1: CATEGORY OF ASCENT: 2. REGION OF ASCENT 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT AND ASCENT ROUTE 4 4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE AVERAGE STEEPNESS LENGTH OF SEC. 6. NUMBER OF PITO­NS FOR BELAY (ROCK) 7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS 8. FULL NAME OF LEADER AND PARTICIPANTS: 9. TEAM COACH

Rostov Region Climbing and Rock Climbing Federation

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Chaget-chat 2963.8 m via the south-eastern ridge presumably category 1B, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Arkhyz area, Sofiyskoe valley, section 2.1 of the mountain route classifier.
2. Summit: Chaget-chat (2963.8 m), via the south-eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain: 160 m

CLIMBING CLASS — Rock climbing CLIMBING REGION — Western Caucasus, Middle part of the North-West ridge of the Sofiyskiy ridge to the South-East from Stolichny 3.251 pass PEAK, ROUTE — “9 September” (first ascenders’ suggestion) via the Northern slope PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B ROUTE DESCRIPTION — Combined (snow and rock), absolute height difference ~550 m NUMBER OF PITONS DRIVEN — 10 DURATION — 4.5 hours NUMBER OF NIGHTS — No nights required on the route CLIMBING LEADER — E. Zaporozhchenko, Candidate for Master of Sports

ASCENT ROUTES TO:

• AMANAUZ UZLOVOY PEAK via W. RIDGE, Cat. 4A diff.
• AMANAUZ (Uzlovoy - Glavny) PEAKS, TRAVERSE, Cat. 4A diff.

Report

On the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif (v. Vostochnaya — 3968 m, v. Glavnaya — 4047 m, v. Zapadnaya — 4038 m) (V. Davydov) 5B category of complexity By the team of the Crimean Republican Club of Alpinists, Climbers, and Ice Climbers "Mountain School 'Category of Difficulty'"

For the period

From August 5, 2023, to August 7, 2023. Semenov M. A. — MS, leader; Vvedenskaya V. V. — 2nd sports category; Alpinclub — Gornoye bezumiye 2023 year.

I. Climbing report

| | 1. General information | |

Report

On the first ascent of the national team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the summit of Klych-Kara-Kaya 3578 m via the eastern edge. Category 2B difficulty. Presumably Category 2B difficulty. Ascent on September 11, 2022.

Semenov M. A. — MS team leader Maksimov K. M. experience of 2nd sports category Alpclub — "Gornoe Bezumie" 2023

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Participants of the ascent

Ak-Bashi from Ak Pass, combined, 2A

Route description:

From "Trud" campsite ascend snowy talus slopes to the foot of Ak Pass. Reach the pass via talus slope with small ledges. From the pass, follow the ridge left, bypassing the first sentinel on the right. In the first half of summer, when the ledges are covered with snow, the sentinel is ascended "head-on" along its crest. Then, via ledges right of the ridge, reach its snowy section. Ascend 400-meter snowy ridge to a saddle before the first summit. The summit is ascended via broken rocks. Descend from the summit into a gap along the right side of the ridge (loose rocks!). From here, via talus gully and broken ridge, ascend the main summit of Ak-Bashi. 6 hours from the campsite. Descent from the summit via the ascent route to the campsite takes 3 hours.

• Departure time from the campsite should be no later than 5:00;
• Ascending to Lozhny Ak Pass is not recommended as snow slabs are possible on the slope at the beginning of summer, and a steep glacier becomes exposed by the pass in autumn.

Dolomit Severny from Dolomit Severny Pass, 2A

Route description:

From Chat bivouac, ascend via the right moraine and large talus slopes into the talus cirque between Chat-bashi Peak (left) and Dolomit Severny Peak (right). From here, take a straightforward snowy-talus slope to reach Dolomit Severny Pass. From the pass, traverse a 300-meter crumbling ridge to its sharp depression. From this point, descend leftwards to a ledge, then follow a chimney (R2) and a ridge composed of slabs to approach a large slab (R4) overhanging the ridge. Bypass it on the left via talus (loose rocks!). Continue via rocky terrain to a large "roof" slab lying edge-upwards, a key landmark. Bypass the "roof" on the left through a couloir and then ascend to the summit ascent via the ridge (beware of cornices early in the season!). From the ascent, descend via straightforward rocky terrain to a large talus saddle, then ascend the summit via a straightforward talus slope. The ascent takes approximately 5.5 hours from the bivouac. The descent from the summit follows the "Dоломит Северный по центру бастиона Западной стены" route, exiting onto Okhotnichy Pass. Then, descend via talus and snowy slopes to the bivouac in the Chat-bashi cirque (40 minutes from the pass).

M86. Dolomit Tsentralny via West Face

(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by Yu. Melnik, 1965) From the lake, head up and to the right along the scree towards the couloir between the North (left) and Central (right) Dolomites. The couloir ends at the bottom with a block of steep cliffs resembling "ram's foreheads". Ascend to a small rocky ridge via its lower right part, 150 m from the couloir. The ridge divides in half two short, gentle couloirs resembling internal corners to the right of the main couloir. From here, the starting point of the route is visible - a huge internal corner - the "Book". The ascent to the ledge R0 below the "Book" follows the terrain without visible landmarks and lacks a defined line. It takes 3.5 hours from the bivouac. From the R0 ledge, ascend via the crack with the overhanging left "page of the book". Then, move up and to the right along a sloping ledge, cross to the other "page of the book", and exit it via the internal corner onto a ledge to the control cairn R2 (strenuous climbing). From the cairn, traverse 4 m to the left along the slab, then ascend to a small ledge. From here, via the R3 crack between two slabs, exit under the overhang of the left slab into an internal corner (strenuous climbing; when there's verglas on the slabs, the middle 10 m of the slab are traversed using ladders). Ascend 8 m up the corner and then move right onto a grey slab - an internal corner leading to a narrow ledge R5. It takes 3.5 hours from the "Book". From the slab's edge, move left and ascend up and to the right, bypassing monolithic overhangs along a 10-meter narrow ledge. At its end, ascend straight up along smooth rocks (beware of loose rocks! blind cracks). Reach the next ledge R7. It's also possible to ascend directly from R6 via a hanging crack, but if it's icy, it's better to go to the right.

М92. Dolomit Severny - Yuzhny traverse with ascent via the western wall (rock route, 4A cat. dif.) The ascent to Dolomit Severny is done via the left variant of the М89 route. From R1, move left under the black wet slabs. Then right-upwards along the wall composed of individual blocks and internal corners (good placement for protection with nuts). At the end of the wall, a large boulder serves as a landmark. On the green ledge, protection is via a flake. Then, via an internal corner, another green ledge, and one more internal corner, ascend to a large talus ledge R8. The further ascent follows the М89 route. From the Northern summit, descend along the severely degraded ridge to the col towards the Central summit. The ascent to it is done from the left of the ridge, along the boundary between snow and rock, and via a steep snowy ascent. The further traverse to the Southern summit follows the М91 route. The section R14-R13 is traversed from the left along a rock flake and the boundary between snow and rock (good placement for large-sized nuts). The rocks here are wet, with water dripping, and in the mornings, there is ice. The descent from the Southern summit follows the М84 route.