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Route Description: правой части СЗ стены
Description of a new 6B category route to the Odessa peak via the right part of the north-western wall in the Karavshin gorge on the Turkestan ridge.
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay; Turkestan Range; Karavshin gorge 5.4.3
- Peak Odessa; via the right part of the NW wall, first ascent
- Assessed at 6B
- Rock climbing route
- Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1000 m Route length 1235 m; wall section 1080 m Length of 6th category sections 815 m; 5th category 210 m Average steepness 67°, wall section 75°
Route Description: центру В стены
Ascent of the MSTU alpine club team "Alp-poisk" to Peak 4810 via the center of the East Face, category 6B, second traverse of the Sitnik route (1989).
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge
- Peak 4810 — via the Centre of the East Face
- Complexity category — 6B (second ascent)
- Height difference — 1200 m, length — 1290 m, incl. sections of 5–6 cat. diff. — 1000 m, 6 cat. diff. — 550 m. Average steepness — 80°
- Pitons driven: Rock: 81/12 Nuts: 180/62 Bolts: 3+18x/10x
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
First winter ascent via the center of the Northwest wall of Peak 4810 (Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range) via Kritsuk Route, cat. 6B.
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3.
- Peak 4810, 4810 m, via the center of the North-West wall, Kritsuk route
- 6B cat. diff. (first winter ascent, combination)
- Route type: combined
- Route height difference: 1180 m Route length: 1515 m Section lengths:
- V cat. diff. – 521 m
- VI cat. diff. – 884 m
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Report on the ascent of the Rostov region team to Peak Odessa via the center of the NW wall, complexity category 6B, route length 1555 m.
Report on the ascent of Peak Odessa via the center of the NW wall by the Rostov region team
1. Climbing Passport
- Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, section 5.4.3 in the 2008 classification table
- Peak Odessa, 4810 m, via the center of the northwest wall
- Category: 6B
- Route type: rock
- Wall section height difference: 1100 m Route length: 1555 m. Section lengths:
- V–VI category: 1155 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 74°
- Pitons left on the route:
Route Description: правому канту СЗ стены
Description of the first ascent of the route of category 5B on Peak 3850 m via the right edge of the NW wall in the Turkestan Range, made by G. Debedev and G. Portyanko in 1988.
PASSPORT
- Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-Su river gorge.
- Peak 3850 m via the right edge of the NW wall.
- Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference 700 m, length 1310 m; Length of sections:
- 6th category of difficulty — 102 m;
- 5th category of difficulty — 422 m;
- 4th category of difficulty — 150 m.
- Average steepness of the route — 60°.
Route Description: СЗ стене
Report on the first ascent of Peak 3800 in the Turkestan Range via the North-Northwest wall, category 6, accomplished by a team of climbers led by Alexander Pogorelov in 1988.
I. Rock climbing category. 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkistan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge. 3. Peak 3800, via North-North-West face. 4. Proposed category 6B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 660 m, route length 911 m. Length of sections: 5–6 cat. diff. – 450 m. 6 cat. diff. – 460 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 80° (3140–3590). 6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons 36
Route Description: центру С стены
First ascent of the Northwest Wall of Peak 4240 (Slesov), **Turkestan Range**, **Pamir-Alay**, 6th cat. of difficulty, 986 m, 810 m height difference.
I. Class of Rock Climbing Ascent
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su river gorge.
- Peak 4240 (Slesova) via the North-West face.
- Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
- Height difference: 810 m, route length: 986 m. Section lengths:
- R5–R6 — 874 m
- R6 — 789 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 81° (3430–4210 m)
- Number of pitons used: | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons |
Route Description: кф. В стены
Report on the first ascent of a Category 5A route on the buttress of the South-Eastern wall of Pik Usen in the Pamir-Alay, completed by a team consisting of Saveliev, Markevich, and Skotnikov.
Moscow Alpine Climbing Championship
Technical Class Report on the ascent of Pik Usen Via the Southeastern Wall counterfort (first ascent)
Ascent Passport
- Mountain system: Pamir-Alay Region: Karavshin Valley: Kara-Su Peak name: Usen, 4378 m
Route Description: СВ гребню
Report on the first ascent of Peak 4300 in the Turkestan Range via the Northeast Ridge, category 5A.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Technical category.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin river basin.
- Peak 4300 – via North-East ridge.
- 5A category of difficulty, presumably, first ascent.
- Height difference: 300 m. Length: 430 m. Average steepness: 59°. Length of sections of 5th category of difficulty: 130 m.
Route Description: внутр. Углу З стены и центру верхнего бастиона
Report on the ascent of the "Operation KIK" route on the western wall of Shaitan-Khan peak (4521 m) in Karavshin, completed by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai on July 19-21, 2023.
Report on the Ascent of Shaitankhana (Kotina Peak) via the "Operatsiya KIK" Route on the Inner Corner of the Western Wall and the Center of the Upper Bastion, Category 6A Complexity, by the Team from Krasnoyarsk Krai from July 19, 2023 to July 21, 2023
I. Climbing Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Korulin Evgeny Sergeevich (Master of Sports) |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants | Volkov Igor Vladimirovich (Candidate Master of Sports) |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the Coach | Balezine Valery Viktorovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | Krasnoyarsk Krai Alpine Federation |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |