Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Bolshoy Chimgan via the Left Counterfort of the Wall, Category 3B

February 6, 1978

We depart from the base camp located in the Ak-Sai valley at 10:00. We ascend to the Western Ridge via a Category 1B route. Upon reaching the junction of the Western Ridge and a false ridge (joining from the right), we descend with a slight traverse of the Western Ridge towards the summit. Descending into the Belder-Sai valley, we move upstream until the confluence of three couloirs. We continue up the left couloir. Approaching the wall, it's easy to identify the counterfort, which the route follows, forming the right side of the central couloir that divides the entire Belder-Sai rock massif into two parts. The route begins from a cave located at the boundary between snow and rock, one rope length away from the left edge of the counterfort. The cave provides a good overnight stay and has a guiding cairn. The entire approach took 9–10 hours.

February 7, 1978

Departure at 9:30.

R1

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Western Tien Shan, Chatkal Ridge, Kara-Tako gorge
3. Peak "4170" via the northeastern wall
4. Proposed - 5B cat. sl. first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 900 m, length - 1335 m. Wall section elevation gain - 750 m, length - 985 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. sl. - 494 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 67° (3270–4020), including 6 cat. sl.: 95–100° (3350–3370); 80–110° (3390–3420); 75° (3525–3600); 70–90° (3635–3670); 105° (3835–3840).
6. Pitons driven: | Rock Pitons | Nuts | Bolts | | :---------: | :--: | :---: |

From bivouac 3300 "Майские ночёвки", located on the Manas glacier moraine, entrance on the right side (in the direction of travel) of the glacier - 2 hours walk under the saddle. Ascent to the saddle on a snowy slope 30-35°, between Bokovoy Manas and Manas Glavny. Here you should rope up. Further movement along the Bokovoe ridge, on large-block talus, steepness 30-35°; movement - 1 hour. From the ridge, descend into a 10 m gap, handrails are necessary, protection via ledges, pitons. Further ascent to the summit on talus, here too handrails are recommended.

The approach from the "Майские ночёвки" bivouac. From the campsite, ascend to the North ridge. Further movement is upwards along the ridge, sticking to either the left or the right side. On average, after one hour of walking, two massive gendarmes are encountered (one after another), before which it is necessary to rope up. Then:

• A small saddle
• Control cairn I (landmark - a high finger-shaped rock) Further movement is along the ridge, with a rapid gain in altitude. Against the sky above, a massive gendarme in the form of a trident can be seen, 80-100 meters to the left of the route, which is approached by the Northeast ridge. The approach to the base of the gendarme is via moderately difficult rocks. A small wall, 2-2.5 m high, is tackled directly head-on. Then, the entire massif of the gendarme is traversed from the left along inclined ledges (in the autumn-winter period, these are snow-covered), 10-12 m - a bumpy section, with piton belays. From the inclined slabs, there is an exit onto a sharp rocky outcrop, about 4 m high. There is a small platform for organizing a belay. Then, along the crumbling rocks of the ridge, 15-20 m to the descent point to the base of the snow-ice dome of the summit. The descent is via a rappel dolipher, 10-12 m with a steepness of 70°. There is a possibility to organize a descent with subsequent rope retrieval through a protrusion.

Departure from the 3300 "May overnight stay" site, which is located on the left-bank moraine of the Manas glacier. Departure from the assault camp at 7:00. The approach to the route goes along the left-bank moraine. The route starts with a wide scree couloir, which descends from the East Ridge. The couloir is passed in 2 hours. The entrance to the ridge is a landmark - an inclined slab. Behind the slab, a sharp snow ridge begins - I5, 20 m. Between it and the inclined slab is the first checkpoint. Here, tie in, insurance is alternate through ledges and ice axe. On the ridge, there is a group of rocks that are bypassed on the left. Movement - 3 hours. Before reaching the big gendarme, traverse the slope from the left side along rocks of medium difficulty with a descent into a wide snow couloir. Careful insurance through ledges and rock pitons. Further ascent along the couloir to the snow saddle - 2 hours. From the saddle, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (40 m), insurance through ledges and pitons. From the rocks, exit to the snow dome (100 m) and the summit. Descent along coarse-block scree to the saddle between Bashennый Manas and Manas Glavny. Total travel hours - 11 hours.

2. Region of ascent, ridge — C-3 Tian-Shan Talass­ky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pikovyy Manas 4512, traverse via N ridge. 4th category 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2A
4. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of sections with 1–5 cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 1200 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 1400 m, II cat. diff. — 650 m — II cat. diff. — 20 m
5. Number of pitons driven for belay to create reliable anchor points: rock — 3 pcs., ice — none, bolt — none
6. Construction of via ferrata — 8
7. Number of nights and their characteristics — none

The exit to the route is carried out from the overnight stay at 3300 — DMaiskie nochyovki on the moraine of the Manas glacier. On the right side of the glacier, we approach the NE wall of p. Bashkyn Manas. To the west of the wall, a saddle is visible. Ascent to the saddle:

• Takes 1.5 hours.
• Must be done early in the morning with crampons. From the saddle, the route goes along the snowy ridge to a gendarme 7–10 m high, which is passed directly, medium-difficulty rocks (careful belay). Further, the route goes along a rocky, destroyed ridge 35–40°, gendarmeries encountered on the way are bypassed on the right along the way via easy rocks. 40–45 minutes after the start of movement from the saddle — a gap 2 m wide (pitons belay). Then movement along the ridge, consisting of large-block stones, to the summit tower 20–25 m high.

From the "Nefertiti" bivouac in the gorge between the Korona peak and down the scree along the Arabik river to the pass (2 hours). Straight up to the scree shoulder and right along the slope 35–40° (300 m) to the shoulder below the route. Left of the ridge along a snowy couloir (150 m, 30°) and right onto the rocks. Along broken rocks (50 m) to the "Bird" gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via a crack (6 m) and then from the rocks along the snow (60 m) - exit to the col (cornice). Elevation 3610 m, 1 hour from the shoulder. Along the ridge on rocks with simultaneous belay, mainly left of the ridge, on snow and rocks (100 m). Along a snowy slope 20 m, 35°, then straight up (3 m, 75°) and left 20 m to bypass a rocky gendarme. Then right into a crack (5 m) onto the ridge and along the ridge (8 m) on granite rocks (with belay). Along the ridge from the rocks on the left on snow (100 m) to grey rocks, up 10 m; then left - traverse along a ledge and up a crack (4 m). Left of the rocks on snow (cautiously, cornices) with rock outcrops (30°, 300 m) to the summit. The exit to the summit is from right to left. Elevation - 39 km. From the shoulder - 3 hours. 9 loops were used for belay.

7.14.15

Mt. Teke (3870 m) via North Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty (from "Nefertiti" campsite) Depart from "Nefertiti" bivouac — 2866 m. Cross to the opposite side of the Terek river, follow its left (orographic) bank downstream to the beginning of the rightmost, straightforward rib, and start ascending to the watershed ridge. Climbing in a rope team is required in the upper third of the rib; simultaneous insurance is used. There are sections a few meters long where alternate insurance is necessary. Reaching the ridge: beware of snow cornices! The ridge consists of severely degraded rocks. Move simultaneously, securing the rope to rock outcrops as needed; there are rock gendarmes on the ridge. All are bypassed on simple to moderate rocks to the right. Ahead lies the summit cairn near a geodetic trig point. From the summit, a panoramic view to the southwest is available. Western slopes are talus. Eastern slopes drop steeply with rugged ribs and couloirs. Descent: — Retrace the ascent route across the massif; — Then descend into a broad snow couloir between Mt. Teke and "4011" (35 let Pobedy);

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.