LYALVER, 4350 m, via NE ridge (from N. Tsanner Pass), Cat. 2B diff. Initial bivouac — on the edge of the rocky side of the Lower Tsanner icefall (point 3). From N. Tsanner Pass, move along the snowy NE ridge, to the right of the ridge line, to a rocky outcrop. Leaving the outcrop on the right, ascend 200 m up a snowy-icy slope with a slope angle of up to 45°, reaching the rocks. Ascend the rocks 300–350 m to a snowy ridge and continue up the ridge to the summit. From the pass, 3–4 hours. Descent via the ascent route — 2 hours.

7. Traversing the Kostan-krest ridge from Pik Mira to Tютюнбаши with an ascent to Pik Mira via the Northern counterfort - 4B category of difficulty (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, and V. Shutov - July 22-24, 1961; Fig. 36). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to Pik Mira is described in route 106. From Pik Mira, descend west along a 150-180-meter sharp snowy ridge (cornices!) and 80-meter steep rocks (sporting descent) to the saddle between Pik Mira and Truda. From the saddle, traverse 200-250 meters along a heavily jagged rocky-snowy ridge (cornices!) with 3-5-meter rocky and small snowy gendarmes, which are overcome along the ridge. After a 7-10-meter drop, ascend along a sharp snowy ridge, then along a slope that transitions into a 60-80-meter sharp snowy ridge with small rocky outcrops over 150-200 meters. Continue along rocks of medium difficulty and a snowy ridge to ascend to Pik Truda. From Pik Truda:

• descend 25-30 meters along rocks of medium difficulty,
• then ascend to a small gendarme,
• from it, make a 40-meter sporting descent to a saddle. Further:
• traverse along rocks of medium difficulty with many small gendarmes, which are bypassed along shelves or overcome directly along 2-5-meter walls and 35-meter slabs (hook!) - descend into a drop. In the drop - a bivouac. From the Truda pass - 10-12 hours. From the drop:

Missees-Tau via North Ridge, Cat. 4B

From the base to the bivouac sites at the turn of the glacier under the base of the SE ridge of Brnoe Peak – 2.5–3 hours. Rounding this ridge from the left, ascend the grassy slope, then along the stream bed into the moraine-filled cirque of the glacier flowing from the South cirque of Brnoe Peak. Here, near the moraine lake, there are bivouac sites. Up the glacier tongue. The icefall is bypassed on the right along the boundary with the rocks (provided there is snow), or via rock-and-scree ledges. For training purposes and safety, it is recommended to traverse the icefall through the center, roped and with piton belays. The initial bivouac is in the South cirque, from the sites at the turn – 3–4 hours. An alternative initial bivouac is possible on the last snow col in the Brnoe–Missees-Tau ridge, the ascent to it from the cirque takes ~1 hour. In its lower part, the broad North ridge of Missees-Tau is covered with a glacier, which has several rises and ends in drops on the west and rock walls on the east. The second rise leads to a rock "island", from which a snowy ridge goes left, ending in rocks on the eastern wall (routes Cat. 5A and 5B also lead here). Move 30–40 m left of the right edge of the ridge, reaching the col of this ridge. At the left end of the ridge, on the boundary with the rocks, there is a bivouac site. A safe place to spend the night during a thunderstorm, protected from the wind, is in the bergschrund under the col. From the plateau – 3–4 hours.

Orta-Kara (4250 m) via NE ridge — Category 2A

From the Besengi alpine camp to Kель Pass, where the night's stay is. Depart from the bivouac for the summit at 3–4 am. The start of the route coincides with the start of the route to Салынан via the 3rd ridge. You need to descend to the plateau and head towards the saddle between the peaks Салынан and Орта-Кара. Follow the wide snowy couloir leading to this saddle, keeping to the left (in the direction of travel) side, and then to the left branch, exiting onto the saddle. The further path along the ridge is to the left. The ridge is initially snowy and not steep. Move along the right (north) side of the ridge, then along the ridge. The snowy ridge gives way to rocky terrain. The rock is straightforward, but there are many loose stones. The last gendarme — the subpeak — is bypassed on the left via ledges. After the saddle, ascend to the summit via simple but heavily broken rock. From the ridge to the summit takes 3–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route to Кель Pass and back to the camp.

Orta-Kara via SW ridge, 3A

From Keld Pass, the path goes along the glacier to V. Tsanner Pass (2–2.5 hours). It is advisable to traverse 100 m to the left from the pass to have a clear view of the entire ascent route to Orta-Kara peak. From Tsanner Pass, traverse along the slopes of Orta-Kara for 50–60 m to the entrance of the couloir. Ascend the couloir to a snow ledge (120–150 m). After 30–40 m of ascent, exit into the narrow part (throat) of this couloir (25–30 m). After another 80–100 m, the couloir branches out. Follow the left branch, which leads to the main ridge. Further movement along the ridge is over moderately difficult rock terrain:

• A large gendarme on the way is bypassed on the right via a narrow ledge (50 m) with piton belay.
• Further to the right, a narrow rock couloir is visible, leading to the shoulder.
• Another rope length to the left leads to the top of the gendarme.
• Continue along the ridge.
• After 30–40 m, the ridge meets a two-meter vertical wall, which is overcome directly, leading to the top of the gendarme.
• From the gendarme, descend, then move right to bypass the summit tower, first through a snow-ice couloir, then over loose rocks on the right to reach the summit. The journey from V. Tsanner Pass takes 5–6 hours. Descent from the summit to the east via route 2B to the saddle towards Salynan peak:

Description of the ascent route to Panorama Peak from the South via couloir (2B cat. dif.) (4077)

The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the first stage of the Kyundyum-Mizhirgi glacier's icefall can be found in the description of the ascent route to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak from the Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass (3A cat. dif.). A bivouac site is located on the moraine of the glacier's first stage. 3 hours from the "Bezengi" alpine camp. Departure from the bivouac at 4:00 towards the wide couloir. Then:

• Ascend on the left side of the couloir via large scree.
• The couloir gradually narrows.
• At the turn, the couloir forks.
• The path goes via the right couloir on snow (35–40°) with crampons.
• 80–90 m before the ridge, turn right and follow distinct rock ledges under the "gendarme" (belay!!).
• The ledges lead to a snow-ice couloir (30–35°).

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Semenovsky Peak (4050 m) from the west via hanging glacier.
4. Route type — combined, sections determining the complexity category — ice.
5. Proposed complexity category — 2B category.
6. Route characteristics. Elevation gain — 1170 m, length 2325 m, length of sections 3–4 category — 875 m, average steepness of main difficulty sections 33° (2880–3680).
7. Pitons hammered: rock — 1, ice — 16.
8. Number of climbing hours — 10.
9. There were no overnight stays on the route.

I. Description of the Traverse Route

I. General Description of the Traverse of Ukyu and Gidan-tau Peaks and their Location

In the central part of the Central Caucasus, in the area of the Bezengi valley, north of Koshtan-tau peak, a spur of the Lateral Range extends, with Ullu-auz-bashi peak located in its northern part. Northeast of Ullu-auz-bashi peak lies Dumala-tau peak, opposite which, to the northwest, is a spur with Ukyu and Gidan-tau peaks. The spur with Ukyu and Gidan-tau peaks belongs to the Dumala river valley, which flows into the Cherek Bezengiysky river on the right. (see map) The traverse of Ukyu-Gidan-tau peaks was started from the "Bezengi" alpine camp following the route described in "Ascent to Ukyu peak via the southeastern ridge, category 2B". The further traverse proceeded in a northwest direction to Gidan-tau peak, with a descent along the western ridge of Gidan-tau peak. Having started the route at 4:00 PM on August 6, 1963, the group of 6 people:

1. Minin V.P. - leader, 1st sports category.
2. Mekhannikov V.V., 1st sports category.

20. Ullauuz via South Spurring Ridge — category of difficulty (G. Chunovkin, Yu. Komarov, A. Pugachev, V. Stankevich, Yu. Shevchenko and I. Shestipalov, August 24, 1964). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the bivouac on the South ridge of the Utug pinnacle see in description 18. From the bivouac:

• Descend from the ridge to the snowy plateau of the glacier, above the third stage of the icefall
• Ascend along the plateau, then along the snowy rise to the upper snowy plateau of the cirque, formed by the peaks Ullauuz and Kundyum-Mizhyrgi
• Behind the South spurring ridge of the Ullauuz peak, visible from the bivouac, to the left (rope

Ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass.

Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass is classified as category III.

Route description.

Day 1.

Day 1. From "Bezengi" tourist center, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the glacier level (approximately one and a half hours of walking). Then, you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle part to the first step of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall. The first step is traversed on its right side along the most gentle ice slope. It is not recommended to approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall. The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on. The path continues:

• straight up the icefall, approximately 20–50 m from its left edge;
• numerous crevices are filled with serac fragments and can be passed without difficulty.