Duvalisurkh (3580) via the left North Ridge — 5A (rock)

Climbing passport:

1. Western Tian Shan, Pskem Ridge, section #7.14 according to the 2013 classifier
2. Duvalisurkh peak (3580 m) via the left North Ridge (l. N. r.).
3. 5A category of difficulty
4. First ascent: Kanonersov V. — Khursandov A. (1982)
5. Description update: Shekhovtsov S., Makhmudov U., Mayorova L. (2013)

Route description:

From the base camp near the springs under Duvalisurkh peak to the col of the North ridge, the ascent takes 1.5–2 hours via scree or snow. From the col:

Description of the route to Peak Geologov via the western counterfort. The route was completed on July 6-7, 1969 by a group consisting of:

• G. G. Andreev — Candidate Master of Sports, leader
• Yu. A. Logachev — Candidate Master of Sports
• O. I. Shumilov — Candidate Master of Sports
• T. G. Andreeva — 1st sports category
• V. P. Veiko — Candidate Master of Sports (4300 m) Peak Geologov is located in a secondary ridge closing the Ulitor gorge in the area of the Dughoba tourist camp in the Pamir-Alay region. There are no classified routes to Peak Geologov. The goal of the ascent was to find a technically interesting and safe route of approximately 3B-4A category difficulty. Therefore, out of several counterforts, the western counterfort was chosen, which leads directly to the summit of Peak Geologov - this is the steepest and yet the safest route to the summit from the west. The approach from the Dughoba tourist camp follows a trail through the Ulitor gorge (see the map-scheme) to Peak Geologov — 4-5 hours.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area: AUSB "Dugoba", Alai ridge 3. Peak, its height, route taken: p. Dugoba 4200 m, Eastern ridge 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A 5. Characteristics of the route: rock Elevation gain: 3700–4200 m (500 m) Length of sections with 5th and 6th category of difficulty: none Average steepness: 45–50° 6. Pitons hammered: rock 27, ice none, bolted none

XXXI USSR Championship in Alpinism

• rock climbing class — Ascent Passport 14–7. 14:20 I. Ascent class — rock climbing — 5th category

2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alai; mountain range: Alai
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Konstruktors, 4100 m, via the center of the left part of the South wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: Height difference Route length Average steepness of wall sections 5–6 difficulty category 820 m 960 m 78°

Ascent made on Peak "Krugozor" (conditionally) 4000 m

1. Class: Technical
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay
3. Ascent route: p. 4000 m (Krugozor) via the northern ridge
4. Ascent characteristics: Elevation gain 600 m. Length of difficult sections 200–200 m
5. Pitons driven: rock 16 pcs.
6. Number of climbing days: 1
7. Number of climbing hours: 12
8. Number of nights: —
9. Team name: s/k "Polytechnic"

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alayskiy ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. SAIV, 4650 m, via the eastern ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness — 50°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 500 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 360 m, 4th cat. diff. — 120 m 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating RPS (Rappel and Intermediate Protection Points): rock — 38, ice — hammer-screw 7. Number of walking hours: 9 hours

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Sovetskikh Shkolnikov Peak, 4850 m via the W wall (second ascent).
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 750 m; average steepness 75°; length of sections with 4th cat. diff. – 220 m, 5th cat. diff. – 470 m, 6th cat. diff. – 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 23 ice — (dash)

Ascent Record

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamiro-Alay, Alaysky Ridge 3. Peak, its height — Shait 4916 m. Ascent route via North-East wall: (following Mogilevtsev's path), official route. 4. Expected difficulty category: 5B category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m. Average steepness 67 degrees. Length of sections: 1 – 80 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 365 m, 5 – 320 m, 6 – 85 m. 6. Pitons driven:

• For belaying:
  • rock – 58
  • ice – –

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via North-Eastern wall (by Mogilevtsev's path), qualifying route
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m, average steepness 67°. Length of sections:

• 1st cat. diff. — 40 m
• 3rd cat. diff. — 300 m
• 4th cat. diff. — 375 m

Description of the Ascent to Peak "Mayakovsky" via the Northwest Wall (Upper Section)

A group from the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists consisting of:

• REZNIK V. P.
• SHKLYAR G. Z.
• SAVIN V. I.
• PETRASHKO G. A. Led by (signature) Alma-Ata 1962 Peak "Mayakovsky" is located in one of the ridges of the Trans-Ili Alatau range. It is situated in the cirque of the Tuyuk-Su glacier, from which the Malaya Almaatinka river originates.