REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder, category 5B difficulty

2. History of the massif exploration

The exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933, when A. Japaridze and G. Niguriani ascended to the Main Peak from the Lekzyr glacier via the Mestian pass, following a route of category 3B difficulty, and to the Western peak from the Garvash pass, following a route of category 2B difficulty. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif were accomplished for the first time, with a category 4B difficulty: 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east, 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946, the first ascent was made via the "board" to the Western peak, followed by a traverse of the massif to the east, category 5A difficulty — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov. In the 1950s, the conquest of the northern walls began:

• 1951 — V. Abalakov, M. Anufrikov, A. Borovikov, N. Gusak, V. Kizel, V. Nagaev, L. Filimonov, V. Cheredova — Main peak ("Central") via the northern wall, category 5B difficulty,
• 1954 — E. Monucharov, E. Emelyanov, G. Kalepov, B. Sadovsky, G. Senachev, Yu. Chernoslivin — Eastern peak via the northern wall, category 5B difficulty.

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2020 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.

Report

on the ascent to Chegem peak 4351 m via the NE wall, NE ridge (Forostyan's route), 6A category of complexity by the team from Samara region and Moscow for the period from August 12 to 13, 2020.

1. Ascent Passport

Fig. 3

2. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit via the northern ridge — category 3B difficulty (Fig. 3B)

From the Yuzhno-Karakayskiy pass (overnight stay on the moraine under the pass) ascend up to the right along the snow to the right side of the ridge to the rocks. Then move left along the rocks for 60 m and reach the main ridge. Along the heavily fragmented rocks of the main ridge (rockfall hazard!) ascend 90 m upwards and continue along the clearly defined ridge to the slabs. Bypass the slabs on the right (40–50 m) and reach the first ascent. From the ridge, move right to bypass the ascent (8 m), then climb 20 m upwards along the wall of the ascent (piton protection!) and reach the

Passport

I. Category — technical 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak — Ushba North via N.W. wall (4694 m) Kolomyttsev V.G. route 4. 5B cat. diff. — 2nd ascent of the "Silver" route in 1982 5. Height difference: 1700 m, length 2400 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 1240 m. Average steepness of main sections: 55° (3750–4660 m) of the route 47° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 26 закладок — 21