International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004

Reports on First Ascents

in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs on the peaks of the Rushan and M Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin - First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Head Coach

10

Ascent Passport

10. Category of first ascents.
11. Region: Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Ridge.
12. Peak CHOTAGAY (6133 m) via the S-3 counterfort of the wall, rock route.
13. Proposed category of complexity — 5B, first ascent.
14. Height difference — 1300 m, length — 1680 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route — 62° (5050–6000 m). Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 710 m, ~45–50°.
15. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category – wall climbing
2. Ascent area – Muzkol, Central Pamir
3. Peak 5660 via the right counterfort of the Northwest wall, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B–6A
5. Characteristics of the route: Total route length – 1210 m. Length of wall section – 680 m. Length of V–VI category – 554 m. Of which VI category – 155 m. Average steepness of the wall section – 81°. Height difference – 860 m.
6. Number of pitons used:

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — wall climb
2. Climbing area — Pamir, Muzkol Ridge
3. Peak 5660 via NW wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B, first ascent
5. Height difference — 960 m Of which:

• wall — 800 m
• length — 1075 m
• length of wall section — 875 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Muzkolsky Ridge
3. Peaks: 5860–5980 along the E ridge
4. Proposed category of complexity — 5A, first ascent
5. Height difference — 885 m Of which:

• along the E ridge to the saddle — 545 m
• along the S ridge of p. 5860 — 110 m
• along the N ridge to p. 5980 — 230 m

1. Class of ascent

• Altitude-technical;

2. Region of ascent

• North-West Pamir, Petra Pervogo Ridge;

3. Peak, its height, route

• peak Evgenia Abalakova, 6446 m via the north face;

4. Estimated difficulty category

• Sixth;

5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 2300 m;

1. Climbing category – high-altitude and technical
2. Climbing region, ridge – Pamir, Fortambek glacier, Peter I Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, route – Peak E. Abalakova, 6446 m, via the N wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category – 5B (second ascent)
5. Route characteristics: height difference 2350 m length of difficult sections 5–6 cat. of difficulty 1410 m average steepness 66°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying – 163, for creating artificial anchors – 0 steel – 148 (15 of them at bivouacs), ice – 15, bolt – 0

1. CLIMBING CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
2. CLIMBING REGION — PAMIR, FORTAMBEK GLACIER
3. CLIMBING ROUTE WITH SUMMIT HEIGHT — FIRST ASCENT, NORTH WALL OF PEAK E. ABALAKOV, 6446 m
4. CLIMBING CHARACTERISTICS:
   • HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 2350 m
   • AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 66°
   • LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS — 1250 m
5. PITS SET:
   • ROCK PITS — 173
   • ICE PITS — 51

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area — Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Abalakov via the north face (Georgian route), height 6446 m
4. Difficulty category — 6B complexity category
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 2350 m. Average slope — 58°. Section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — absent, 2nd cat. diff. — absent, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 900 m, 4–5 cat. diff. — 1080 m, 5th cat. diff. — 960 m, 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m. Total length from the bergschrund — 3580 m
6. Pitons used for protection: | Rock pitons | - | 156 |

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: