Kuba-Kaya — 1. “Right to Left”

Difficulty: 5B VI A2 Authors: A. Lav­ri­nen­ko, P. Shvets Year of creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 11 Length: 405 m Time to complete: 6–8 hours Route description: The route goes to the left of the center of the wall along a series of internal corners, bypassing large cornices on the upper part of the wall from the left. The approach to the route is to the left of the lower bastion, through the forest for about 100 meters. R0–R1: 55 m Start on a grey slab, direction towards the trees, then on easy rocks to a large grassy terrace. 10 m V; 45 m II R1–R4: Along an inclined grassy terrace upwards to the right to a belt of rocks. 100 m easy R2–R3: 30 m. Upwards on uncomplicated rocks to a group of trees. Belay station on a large juniper. II R3–R4: 45 m. From the juniper upwards, through a slightly overhanging 10-meter wall onto a ledge, then climbing upwards to the right to a large juniper.

• 10 m VIA2

Kuba­ — Kaya — 2. «Odessa 09»

Massif: Kuba­ — Kaya (662 m) Complexity: 5B VI A2 Author: Lavri­nen­ko A., Tsush­ko T., Kuzmen­ko Kolya Number of sections: 7 Length: 395 m Route description: The route passes to the left of the center of the wall along a series of internal corners, bypassing large cornices on the left in the upper part of the wall. Approach to the route is to the left of the lower bastion, through the forest for about 100 meters. R0­–R1: 55 m. Start along a gray slab, direction towards the trees, then along simple rocks to a large grassy terrace. 10 m V; 45 m II

Kuba­Kaya — 3. "Zigzag"

Massif: Kuba­Kaya (662 m) Authors: A. Lavrinenko, A. Kuzmenko Year of route creation: 2009 Route description:

• R0­–R1: 55 m Start on a gray slab, direction towards the trees, then on easy rocks to a large grassy terrace. 10 m V; 45 m II R1­–R2: On an inclined grassy terrace up to the right to a belt of rocks. 100 m easy R2­–R3: 45 m. From the grassy terrace upwards, to 2 m large junipers, station on the left one. III R3­–R4: 40 m. To the right, into an inner corner. Up the corner, then on easy rocks to the right upwards, in the direction of a rusty streak. Station on a tree. II

Ascent Certificate

1. Rock climbing category
2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak: Kush-Kaya
4. Route: Via the Southwest wall and internal angle (classic)
5. Difficulty category: 1B
6. Route characteristics: height difference — 440 m, length — 550 m, average steepness — 55°
7. Pitons used: rock — 8
8. Duration: ascent — 2.5 hours,

ASCENT PASS

1. Type — Rock climbing
2. Region — Crimea, Bati-Liman
3. Peak — Kush-Kaya
4. Route — Via the right section of the Southeast wall
5. Difficulty category — 2B
6. Route description: Elevation gain — 240 m, length — 280 m, average slope — 59°
7. Equipment used: Rock pitons — 4 pcs., chocks — 5 pcs.
8. Duration: Climbing time — 3 hrs, descent via trail — 0.5 hrs.
9. Leader: Vorobyev Mikhail Yuryevich

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Rock climbing category 2. Area: Crimea, Batiliman 3. Peak: Kush-Kaya 4. Route: via the buttress of the South wall, "mitten" 5. Climbing category: 4A 6. Route description: height difference - 390 m, length - 500 m, average slope - 51° 7. Equipment used: rock pitons - 22 pcs. 8. Time taken: 6 hours, descent via trail - 0.5 hours 9. Leader: Tkachenko Georgiy Aleksandrovich

Route №10 «Diagonal»

5A V+ A2 520 m (12 pitches). Average time to complete — 5–7 hours. The route goes through a diagonal groove that crosses the southern wall bowl from right to left. Its upper part coincides with Route №7 «Classic». The route is interesting. However, it is not popular because the diagonal groove in its middle part is heavily overgrown:

• with grass
• with bushes The path from the parking lot to the start of the route takes about 40 minutes. Follow the trail to climb to the foot of the rocks in the «Roping Ground» sector. Move along the grassy ledge with trees going up and to the left, heading west, and reach a large terrace. From here:
• Climb 15 m up the moderately difficult rocks to the next large terrace.
• Continue moving along the terrace to the west towards the base of a wide internal angle with a tree growing nearby.
• Start the route from here. R0–R1: 40 m. Move up and to the left along the internal angle for 20 m, then make a difficult traverse to the right to a rocky ledge. Follow it up and to the right to a group of strawberry trees.

Ascent Passport

I. Rock class 2. Region Crimea, Batiliman 3. Peak Kush-Kaya 4. Route through the center of the Southeast wall, "integral" 5. Complexity category 5A 6. Route characteristics: height difference — 290 m length — 320 m average steepness — 65° 7. Used pitons: rock — 12 pcs.

Kush-Ka­ya, Se­nokos route, 5B (M. Volo­sha­nov­sky — S. Nad­to­chiy)

The route was started on January 6, 1994, by Simferopol climbers S. Nadtochiy (Ter­ror­ist) and M. Voloshanovsky (Mi­shel). Completed in May 1994 by Ter­ror­ist solo. The perilous ropes hung until 1996, and in the upper part of the R3–R4 section, they still hang. The route is rarely climbed, and not everyone reaches the end. The route is a natural wa­ter­course, which is why from May to October the cracks are clogged with earth and grass, so Ter­ror­ist named his route "Se­nokos" (Hay­cut). In winter, the route is much more pleasant, but you still have to do some "gar­den­ing". The route starts 20 m to the right of the split, along which the first rope (not counting the ap­proach) of the "Pray­aya shtan­i­na" (Right pant leg) route 5B passes. Kush-Ka­ya, routes R0–R1: From the knocked-out piton arrow straight up along a thin crack for 10 m, then along a slab towards a bol­ted hook. From the hook to the left upwards, to a ledge under the over­hang. The over­hang is passed on the right side (there is a bolt). Sta­tion in a grot­to. 35 m 80° V+A2 R1–R2: From the sta­tion upwards along the left wall of the grot­to for 5 m on aid (bolt, sky­hooks), then by com­plex free climb­ing along the crack, exit to an over­hang. Through the over­hang on bolts, exit to the sta­tion. 30 m 85° VI A2

"Surprise" 1B cat. diff. (Merdven–Kaya)

The wall is located to the left of the "Chertova lestnitsa" pass. 3-4 km from the forester's house towards Yalta along the road. 0-1

• Turn from the road onto the trail leading to the "Chertova lestnitsa" pass (the trail is well-marked with arrows).
• Ascend along the trail to the ridge, traverse it, and climb (15-20 m) easy rock onto a ledge. R1-R2. Continue left-up towards the ridge. Reach the ridge and ascend simple rocks (200 m) up (either along the center of the ridge or keeping to its right side).