ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Rock climbing category 2. Area: Crimea, Batiliman 3. Peak: Kush-Kaya 4. Route: via the buttress of the South wall, "mitten" 5. Climbing category: 4A 6. Route description: height difference - 390 m, length - 500 m, average slope - 51° 7. Equipment used: rock pitons - 22 pcs. 8. Time taken: 6 hours, descent via trail - 0.5 hours 9. Leader: Tkachenko Georgiy Aleksandrovich Team members: Vorobyev Mikhail Yuryevich Savchenko Dmitriy Danilovich 10. Coach: Vorobyev Mikhail Yuryevich 11. Ascent date: May 9, 1978 12. Organization: CFK "Chernomorets"

KUSH-KAYA via the buttress of the S wall, "mitten" 4A category

Approach from the belay station along the ledge left-upwards, then 20 m up the cracks to a large terrace under the yellow overhanging rocks.

R0–R1: Start of the route is about 50 m left of the yellow overhanging rocks. Climb up an inner corner turning into a system of cracks to a ledge (30 m), move right along a steep slab with holes to a diagonal ledge, and along it 25 m right and around the corner to the start of the right side of the "crocodile" protuberance.

R1–R2: From under the base of the chimney, traverse right through a tree to a ledge, along it to the end, then a bit more right and up through cracks using footholds to two large pine trees; 50 m.

R2–R3: Left along the ledge and up an inner corner to another pine tree, and further to the next tree; 50 m.

R3–R4: Exit into thicket, and along slabs towards a crack on the left side of the buttress; 130 m.

R4–R5: Climb 30 m up the crack, then exit right to a ledge under an overhanging boulder. Traverse along the ledge, then to a tree (15-20 m).

R5–R6: From the tree climb 40 m up cracks to a large ledge with a tree left of the "mitten".

R6–R7: Up past the tree through a crack "on tension". Higher, the crack curves right and ends on a ledge at the top of the "mitten"; 40-45 m.

R7–R8: 5 m left is a vertical crack, climb it to a wide crack - "sickle" - then along the "sickle" to a ruined inner corner and up it to a tree; 30 m.

R8–R9: Climb 15 m up the inner corner, then move right over a rock to a tree on a platform.

R9–R10: From the tree right-up to a small inner corner, under it is a cornice. Move left under the cornice (15 m). Exit to the summit through a wedged boulder.

Necessary equipment:

• rope - 50 m
• chocks - 8-10 pcs.
• rock pitons - 2-3 pcs.

KUSH-KAYA via the buttress of the S wall, "mitten" 4A category