Snapshot from the Transcarpathian summit

Photo 1. Its profile — the western wall of the 5th Koronna tower (view from the Izyiskatel summit, 1966, after bad weather)

View — from Hira, from Akcha-Koro

1. Traverse v. Uchitel', 4527 m — v. Kaichechekay, 4515 m, 2B — 7.08.84, Pronin M. — team leader, Timoshenko T., Fyodorov S., Timofeyev A.

The ridge is 9-10 m long, traversed astride. Further, a narrow inclined ridge expands to 20 m and is covered with large talus, leading to the summit. The ridge is 150 m long. The summit is a talus-covered area. To the north, a ridge with a steepness of 60° descends. To the east, west, and south, it drops off with walls. The route is classified as a wall climb and is distinguished by strong psychological impacts, as one has to work on a wall with a 500–600 m drop. Descent is via the ascent route. This ascent took 15 hours; 28 ice screws and 21 rock pitons were hammered in. The ascent is rated as 4A category of difficulty.

Ascent route to

p. Koshevoi 4550 m via 10,9 edge 3A cat. diff. R5 80 ­× 50° III R5 80 ­× 50° III R5 90 ­× 50° III R5 80 ­× 50° III R1 400 ­× 30° I

The rocks in the chimney are loose in places. There are ledges for belaying. The chimney leads to the summit ridge. The further path along the ridge to the summit is not difficult. The summit is a small "candlestick". Descent is via the ascent route. The route takes 6–8 hours, including:

• 6–7 hours — difficult rock climbing on the upper part of the wall, with a 500 m drop below. This produces a very strong psychological impact. 12 pitons are hammered in along the entire route. Despite the fact that the route is quite short, it is considered one of the very difficult routes of cat. grade 3B.

of medium difficulty. The rocks lead to a narrow ridge "п­Л­ЛЕ", about 100 m long. The section is very tense, requiring careful belaying through pitons and ledges, the latter needing to be thoroughly tested. The last part of the section (15 m) is overcome by sitting astride. The ridge leads to the 1st gendarme. Next is a small depression in the ridge. A rocky bridge leads to the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed along a scree shelf on the left (60 m). The shelf leads to the right side of the ridge and ends abruptly. Then, we traverse the gendarme to the right along complex rocks into a large internal angle. This is one of the key sections of the route. Its length is about 50 m. The section requires thorough piton belaying. The rocks lead to a small shelf where all participants can gather. From the shelf, we ascend along an internal angle (70°–40 m). The rocks are complex, requiring piton belaying. The angle leads to the shoulder of the gendarme, the upper part of which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Next comes a very jagged, sharp ridge — 40 m. The section requires careful belaying. The ridge leads to a sheer wall 30 m. A "sitting" descent is organized. From the bridge, we ascend along a rocky wall 15 m, 50° and descend a little below the ridge. Here, on a small shelf, a bivouac is organized. The journey from the 1st bivouac to the 2nd takes 11 hours. Day III: from the bivouac site, a small descent along rocks leads to a steep 60° rocky ascent of the ridge. The first 80 m of the ascent are traversed along scree shelves, leading to a rocky wall. The wall begins with rocks resembling lake ice (40 m — 45), which are relatively easy to traverse. Then, it is necessary to move traverse to the right onto the ridge along a narrow rocky shelf with thorough piton belaying. We are on the right side of the ridge.

has cornices hanging to the north. In the upper part, the ridge has two ascents. The first one is easy to pass. The second one is a climb to the dome of the summit — an ice slope, (left side of the ridge by the route) 50 m long, 50° steep. On the slope, you need to:

• move left,
• cut through the cornice on the southern ridge,
• reach a simple slope, which after 15–20 m leads to the summit. The summit is a snowy dome with rock outcrops on the southwest side, where a tur is built. Descent from the summit follows the ascent route down to the lowering in the ridge (a hollow) with convenient platforms. Here, an overnight stay is organized. Further from the overnight stay, you need to:

Peak Pastukhova and the ridge to the Alamedin Teeth.