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28. VILS Peak via the Northwest Ridge /combined route, cat. 5A/ From the base camp in the direction of the Green hill on the moraine of the Skaaz glacier to the point where you turn left into the couloir leading under the Vils wall. The landmark is the top of the wall, which has a characteristic trapezoidal shape. Follow the scree into the couloir, then follow the snow, keeping to the right side of the couloir. (The couloir is rockfall-prone) walk on the rocks to the right, and higher up on the snow (40°, 200–250 m) to the narrowing of the couloir opposite the rocky ridge with gendarmes leading under the peak wall. Cross the couloir with an avalanche gully (belay via ice axe) to the rocky ridge. First control point: straight up the ridge rocks to the "gendarmes". Overcome the "gendarmes" head-on, descend through the cleft down into the couloir. Then, on the left side of the couloir, bypassing the gendarmes. In the couloir, there is flow ice (50°, piton belay). To the right along the scree rocks. Then bypass the gendarmes on the left along the ice (step cutting, piton belay) to the internal corner to the right, leading to the beginning of the first wall. From the first gendarme to the beginning of the wall is 250 m. Along the internal corner and then left-up to a narrow shelf at the beginning of the wall. Control point. The wall is monolithic with a limited number of holds. Straight up through the clefts (20 m, 80°) traverse to the right into a recess (good belay point) and left-up to a ledge. The ledge is to the right and up to a two-meter shelf. Along the crack above the shelf to a wide cleft and straight along it to a ledge for belay (90 m, piton belay). Then up along the feather-like steep rocks to a gendarme on the ridge. No water. Snow in the couloir to the right. Control point. Bypassing the gendarmes to the right (piton belay 40 m). Then along the slabs (45–50°, piton belay) to the right and up under the second wall (200 m).

Counter traverse + Φ Rock with piton 40 m, 80° V 60 m, 65° IV+ 8

Fig. 22 92. Vo­lo­ga­ta (4396 m) via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 22). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district or from the settlement of Dzi­nag (group of 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bi­vu­ach­naya Peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Eastern branch of the plateau (closed crevasses) and approach the right side of the wide snowy slope of the saddle connecting Vo­lo­ga­ta with the Ka­ra­u­g­om massif. From the plateau, having passed along the snowy bridge of the bergschrund, on the right side of the gently sloping

Fig. 22 93. Vologata (4396 m) from the south via the couloir (combined route, category 2A difficulty, fig. 22). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Eastern branch of the plateau (closed crevices) and approach the wide snowy couloir descending from the Southwest snowy ridge from under the Vologata peak, to the right side of the wide snowy slope of the saddle connecting Vologata and Karaugom.

136. VTsSPS-Karaugomsky North-South (combined route, category 2B, fig. 20, 29). The path from the Tsей Alpine Camp (TsAL) or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom plateau under the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevasses) approach the base of the North ridge of the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif across the snow plateau, and, crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy slope to the North ridge. Along the gently sloping snowy North ridge (cornices) and a small rocky ascent — ascent to the North summit of the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif. From the North summit, a short descent towards the Central summit. Further along the gently sloping snowy ridge (cornices), then across simple rocks — ascend to the Central

135. VTSSPS-Karaugomsky South — North (combined route, category 2B, Fig. 20, 29). The path from the Tsey region KSP or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugomsky plateau under the VTSSPS-Karaugomsky massif is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevices), approach the right side of the saddle connecting Bokos to VTSSPS-Karaugomsky across the plateau. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund using a snow bridge, and ascend 80–100 m up the snowy slope to the snowy saddle (belay). On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snowy slope, then a simple rock ascent leads to the South ridge of the VTSSPS-Karaugomsky massif. Further along the long, simple, heavily destroyed, and snow-covered South ridge with numerous simple gendarmes, approach the rock ascent to the South summit. Ascend the 15–20-meter wall (loose rocks — piton belay) to the South summit. From the South summit, traverse along the simple, heavily destroyed rock ridge to approach the wall of the Central summit and ascend it straight up (loose rocks — belay) to the Central summit of the massif. From the Central summit, traverse along the long, gently sloping snow ridge (cornices) to reach the North summit. From the North summit, make a short descent onto the snowy North ridge and then descend along it (cornices), followed by its right slope, overcoming the bergschrund in the lower part, and descend rightward onto the Central branch of the Karaugomsky plateau. The duration of the route is 6–8 hours excluding approaches. Fig. 29

Fig. 28 121. Dubl' pik Severny (4516 m) via Western slope (combined route, P. Glebova, category 3A, Fig. 28). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzhinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the platforms (closed crevasses), go along the snowy plateau of the Central branch to the left side of the wide snowy slope descending from the saddle between the peaks of Dubl' pik. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy slope to the right side of the Western ridge of Severny Dubl' pik. From Tsey-Karaugom pass, it is better to approach here by traversing a steep snowy slope, bypassing the western slopes of the Western ridge of Yuzhny Dubl' pik above the bergschrund (avalanches - insurance). Further, along a steep icy-snowy slope, sometimes along simple rocks on the right side of the Western edge of Severny Dubl' pik (rope insurance), there is an ascent of 500-600 m to the saddle between the peaks. There is a large cornice on the east side of the saddle. The path from the saddle to Severny Dubl' pik is described in route 122. From the initial bivouac - 5-8 hours. Descent is made via the ascent route or through the Southern peak (see routes 122, 117). The duration of the route is 2-3 days. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Fig. 28 119. Dubl pik Se­ver­ny (4516 m) via East slope (route is combined, G. Belikova, 3B cat. dif., fig. 28). The path from CSP of Tsey region (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Severnaya branch of Tsey glacier opposite the col of Dubl pik is described in route 83. From the bivouac, descend to the center of the ice-snow slope descending from the col between the South and North summits of Dubl pik across the glacier plateau. A large snow cornice overhangs from the col.

From the overnight stay on the Tsейский glacier plateau below Mazа Dublyor peak, the route goes in the direction of the Northeast Ridge. Approach the ridge from its left side, through the bergschrund in the area of the avalanche gully, onto the snowy slope. Up the slope (40 m) to a rocky outcrop. Along the rocky outcrop on snow (120 m) to the right into the first couloir. Cross the second avalanche gully and on snow (60 m) to the rocks. On rocks of medium difficulty to the ridge beyond the first "gendarme". Traverse over the ridge to the shoulder — the first control cairn. From the cairn along the ridge, bypass a small "gendarme" on the left (possible to bypass on the right — 1 piton) to the wall. Up the wall (40 m, 80°). The wall rocks are heavily destroyed (rockfall hazard — piton belay). The wall initially traverses right and up (30 m), then straight up to the second large "gendarme". Further on the steep, crumbly ridge (120 m) to the wall. Up the wall (45–50 m) to the third "gendarme" (the wall of the "gendarme" has a large number of holds and "live" rocks, piton belay). From the "gendarme", descend along the snowy ridge, abutting the pre-summit wall. The steepness of the ridge is initially 25–30°, at the top up to 70° (belay via ice axe and ice screws). Along the ridge, initially keeping away from the cornice, then to the right (90 m), and then straight up under the rocks. The entire ridge is 250–300 m. Up the roc- (over 80 m) / to the pre-summit wall. Wall-

Fig. 19 77. Tajmazi East — West (combined route, 4A cat. of difficulty, Fig. 19). The path from the "Tajmazi" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of East Tajmazi is described in route 72. From the East summit, descend along a simple rocky ridge in the direction of the Central summit. Then, along a wide, long snow-covered simple rocky ridge, bypassing numerous small gendarmes on the left and overcoming only one head-on, then along a simple wide snow-covered ridge, ascend to Central Tajmazi. From the East summit, it takes 2 hours 30 minutes. From the Central summit, descend along a wide steep snowy ridge towards the West summit onto a snowy saddle. From the saddle, along a wide ledge, then along the inner corner of the left side of the ridge, ascend to under the summit tower of the VII gendarme (first from the Central summit). Bypass the tower on the right, then rappel onto the saddle under the VI Double-Humped gendarme. Along rocks of above-average difficulty, ascend a 15-20-meter wall onto the gendarme. From the Double-Humped gendarme, make a sports descent onto a snowy saddle. From the saddle, along rocks of above-average difficulty, ascend 45-50 meters onto the V gendarme (pitons insurance). From it, descend using sports equipment. Then, along a narrow ridge, passing small gendarmes head-on, approach the IV gendarme, overcome it head-on along rocks of average difficulty, and descend onto the saddle under the III gendarme. Bypass the III and II gendarmes along ledges and rocks of average difficulty (pitons insurance) on the right side of the ridge, then ascend a 15-meter wall onto the saddle under the I gendarme. Overcome the gendarme head-on and along a snowy (cornices), then narrow rocky ridge, ascend to the summit of West Tajmazi. The route includes the following sections: