Orta-Kara via SW ridge, 3A

From Keld Pass, the path goes along the glacier to V. Tsanner Pass (2–2.5 hours). It is advisable to traverse 100 m to the left from the pass to have a clear view of the entire ascent route to Orta-Kara peak. From Tsanner Pass, traverse along the slopes of Orta-Kara for 50–60 m to the entrance of the couloir. Ascend the couloir to a snow ledge (120–150 m). After 30–40 m of ascent, exit into the narrow part (throat) of this couloir (25–30 m). After another 80–100 m, the couloir branches out. Follow the left branch, which leads to the main ridge. Further movement along the ridge is over moderately difficult rock terrain:

  • A large gendarme on the way is bypassed on the right via a narrow ledge (50 m) with piton belay.
  • Further to the right, a narrow rock couloir is visible, leading to the shoulder.
  • Another rope length to the left leads to the top of the gendarme.
  • Continue along the ridge.
  • After 30–40 m, the ridge meets a two-meter vertical wall, which is overcome directly, leading to the top of the gendarme.
  • From the gendarme, descend, then move right to bypass the summit tower, first through a snow-ice couloir, then over loose rocks on the right to reach the summit.

The journey from V. Tsanner Pass takes 5–6 hours.

Descent from the summit to the east via route 2B to the saddle towards Salynan peak:

  • The first gendarme on the ridge is bypassed on the right via a ledge, then over simple rock terrain along the ridge.
  • The rock ridge turns into a snow ridge.
  • Along the ridge, reach two large boulders, then descend right through a couloir onto the plateau.
  • The couloir is snowy; rocks may fall from Salynan's slopes on the right.
  • By the end of summer, the couloir may be icy.

The descent from the summit takes 2–2.5 hours.

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