Kush-Ka­ya, Se­nokos route, 5B (M. Volo­sha­nov­sky — S. Nad­to­chiy)

The route was started on January 6, 1994, by Simferopol climbers S. Nadtochiy (Ter­ror­ist) and M. Voloshanovsky (Mi­shel). Completed in May 1994 by Ter­ror­ist solo. The perilous ropes hung until 1996, and in the upper part of the R3–R4 section, they still hang. The route is rarely climbed, and not everyone reaches the end.

The route is a natural wa­ter­course, which is why from May to October the cracks are clogged with earth and grass, so Ter­ror­ist named his route "Se­nokos" (Hay­cut). In winter, the route is much more pleasant, but you still have to do some "gar­den­ing".

The route starts 20 m to the right of the split, along which the first rope (not counting the ap­proach) of the "Pray­aya shtan­i­na" (Right pant leg) route 5B passes.

Kush-Ka­ya, routes

R0–R1: From the knocked-out piton arrow straight up along a thin crack for 10 m, then along a slab towards a bol­ted hook. From the hook to the left upwards, to a ledge under the over­hang. The over­hang is passed on the right side (there is a bolt). Sta­tion in a grot­to. 35 m 80° V+A2

R1–R2: From the sta­tion upwards along the left wall of the grot­to for 5 m on aid (bolt, sky­hooks), then by com­plex free climb­ing along the crack, exit to an over­hang. Through the over­hang on bolts, exit to the sta­tion. 30 m 85° VI A2

R2–R3: Along the crack, then along the in­ter­nal corner upwards by free climb­ing, some­times on aid. Sta­tion on 2 bolts be­fore an over­hang. 30 m 75° V+A2

R3­–­R4: Along a steep crack up­wards, exit to a ledge. From it, traverse to the right, to an­other crack. Along the crack up­wards to the left, through a small over­hang, exit to a shelf. From the shelf along the in­ter­nal corner, exit to a large hor­i­zon­tal shelf. Here the route joins the "Sht­a­ny" (Pants) route. 50 m, 80°, VI A3. R4­–­R5: From the sta­tion up­wards along the crack to a small tree. Further along the corner up­wards. The over­hang is passed on the left, then up­wards through a small over­hang, exit to a wall with bolts. Along the wall by com­plex free climb­ing, exit to the yay­la. 50 m, 85°, VI A1

Source: alpinist.biz