Dedicated to the 100th anniversary of V. I. Lenin's birth

Report

on the traverse: Peak 6200 – Peak E. Korzhenevskoi – Peak Chetyrekh, made by the team of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Education and Sports on July 28 – August 15, 1969, for the USSR Climbing Championship 1969 in the traverse category. The traversed peaks are located in the northwestern Pamir, in the Muk-su river basin. The most significant meridional ridge of the Pamir – the Academy of Sciences Range – branches out in its northern part. From Peak Akhmat Donish (6665 m) to the northwest, a powerful spur extends, bearing the peaks:

• Peak Chetyrekh (6380 m);
• Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m);
• Peak 6200. After Peak 6200, the spur sharply descends towards Muk-su.

Report

on the first ascent of Pik Medvezhiy (approx. height — 4800 m) via the West Ridge. Approximate difficulty category — 3B.

Leningrad

1979 → → — group route

Route description

Map of the ascent area. The ascent on July 12, 1979, was made by a group from the Leningrad Regional Council of DOSAAF "Trud" consisting of: leader — Ivanov D.A., 2nd sports category; participants — Novikov E.D. — CMS; Li G.D. — 2nd sports category, Belyaev M.B. — 2nd sports category, Shevtsov S.E. — 2nd sports category. Pik Medvezhiy is located in the Central Pamir in the Western spur of the Akademiya Nauk range, dividing the valleys of the Medvezhiy glacier and the Abdukagor river (see orographic diagram). In the same spur are: — Pik Bastion (5626 m);

Report

On the ascent of the North Face of Pik OGPU (First Ascent) 5B

Kiev — 1966

Introduction

The object of the ascent, Pik OGPU, is located in the upper reaches of the Biivachny Glacier in the central Pamirs. This area is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is quite well studied both geographically and sportingly. However, until this season, no attempts had been made to ascend Pik OGPU. Our team became interested in Pik OGPU as an object of ascent back in 1964. Then, after a successful ascent of Pik Engels, our team leader V. M. Abalakov first told us about the north face of Pik OGPU, and also provided initial information about the face itself, the rocks, and the nature of ascents in this area. Over the past period, we managed to gather extensive material that gave a fairly complete picture of organizing an expedition to the upper reaches of the Biivachny Glacier, as well as the peaks, the nature of ascents, relief conditions, weather, etc. As a result of this preparatory work, the Central Council of the Spartak Sports Society announced Pik OGPU for the USSR championship in the 1966 season.

№	Surname, First Name, and Patronymic	Sports Rank	Year of Birth	Party Membership	Sports Experience	Profession	Place of Residence
1.	KUSTOVSKY Anatoly Alekseevich (team leader)	Master of Sports	1925	Non-partisan	Since 1949	Engineer	Kiev, Druzhby Narodov St., 18a, apt. 14

Central Council of the Spartak Sports Society

Report

on the ascent of Peak OGPU via the right central wall (first ascent). Nalchik, 1968

Brief information about the object and the ascent area

Peak OGPU is located in the Central Pamir in the upper reaches of the Bivachny Glacier (see diagram). The area is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well-studied both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. However, the only ascent to Peak OGPU was made in 1966 by a team from the Central Council of Spartak led by A. Kustovsky via the North wall with an exit to the northeast counterfort (see photo No. 1). Peak OGPU, despite its relatively low height (6055 m), impresses everyone with its:

• beauty;
• grandeur;
• steep walls that rise to the summit from almost all sides. The easiest route to the summit is the descent route taken by Kustovsky's group (4B–5B category of difficulty):

–2– ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent Class — High-altitude Technical
2. Ascent Area — North-western Pamir. Okt. Magistral
3. Ascent Route — with indication of the summit and its height Peak Miroshkin (5900) via the south-eastern spur, approximately 5A cat. dif. (first ascent)
4. Ascent Characteristics — height difference — 1200 m average steepness — 45° length of complex section — 100 m

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Traverse of Western Pamir

Passport

Class of traverses Western Pamir Traverse of peaks 6280–6600–6840–6701–7495 Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent Length 14480 m, max. elevation difference — 2895 m Pitons hammered:

• rock — 42
• ice — 144

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Report

On the first ascent of the route to peak Osypnoy via the north-west ridge, category 4A (approximately), accomplished by a "two-person team" from the KBVO training camp on August 12, 1979. TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route Team captain M. Sabirov Base camp of the KBVO training camp ↓ overnight stay location — route of movement. Brief description of the approach to the route. From the base camp, located near the lakes on the bank of the Vanch River, follow the road to the bridge over the Abdukagor River (0.3 hours). Cross the bridge. To the left, a trail begins, leading to the start of the Russian Geographic Society glacier. Follow it to the lateral moraine (1 hour). Then along the moraine (cairns) to the stream flowing from the slopes of peak Osypnoy and v. Krasnoarmeets. Up the stream to a large boulder. Overnight stay (camping site). www.alpfederation.ru![img-2.jpeg]({"width":2328,"height":1601,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/O34S8jYJsRflYhiikg4lWtqTcFnmrt0v/img-2.jpeg","id":64763968})

Ascent Description of the Unnamed Peak "Patriot Peak" 6350 m

The unnamed peak with an elevation of 6350 m above sea level, conditionally named "Patriot Peak", is located in the southern spur of the Akademiya Nauk range, branching off from the Molotov Glacier, at the fork of the Garmo and Vavilov Glaciers, and separates the basins of the Belyaev and Vavilov Glaciers. See the sketch, figure 1. The ascent to the unnamed peak 6350 m, named "Patriot Peak", was made by the Lokomotiv Sports Society team via the southwest ridge. The starting point of the ascent is the "Sarmot" camp on the moraine, at the fork of the Vavilov and Garmo Glaciers. The camp was named due to the large number of marmots inhabiting the surrounding area. The camp's elevation is 4000 m above sea level. From the Sarmot camp, the ascent goes along the moraines on the right orographic side of the 1st northern tributary of the Vavilov Glacier. At an elevation of 4500 m in the cirque of this tributary, the first camp is set up. On the second day of the ascent, it is necessary to: – cross the glacier; – ascend to the shoulder of the southwest ridge. The path goes through extremely steep firn slopes, intersected by numerous crevasses. It is necessary to wear crampons and move in teams. The overall slope steepness is 35–40°, with a height gain of about 400 m. The direct ascent to the shoulder is made via a steep firn-ice ridge. It is necessary to overcome two steep ice sections: – the first — 80 m, steepness 60°;

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THIS ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE MEMBERS OF THE GROUP WHO DIED ON PIK PATRIOT IN 1953 Protocol No. 201 dated November 2, 1962 5B+1

Description of the Ascent to Pik Patriot

Ascent to Pik Patriot via the western ridge (Pamir, Garmo Glacier), July 1962. Group of the joint Soviet-British expedition to Pamir. July 26, 1962. Pik Patriot is located in the Academy of Sciences Range (Fig. 1). The first ascent to Pik Patriot (then known as Peak 6350 m) was made by a group of climbers from the "Lokomotiv" society led by B. Garf in 1950 via the southwest ridge, categorized as 5B. Garf, with the aim of scouting approaches to Pik Kommunizma, ascended to the upper cirque below Pik Patriot (photo 2) to traverse the spur extending from the Academy of Sciences Range (the western ridge of Pik Patriot). Garf wrote about the ascent options to Pik Patriot: "It was not possible to traverse the spur: it rose as a 300-meter wall (see photo 3)."

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich