Ascent Record

I. Ascent class - technical.

2. Ascent area - Zamin Karor (Yaghnob wall).

3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Zamin Karor II-Western, 4525 m, via N-W wall, qualifying (Lapshik).

4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B.

5. Route characteristics:

elevation gain - 1500 m, average steepness - 55–60°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category - 540 m.

6. Pitons driven for belay:

rock - 92, ice - 7, bolted - none; for creating artificial holds: rock - 7, ice - 2, bolted - none.

7. Total climbing hours - 14 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

1st bivouac by a stream after descending from the summit. 9. Full names of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

Slavinsky Pavel Frantsevich, Candidate for Master of Sports, leader; Bovkun Vladimir Romanovich, 1st sports category; Gurov Vladimir Nikolaevich, 1st sports category.

10. Team coach - Kensitsky L.V.

II. Date of departure on the route - July 24, 1977, return to base camp - July 25, 1977.

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Table I

Brief explanations for Table I.

Departure from base camp - July 24, 1977, at 4:00. Ascended via scree to under the Northwest wall of the II Western peak of Zamin Karor.

Section R0–R1. Snowy, gentle slope, 100 m long. Snow is dense. Climbing while connected.

Section R1–R2. Transition from snow to easy rock, ascent towards a broad ledge. Simultaneous movement.

Section R2–R3. Wide ledge, up to 10 m, with snow patches. Ledge direction is left-up. After 200 m, at the end of the ledge - platforms.

Section R3–R4. From the platforms, via a rugged wall (wet rocks, piton belay) reached the second ledge.

Section R4–R5. Along the ledge, 30 m to the right, towards sheer dark-colored walls. Loose rocks on the ledge.

Sections R5–R8. To the right of the dark band, from the flowing water, right-up via an intermittent crack, 80 m, to a narrow ledge. Along the left part of a large wet patch, a sheer crack, 40 m; very difficult climbing, piton belay. Then, via a wall, 40 m - exit to a large snow patch, shaped like an axe. Good platforms for bivouacs here. Weather started to deteriorate, strong wind.

Section R8–R9. Ascent up the snow patch towards a chimney-crack.

Section R9–R10. Via an intermittent chimney-crack (in places, the chimney narrows to several centimeters), movement with piton belay, rocks are smooth. The chimney leads to a sheer wall. I control point.

Section R10–R13. Via a deep chimney, left-up, 120 m, to the next sheer chimney, 30 m, which leads to a broad ledge. At the end of the ledge (140 m): II control point and good bivouac platforms. Bad weather, snowfall.

Sections R13–R16. Above the platforms, walls of the II Western peak overhang. Right-up, via a wall, 180 m, to a weakly defined buttress. Along it, 60 m up, to a ledge going right to a crack-chimney. Snowfall, rocks are wet and slippery.

Sections R16–R18. Via a narrow chimney, 180 m, ascent to the wall of the ridge. Difficult climbing on the wall, piton belay, - and exit to the ridge. Intermittent snowfall.

Sections R18–R20. Platforms on the ridge. The ridge ascends steeply towards the summit. Traverse along the southern slopes of the ridge to a weakly defined buttress, ascent to the summit via it. 20:00, July 24, 1977.

Descent via the Eastern ridge towards the saddle between the II Western and Main peaks. Before reaching the saddle, descended south to a broad ledge. Then, via slabs and ledges - descent to scree and further to a stream. Organized a bivouac.

July 25, 1977.

Along the left part of the stream, leaving the canyon to the right, reached the Pindor river and via a trail - back to base camp.