From the "Nefertiti" bivouac in the gorge between the Korona peak and down the scree along the Arabik river to the pass (2 hours). Straight up to the scree shoulder and right along the slope 35–40° (300 m) to the shoulder below the route.

Left of the ridge along a snowy couloir (150 m, 30°) and right onto the rocks. Along broken rocks (50 m) to the "Bird" gendarme, which is bypassed on the left via a crack (6 m) and then from the rocks along the snow (60 m) - exit to the col (cornice). Elevation 3610 m, 1 hour from the shoulder.

Along the ridge on rocks with simultaneous belay, mainly left of the ridge, on snow and rocks (100 m). Along a snowy slope 20 m, 35°, then straight up (3 m, 75°) and left 20 m to bypass a rocky gendarme. Then right into a crack (5 m) onto the ridge and along the ridge (8 m) on granite rocks (with belay). Along the ridge from the rocks on the left on snow (100 m) to grey rocks, up 10 m; then left - traverse along a ledge and up a crack (4 m).

Left of the rocks on snow (cautiously, cornices) with rock outcrops (30°, 300 m) to the summit.

The exit to the summit is from right to left. Elevation - 39 km. From the shoulder - 3 hours. 9 loops were used for belay.

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment