Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technically challenging
2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alay
3. Ascent route to peak Tamdykul (5450 m above sea level) — Eastern peak via the eastern ridge.
4. Ascent characteristics: — elevation gain — 2250 m; — average steepness — 44°; — length of complex ice section — 45°, 1050 m; — length of complex rock section — 80°, 100 m;
5. Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge
3. Peak — Zamin Karor (Eastern) 4767 m, via the northwestern wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1065 m; b) length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1228 m; c) average steepness — 65°.
6. Number of pitons:

№ 34. Zamin Karor / II / 5A cat. diff. NW buttress. V. Martynov, 1975

§ 1. General characteristics of the route

The present route (except for the upper part) runs along the northwestern buttress of Centralnaya Zamin Karor peak. In its lower part, the buttress is not clearly defined. In the upper part, the route passes along the walls of the summit and pre-summit towers. The route is logical; to the left are smoothed vertical walls, and to the right is a huge rock-snow-ice gully that exits onto the saddle between Centralnaya and Glavnaya Zamin Karor peaks; rock and ice falls occur on both sides of the route (buttress). The terrain on the route is predominantly rocky (about 86%):

• Rocks in some areas are covered with ice until they are exposed to sunlight (12–1 pm).
• The rocky terrain consists mainly of monolithic rough rocks, but there are areas of broken rocks, which requires caution and proper movement tactics due to the risk of rockfall.
• There are many thin, shallow cracks in the rocks, as well as crevices where duralumin or wooden wedges can be used. About 12–14% of the route consists of firn and ice. The total length of the route is approximately 1300–1350 m (about 33 ropes), the average steepness (excluding key sections) is about 60°, the steepness of key sections (350–400 m long) is 70–80°, and the height difference is 1000–1050 m.

Passport

I. Class of ascent — technical 2. Region of ascent — Gissar Range 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Central peak of Zamin-Karor (4303 m) via N buttress from Central Col. 4. Proposed difficulty category 5B cat. dif. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1120 m, average steepness — 68°, length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. 6. Number of pitons for belaying and creating RPS:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay; Gissar Ridge
3. Zamin Karor Central (4702 m) — via the right edge of the N wall
4. Proposed category of complexity — 5B. First ascent
5. Height difference of the wall section — 1125 m. Of these: lower belt — 600 m, middle part of the wall — 200 m, upper belt — 325 m. Length — 1730 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 580 m. Of these, 6 category of complexity — 90 m. Average steepness of the wall — 67°.
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice |

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class - technical. 2. Ascent area - Zamin Karor (Yaghnob wall). 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Zamin Karor II-Western, 4525 m, via N-W wall, qualifying (Lapshik). 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 1500 m, average steepness - 55–60°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category - 540 m. 6. Pitons driven for belay: rock - 92, ice - 7, bolted - none; for creating artificial holds: rock - 7, ice - 2, bolted - none. 7. Total climbing hours - 14 hours.

64. Nauka from the North (or South), Category 2B Climbing Route, Fig. 34

This description is for traversing the Nauka peak from south to north. Fig. 34. From the bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Sangalt Glacier, cross the firn plateau of the cirque. Ascend from the glacier to the southern saddle of the peak. The ascent to the saddle goes up a snowy slope, with a bergschrund at its lower part. On the saddle, there is a sharp gendarme; pass it on the left. From the saddle, go up a slanting crack to the left until it forks. Ascend the right vertical crack to a balcony (25 m). From there, go left along a horizontal crack with a jammed rock to a platform. From the platform, ascend the wall (30 m) to reach the shoulder. Then, follow the simple ridge rocks to the summit. Next:

• From the saddle, go up a slanting crack to the left until it forks.
• Ascend the right vertical crack to a balcony (25 m).
• From there, go left along a horizontal crack with a jammed rock to a platform.
• From the platform, ascend the wall (30 m) to reach the shoulder.
• Then, follow the simple ridge rocks to the summit.

93

Ascent to the summit of YUZHNAYA SIAM via the Northwest Wall, category 2B difficulty

The ascent to the summit is made from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siam River, or from a bivouac on the left moraine of the Eastern glacier of Belaya Piramida. In the first case, it takes two hours to reach the Pereval Chetyrekh. From the pass, descend to the left onto the scree of the western slopes of the ridge and, bypassing the summit of Malyutki Siama, approach the summit of Yuzhnaya Siama. The northwest slopes of the summit are covered with snow and ice, and there is a characteristic rocky outcrop in the pre-summit area, which is accessed via a narrow couloir. The couloir is snow-ice with a slope of 30–40°. Follow the firn slope to the base of the couloir and move up it. At the end of summer, the couloir is icy, so crampons are necessary! Continue moving up the couloir towards the rocky outcrop. The couloir ends with an ice wall 80–90 m long and 45–60° steep, and the rocky outcrop. Climb the rocks of the outcrop on the right side, and then the ice wall to reach the pre-summit snow ridge. To overcome the last 20 m of the ice wall (up to 70°), steps need to be cut. Belaying is with pitons! The pre-summit snow ridge, which is not too steep, leads to the summit rocky ridge. The rocks are of medium difficulty. To the summit, 1–1.5 rope lengths. The descent from the summit is to the southwest via a narrow couloir with a slope of 30–35°. After 100 m, traverse the couloir to the right. Then, across easy rocks with scree, cross three low, destroyed counter-forces and descend onto the scree (snow in early summer) and, bypassing the western slopes of Yuzhnaya Siama and then Malyutki Siama, reach Pereval Chetyrekh, and from there descend to the base camp.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Group size – 6 people
2. Initial bivouac – base camp on Siama or moraine of the Eastern glacier of Belaya Piramida.

REPORT

On the ascent of peak Siyoh (4100 m) Pamir-Alay, Hissar Range, Osman-Tala mountains 27.06.1978–28.06.1978 Team members:

1. Belousov S.V. — 1st sports category, team leader
2. Bezrukov L.D. — participant
3. Bratanov A.A. — participant
4. Olefir V.V. — participant
5. Skalaukhov A.P. — participant

Climbing Passport. 5.2.110 Climbing Class: Rock (Combined) Climbing Area: Igizakov area (5.2.) Peak, its height, and climbing route: "Ular", 3900 m via the Northwest Ridge, cat. dif. "Ular" Estimated Difficulty Category: 3A Route Characteristics: Height difference: 300 m Average steepness: 50° Section lengths: 2–150 m; II–100 m; III–240 m; Pitons driven: