree growing on a small slab. R0–R1: 50 m. Climb up the inner corner to the slab, traverse left and up along a shelf to the base of the inner corner. Move up the inner corner-chimney under the eave. Climbing is difficult, organizing intermediate protection points is quite challenging, there are three intermediate pitons. Under the eave, move right, then through an overhanging wall via a crack to an inner corner. Move up the inner corner to a belay station on pitons.
- 10 m III
- 30 m VI A1
- 10 m V A1 R1–R2: 30 m. Climb up a crack formed by the slab and the wall. Reach a ledge. Belay station on pitons. 30 m V+. R2–R3: 40 m. Climb up and right on a slab with small sharp holds to a piton, continue moving up the slab, following sparse pitons. The general direction is up and right towards a tree on a ledge. Climbing gradually becomes easier. Belay station on a ledge with two pitons.
Route Description: Справа от Варежки
New route "To the right of Varezhka" on Kush-Kaya, complexity category 5B, description of the ascent and key points of the route.
Kush — Kaia-13. Right of Va‑rezh‑ka
R0–R1. (35–40 m) The start of the route is 10 m to the left of the "Le‑vaia shtani‑na" route.
- From the shelf, move left and up 10 m — easy climbing
- Exit onto a small ledge under an overhanging chimney with grass
- Up the chimney for 7 m on aid climbing
- Further up through an inclined inner corner to a large tree — easy climbing
- Exit onto a large ledge, where the "Va‑rezh‑ka" route from the left and "Le‑vaia shtani‑na" route from the right converge R1–R2. (25–30 m)
- From the large tree, traverse right along the ledge for 10 m
Route Description: Батилимания
Technical description of the "Batlimania" route, category 6B, to the summit of Kush-Kaya, a detailed description of the stages and recommendations for climbers.
Technical description of the route
Mt. Kush-Kaya (627 m) - 23. "Batilimania", 6B cat.
climbing route
This is how it was done. https://www.risk.ru/blog/208148
The start of the route coincides with the route "Laskovyi Mart". I repeat the description of "Mart"
up to the R7 station. From the "Kush-Kaya" camping parking lot, we go to the right and upwards in the direction
of the "Shkuroder" climbing sector. Bypassing this sector from the right, we ascend the slopes of the summit via the traditional path, which coincides with the approaches to the routes:
- "Shtany"
- "Senokos"
- "Ugolok"
Route Description: Центр
A description of the passage of the "Center" route (6A) to the Morcheka summit with a detailed account of the technique and difficulties in various sections.
Morcheka — 15
The "Center" Route (6A)
First Ascent: Zasypkin — Khorkhe Korys
Article author: Maksim Kostrov
Route Scheme
The weather is sunny. We are in no hurry. We decided to hang three ropes, lift the platform, a sack with cargo, and then rappel on that day.
We hang and level the platform — we will pull it out in its assembled form.
Then I hang all sorts of "hardware" on myself and start climbing. Kirill is belaying. Sergey Tretyakov hung a camera and a camcorder on himself — on this ascent, he is in the role of a cameraman.
Up a thin crack to the left, then across a mirror-like surface through a white patch to a small flake. From it, a long, shallow undercutting goes to the right and slightly upwards.
"It looks like it was pressed in with a log," said Yura Kruglov when explaining the route.
Route Description: Пацифик
Description of the 3A category complexity route "Пацифик" to the summit of Mshatka-Kaya (618 m), including a detailed passage of six ropes with indication of belay and terrain.
Mshatka-Kaya — 6. "Pacific"
Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: 3A Authors: Kirill Gostev, Vladimir Odoyev
The first two ropes of the route coincide with the "Boomerang" route 4A. The route itself is a combination of variations between "Filatovka" and "Boomerang", but is quite interesting and independent.
R0–R1 (45 m, IV)
- The start of the first rope, slightly to the left of "Filatovka" — an inner corner that leads to a ledge
- There will be a tree on the left, then move up the slabs to the base of a mulda
- Then move right up a thin crack to a large tree, with the tree on the exit on the left
- Protection: nuts, cams, anchors R1–R2 (40 m, III)
Route Description: По долинам и по взгориям
Description of the "Through valleys and hills" 4B category of complexity route on Sokol Mountain with equipment recommendations and options for passage.
Sokol — 4
Along the valleys and along the uplands, cat. 4B diff.
R0–R1: 35–40 m, 5b+. Protection is self-provided, can be organized easily, but only sometimes. Station on a small tree on a shelf. R1–R2: 40 m, cat. 6A diff. Protection is self-provided, organizing it is quite problematic: pitons + nuts. At the end of the rope, there are a couple of old piton. Uncomfortable station in the beginning of a deteriorated crack on a bad piton and on own gear. R2–R3: 35 m, cat. 6A diff. Protection:
Route Description: Грань
The "Gran'" 5A route on Sokol Mountain, running parallel to "Brove" with good insurance coverage and technically challenging sections.
Sokol — 36
Gran' — 5А
The route runs parallel to Fantikov's "Brovi". Start — under the left edge of the "Brov'" cornice. Well-equipped with bolts, all stations on bolts. R1 — up the right black streak under the left edge of the "Brov'" cornice along a sheer wall (bolts) 10 m on aid climbing, then a traverse left to the beginning of an internal corner. Enter it through a cork and up to a bulge in the shape of a bottle with the neck facing down. On the right side of the Bottle, climb up to a bulge and traverse 2 m to the right. Station on 3 bolts. R1 — 40 m, 80°, VI-, A2. R2 — Traverse right, and through cracks, moving left, exit under the "Brov'" cornice left of
Route Description: Машина времени
New route "Time Machine" cat.6A on g. Sokol in Crimea, climbed by Sergey Pugachev and Sergey Nadtochiy in January 2012.
Sokol Peak — «Time Machine» 6A
A new route «Time Machine» 6A has been completed on Sokol Peak (Crimea, Sudak). The route length is 390 m. It took more than a week to complete the first ascent with breaks for New Year holidays and rest days. The climb started on December 29, 2011, and finished on January 11, 2012.
Route authors:
- Sergey Pugachev
- Sergey Nadtochiy
Technical description of the route
R0–R1: II, 20 m, 55°, F5a; The start of the route is at the base of an inclined slab, moving towards a large juniper tree. Station on a tree. R1–R2: VI, 50 m, 80°, A2, e4, (four bolts). From the station after the tree, move left to an overhanging crack, then up through it. After the second bolt, climb left onto a destroyed slab (ignore the separate lying boulder) — climb to the right. After the bolt, move left to a vertical crack and continue up it to the station.
Route Description: Ортодокс
New 6A cat. route on the central part of Treugolnik massif, Kharkov - Odessa, 2010, 485 m, 13 pitches, VI, A3+.
Triangle — 5. "Orthodox"
Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6A, VI, A3+ Authors: E. Poltavets (Kharkov), A. Lavrinenko (Odessa) Year of creation: 2010 Length: 485 m Time to complete: 15–20 h Route description: The line passes through the central part of Triangle. The route is long, laborious, and minimally equipped with bolts. The rock is not monolithic everywhere.
From the overnight stay, approach the wall and move left for 100 m. The route starts 50 m to the left of the start of route №6 "Druzhba" — the letter "D" on the wall. The starting point is marked by fresh collapse traces under the wall.
R0–R1 45 m. Up a five-meter overhanging wall to the right. The terrain then becomes more manageable. Move left and up along a wide crack with a small tree. After 30 m, the crack turns right and disappears. On the wall, move left and up 8 m towards the inner corner to a bolt, then climb left into the corner.
It's better to set up a station in the corner, under the protection of a ledge, as the second section has very crumbling rocks.
- 35 m V
- 8 m VI A3+
- 3 m V R1–R2 35 m. Without using the resonating plate on skyhooks, move right and up (3 holes), then up through crumbling terrain; there are two bolts. From the second bolt, move along a shelf to the left, then up 5–7 m through a crumbling corner. Station on personal anchors.
Route Description: Тележенко
Description of the "Forosskiy kant" route, category 2B difficulty level with an emphasis on the technical skills required for participants.
Foros kant. Telezhenko, 2B cat. sl. A strong key rope requires the leader's ability to climb and belay on rocks not less than F 5 c–6 a. This means that if there isn't one, then it's better not to go. To fail to climb and abandon the route is one thing. To fall off and ... is another.