Ai-Petri — 11

Author: Sergey Dashkevich, Yekaterinburg. Photos: Sergey Dashkevich, Yevgeny Novose­ltsev The weather was quite harsh, but that's what makes it more interesting. The route goes up the right part of the wall almost vertically. The start of the route is 15 meters to the right of a clearly visible sport climbing multi-pitch line. The rock here is very similar to the rocks at Koshka in Simeiz. It features the same honeycombed cavities, which provide excellent friction and allow for free climbing in many places. The first five pitches of the route are the key ones:

• Very steep
• With rare relief
• It's impossible to move by free climbing, organizing self-belay,

Alupkinskaya Wall — 3B.

«Ulfhednar», via the grotto of the eastern sector of the Alupkinskaya Wall, 5B

The route's length (excluding approaches, 150–180 m, 1A–1Б category) is 320 m, of which:

• 4th category — 25–30 m.
• 5th category — 130–150 m.
• 6th category — 100–120 m. In sections of 6th category:
• ITO complexity A2 — 18–20 m.
• A2,5–A3 — 7–8 m.

Alupkinskaya Wall — 1. "Compromise"

Alpinism Written by Kopteva, March 23, 2011 1:25 Photo by Sergey Bolkin. It impresses. Not with the presence of many rated routes, not with technically "beyond" relief, not with a loud, famous name, not at all. The wall is attractive because climbing it is guaranteed to be a separate, vivid adventure.

• Grand scale.
• Remoteness.
• Perhaps one of the most serious elevation changes on the Southern Coast of Crimea (YSC).
• And most importantly — you will be the first, because there are very few routes here. Long approach and even more interesting descent (well, for Crimea, of course), absence of civilization, water, possibility to "get out" at the slightest inconvenience to a bar on the coast.

Arfen-Cher-Burun - 1. "Mirazh" Route 6A, VI, A

First ascenders: S. Streltsov - A. Lyapunov (1992) The section from Sevastopol to Balaklava is a sheer coast, in some places up to 200 m high. The area is heavily eroded. There are no cliffs suitable for climbing. Mt. Arfen-Cher-Burun, East wall. Arrows at the bottom indicate the route start To the east of Balaklava, the picture changes dramatically. About 5 km from Balaklava, along the coast, a 235-meter vertical rocky peak rises straight from the sea. This is a spur of the Arfen-Cher-Burun massif. It takes about 40 minutes to reach the foot of the wall by boat from Balaklava. Having a reliable floating craft is mandatory, as the first

Arfen-Cher-Burun — 2

Author: Pavel Slyusar, Kiev The story of climbing the "Rodeo" route 6A, VI, A3, 300 m To the southeast of Balaklava, approximately eight kilometers along the coastline, a 240-meter-high rock wall rises from the sea. This wall is a triangular-shaped cliff that closes the southwestern spur of the Arfen-Cher-Burun peak and is separated from the main massif by a deep gap. You can approach the foot of the wall by sea:

• in about an hour from Balaklava
• in half an hour from the Batiliman tract (Laspi settlement) The wall is striking in its steepness, regularity of shape, and smoothness of relief. It rises vertically from the sea and plunges just as vertically into the blue abyss to a depth of more than 80 meters. In the right part of the wall, like a silent guardian, a huge black cornice ominously overhangs the sea. When you sail away into the open sea, it becomes impossible to visually determine the proportions of the wall and the exact distance to it. Questions arise:

Arfen Cherburun — 3

Route scheme "Oba-Na!" cat. VI, m. Aya, "Arfen" peak (235.2 m) Streltsov S., Zakutin A. 13–18.07.2001.

Tactical tips for wall passage.

I. Basing in the mouth of the Kazán-Dere tract allows:

• to carry out landing from small vessels and evacuation in sea roughness up to 3 points from all directions except "South-West", "West";
• to fully recover strength, since here, unlike "Lost World", there is no such abundance of noisy neighbors;
• to save money on renting a yawl;

Arfen Cher-burun — 4

Authors: Streltsov S., Zakutin A., Sevastopol city

"Piranha" Route 6A, VI, A3, 236 m, Cape Aya. Peak with elevation 235.2 m ("Arfen") Streltsov S., Zakutin A. September 8, 2002

Tactics for wall traversal. I. Main recommendations are presented in the description of the "OBA-NA" route, 6A - 2001.

II. Watercraft

In the 2002 season, we used paired mattresses inserted into a single protective cover, which allowed:

Kilse-Burun — 10.

Left edge of the central wall, 5B (VI, 45 m) (by P. Denisenko, 1977)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the camping site. From the road, ascend a small scree to a terrace at a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it, under a small rusty cornice (R0: 200 m, 20°, I). On section R1–R2 — ascend 40 m up a sheer, crumbling wall to a small shelf under a cornice (R1–R2: 35 m, 80°, V). On section R2–R3 — ascend an overhanging, crumbling wall, bypassing the cornice on the right via a thin crack. The station is above the cornice on a small ledge (R2–R3: 20 m, 95°, VIA2). On section R3–R4 — ascend a small, overhanging crack to a 10-meter chimney. In the lower part, it is quite wide with smooth walls, making it difficult to enter. Above the chimney, move up through an overhang to a small ledge (R3–R4: 25 m, 85°, VI; 20 m, 80°, V). On section R4–R5 — ascend a crack filled with earth and grass to the base of a large, long internal corner resembling an open book. This is how it got its corresponding name (R4–R5: 60 m, 75°–80°, V). On section R5–R8 — ascend 120 m up the internal corner "Book" to reach a large terrace. This is where the main part of the route ends (R5–R8: 120 m, 75°–80°, V). Along the terrace (section R8–plateau), move slightly left and then 120 m up simple rocks to the summit plateau (R8–plateau: 120 m, 50°, I). The length of the main route is about 400 m. The ascent takes 6–8 hours.

Uarch-Kaya

R4

R3­–R1­–R0 Red Fox 45 Shamoniya 215/4 A

(3.07.2006) A new route has been ascended on Morcheka — “Сезон дож­дей” (Rainy Season) 6A F6b, A3, 340 m Between June 23rd and 26th, a new route — “Сезон дож­дей” (Rainy Season) 6A F6b, A3, 340 m — was ascended on Morcheka. The authors of the route are Odessans Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko and Taras Tsush­ko. The name of the route reflects the weather during the ascent:

• Rain every day
• Waterfalls on the wall
• Dries quickly In its middle part, the new route coincides with the routes of Grish­chen­ko and Geni­ush — about 90 m in common, the rest is new. Information provided by: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa