Peak Korzhenevskoi via NE ridge Leader: Sivtsov B. 1968 Received on October 3 Date of mailing from Donetsk by post September 28, 1968

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION CS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Report

on the first ascent of the southern ridge of Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) by the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" team Team Captain /V. Tsetlin/ Coach /V. Smit/ Moscow, 1966 Fig. 2. Scheme of ascent to Peak E. Korzhenevskaya. The scheme indicates the sections shown on the profile map.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area - Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak E. Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, east face 4. Proposed difficulty category - highest 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 2600 m, average slope - 55°, length of sections with 5th difficulty category - 525 m. 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors (I.T.O.) rock 21, 8 ice 30, 2

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2800 m, route length 5000 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 3000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 50° (5100–6100 m).
6. Pitons used: rock 23/0

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the triangle of the Western wall
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Height difference: 1900 m, length — 3305 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 765 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°. Of which 6 cat. diff. — 85°–120 m.
6. Pitons driven:

Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m

Left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge

led by Chochia P.A. 1988

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range, section №4.1 of the route classifier on mountain peaks.
2. Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge.
3. Proposed: 5B — 6A difficulty category (first ascent).
4. Route character: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1800 m. Route length: 2900 m. Length of sections:

70 Б13

GEORGIAN ALPINE CLUB
named after A. DJAPARIDZE ASCENT TO PEAK EVGENY KORZHENEVSKY (7105 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE
REPORT Tbilisi — 1973
Team Leader: D. Dangadze Peak E. Korzhenevsky (7105 m) massif.

Dedicated to the 100th anniversary of V. I. Lenin's birth

Report

on the traverse: Peak 6200 – Peak E. Korzhenevskoi – Peak Chetyrekh, made by the team of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Education and Sports on July 28 – August 15, 1969, for the USSR Climbing Championship 1969 in the traverse category. The traversed peaks are located in the northwestern Pamir, in the Muk-su river basin. The most significant meridional ridge of the Pamir – the Academy of Sciences Range – branches out in its northern part. From Peak Akhmat Donish (6665 m) to the northwest, a powerful spur extends, bearing the peaks:

• Peak Chetyrekh (6380 m);
• Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m);
• Peak 6200. After Peak 6200, the spur sharply descends towards Muk-su.

Report

on the first ascent of Pik Medvezhiy (approx. height — 4800 m) via the West Ridge. Approximate difficulty category — 3B.

Leningrad

1979 → → — group route

Route description

Map of the ascent area. The ascent on July 12, 1979, was made by a group from the Leningrad Regional Council of DOSAAF "Trud" consisting of: leader — Ivanov D.A., 2nd sports category; participants — Novikov E.D. — CMS; Li G.D. — 2nd sports category, Belyaev M.B. — 2nd sports category, Shevtsov S.E. — 2nd sports category. Pik Medvezhiy is located in the Central Pamir in the Western spur of the Akademiya Nauk range, dividing the valleys of the Medvezhiy glacier and the Abdukagor river (see orographic diagram). In the same spur are: — Pik Bastion (5626 m);

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich