Technical description of the route

Mt. Kush-Kaya (627 m) - 23. "Batilimania", 6B cat. climbing route

This is how it was done. https://www.risk.ru/blog/208148↗

The start of the route coincides with the route "Laskovyi Mart". I repeat the description of "Mart" up to the R7 station. From the "Kush-Kaya" camping parking lot, we go to the right and upwards in the direction of the "Shkuroder" climbing sector. Bypassing this sector from the right, we ascend the slopes of the summit via the traditional path, which coincides with the approaches to the routes:

• "Shtany"
• "Senokos"
• "Ugolok"

Along the way, there is a section of II cat. diff.

R0–R1: 55 m, II–III, 60°. A standard section of the approach to many routes, includes movement along the "steps" of the via ferrata. When moving with a heavy backpack, it may require belaying.

R1–R2: 35 m, easy; from the large pine tree - movement to the right and upwards in the direction of the monolithic rock belt. On it, there is a single crack with a "spherical" tree at the upper part of the crack. The approach to the routes: "Shtany, Senokos, Ugolok" leads to the right along the grassy ledges-terraces.

R2–R3: 30 m, V, 80, A1; Along the slab and the overhanging crack in the middle part, we move slightly to the right towards the tree. The station is on the "spherical" tree.

R3–R4: 30 m, IV+, 70°, A1; From the station on the tree - upwards along the gentle destroyed slit, exit to a small niche, then - through a short overhang (ITO), and further along the gentle slabs to the large juniper pine.

R4–R5: 35 m (10+15+10) m, VI, 85, A2; From the pine tree - upwards to the left under a small overhanging bastion with a destroyed crack. Along the overhanging crack - exit to the large pine tree, and then upwards and traverse to the right 5–6 m. The station is on our own gear.

R5–R6: 25 m, V+, 80°, A1; from the station vertically upwards along the crack (predominantly - with protection) and slabs to a ledge under an overhanging bastion. From here, the inner corner-chimney on the route "Varezhka sprava" is visible 12 m to the left.

R6–R7: 25 m, VI+, 80°, A2; from the ledge, to the right, and then - sharply to the left, climbing under the overhanging slabs with an implicit cornice. Further along the overhanging slabs with poor relief (skyhooks), a bolt, we move to the right and upwards along the cracks. Organization of a hanging station. We continue movement along the left crack. We transition to the right crack (skyhooks, bolt). We exit to the right part of the huge niche under the overhanging slabs. From here, the route "Laskovyi Mart" goes along the ledges of the niche to the left and upwards to the destroyed overhanging cornice and "joins" with the route "Varezhka sprava", which comes to this place from the left. We, however, make our own station on anchors in the right lower part of the niche.

Further, a new complex independent 128 m pitch follows.

R8–R9: 28 m, VI+, 100, A2+;

From the station in the niche:

• two meters to the right and upwards to a narrow horizontal ledge, to a bolt.

Further:

• along the ledge, a complex traverse to the right and upwards on anchors and relief hooks begins.

After the movement:

• upwards along poor relief;
• implicit, deep cracks;
• "shells".

The station is on the second bolt. The relief is quite monolithic.

R9–R10: 20 m, VI+, 90–80, A2+; From the bolt, transition to the right under the vertical slab. Skyhooks. Here, we intersect an old path of bolts and pitons, leading from left to right, from the horizontal traverse on "Levaia shtanina" to "Varezhka sprava".

Along the vertical, flattening slab, we move on hooks. Attention! Very long transition without reliable points! The station is hanging on a bolt.

R10–R11: 38 m, VI, 75; A1–A2; From the station upwards - to the left along an oblique crack. The slab-face is bypassed from the left. To the right along the slabs and an implicit angle, transitioning into a small overhang (bolt) in the direction of a small tree. The station is five meters above it.

R11–R12: 42 m, V, 80–70, A1; From the station - upwards and to the left, in the direction of an overhanging cornice-counterfort. We bypass it from the right and along the slabs and an explicit flattening crack, we move in the direction of a lowering on the yayla. Our own station. Attention: this section is heavily destroyed!

Recommended for the route

It is recommended to use a double rope, hammers for both participants, the following will be needed:

• hole and relief skyhooks of different sizes
• carabiners: vertical, horizontal, anchor, U-shaped
• protection of different sizes
• cams of medium sizes

The use of sling-extenders for carabiners is possible. Stations are mostly on our own gear, occasionally on trees. On the new section, there are five bolted carabiners. It is necessary to supplement with either anchors or carabiners.

Recommendations for climbers

A complex, long sixth category route, requiring participants to perform complex technical techniques. The volume of mountaineering work is large. Recommended for well-prepared teams. Prior processing of the route is desirable. Recommended for passage during a long daylight period.