Fig. 28 119. Dubl pik Se­ver­ny (4516 m) via East slope (route is combined, G. Belikova, 3B cat. dif., fig. 28). The path from CSP of Tsey region (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Severnaya branch of Tsey glacier opposite the col of Dubl pik is described in route 83. From the bivouac, descend to the center of the ice-snow slope descending from the col between the South and North summits of Dubl pik across the glacier plateau. A large snow cornice overhangs from the col.

From the overnight stay on the Tsейский glacier plateau below Mazа Dublyor peak, the route goes in the direction of the Northeast Ridge. Approach the ridge from its left side, through the bergschrund in the area of the avalanche gully, onto the snowy slope. Up the slope (40 m) to a rocky outcrop. Along the rocky outcrop on snow (120 m) to the right into the first couloir. Cross the second avalanche gully and on snow (60 m) to the rocks. On rocks of medium difficulty to the ridge beyond the first "gendarme". Traverse over the ridge to the shoulder — the first control cairn. From the cairn along the ridge, bypass a small "gendarme" on the left (possible to bypass on the right — 1 piton) to the wall. Up the wall (40 m, 80°). The wall rocks are heavily destroyed (rockfall hazard — piton belay). The wall initially traverses right and up (30 m), then straight up to the second large "gendarme". Further on the steep, crumbly ridge (120 m) to the wall. Up the wall (45–50 m) to the third "gendarme" (the wall of the "gendarme" has a large number of holds and "live" rocks, piton belay). From the "gendarme", descend along the snowy ridge, abutting the pre-summit wall. The steepness of the ridge is initially 25–30°, at the top up to 70° (belay via ice axe and ice screws). Along the ridge, initially keeping away from the cornice, then to the right (90 m), and then straight up under the rocks. The entire ridge is 250–300 m. Up the roc- (over 80 m) / to the pre-summit wall. Wall-

Dubl peak

In the southeastern corner of the Karaugom plateau and the southwestern corner of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier, at the beginning of the Tsey ridge, above the Tsey-Karaugom pass rise:

• South summit of Dubl peak (4516 m)
• North summit of Dubl peak (4516 m) between which a short ice-snow saddle passes. North of Dubl peak in the Tsey ridge stands a low peak Krasnoflotets. From both summits of Dubl peak to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier and the Karaugom plateau descend steep rocky edges - walls, separated by wide ice-snow slopes. Dubl peak is well освоен by mountaineers.

117. Dubl peak South (4512 m) via Southwest counterforce, 2B cat. dif. (I. Antonovich, A. Zolotarev, August 4, 1933). Fig. 28. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group 4-12 people) to the saddle of the Tsey-Karaugom pass with the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. On the pass, turn right and approach the ascent of the South summit of Dubl peak. Further, traverse left along the simple southern slope of the South summit, pass:

• the first South counterforce,
• followed by a snow couloir,

Description of the ascent route to the summit Zaramag, 4221 m, from the south, via the left couloir. Approximately 2B category of difficulty.

From the lower Zaramag camps in the Zaramag gorge, head towards the glacier descending from Mt. Zaramag. Cross the stream and river via a small bridge and ascend right-upwards along the trail in the direction of the ridge moraines. Approach the left moraine and ascend it. Traverse across the scree to the right (in the direction of travel) moraine. Follow it until the reddish rocks and, bypassing them on the right, continue upwards to the upper camps. The journey from the lower camps to the upper ones takes around 2 hours. From the upper camps, head left upwards, traversing under the slopes of the Adai-Khokh massif to avoid the conical moraine. Reach the Zaramag glacier. The journey from the upper camps takes 30–40 minutes. While crossing the glacier, move left towards the ridge with Mt. Zaramag, visible against the skyline (1.5–2 hours). Bypass the ridge on the left and head towards the rocky white-yellow "island", leaving the entire Mt. Zaramag massif on the right (in the direction of travel). (Fig. 1) Ascend the snowy-icy slope (about 45°) to the right-upwards, 4–5 ropes. CAUTION! Crevasses possible! Continue in the direction of the steep, snowy-icy, even couloir between the gendarme on the ridge leading to Mt. VTsSPS and Mt. Zaramag. The couloir's steepness is 30–35°, and in its upper part, 40–45°. The extent is 8–10 ropes. The couloir is visible from bottom to top. In the middle of its upper part, a rocky "island" is visible. There may be ice in the upper part of the couloir. Travel in crampons or with piton protection. (Fig. 2)

173. Zaromag (4203 m) from the south (the route is combined, category 2B). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-20 people) to the Skazsky pass is described in route 166. On the pass, turn left and follow the simple, then moderately difficult rocks of the saddle ridge, alternating with snowy sections, to the left side of the Skazsky pass - "False pass". It is possible to descend from the pass directly along the couloir, but it is prone to rockfall. Here, turn right. Descend along a wide scree, and lower down, snowy couloir to a small South-Skazsky glacier in the Zaromag gorge. From here:

• to the right - down
• to the "Green" areas on the grassy hill of the left-bank moraine not far from the Zaromag glacier, under the southern slopes of Aday peak.

Combined route, category 4B

Path from the CSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier.

From the hut (departure at 3–4 am):

• Cross the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the Tyrolean ice-snow right (first) ridge of the Northern wall of Zaromag peak, north of the Northern ridge and behind it, the waterfall of the glacier descending along the Northern slope of the Western ridge of Zaromag. From the plateau, after crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend 200–250 m along the right side of a wide ice-snow couloir (avalanche rockfall). Then turn right and reach the rocks on the left side of the Northern ridge of Zaromag peak. From here:
• ascend simple rocks
• ascend scree
• reach the saddle of the Northern ridge. On the saddle, turn left, along the steep, sharp, heavily broken, and snow-covered rocky Northern ridge, approach the First wall. Bypass the wall on the right with a 90–100 m traverse along steep, above average difficulty, broken rocks (“live” stones — piton protection) to reach the buttress on the right side of the Northern ridge. Further along steep, average difficulty, broken, and in places sharp rocks of the 150–170-meter buttress, with several 3–5-meter walls above average difficulty, then ascend the walls leading to the Northern ridge (piton protection).

1

Descend to the hanging glacier and approach it. Bypass the ascent on the right along the steep icy slope and on the right, and the ascent's rocks on the left. Above the drop-offs reach the hanging glacier. along the steep snow-firn slope of the glacier with crevasses ascent to the upper plateau. Along it, approach to the right tower. Bypass the tower on the right and ascend 3B turn left and along simple snow-covered rocks

47. Zaramag via the North Buttress and East Ridge (combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the CSP of the Tsey area to the initial bivouac in the South Branch hut of the Tsey Glacier. From the hut (departure at 3:00–4:00 a.m.):

• Cross the plateau of the South Branch of the Tsey Glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the second, counting from the right, narrow ice-and-snow couloir of the North wall of Zaramag peak.
• At the top, ice seracs of the North wall overhang the middle part of the couloir. From the plateau, via an avalanche gully in the center of the couloir, cross the bergschrund and traverse 100 m left-upwards (rockfall, possible avalanches, ice serac collapses) to approach a small couloir descending from the North Buttress of the East Ridge of Zaramag peak and ending in a narrow shaft with a plug. Turn left at the beginning of the couloir. Via a small inclined ledge, then via steep, above-average difficulty rocks (pitons), ascend to the ridge of the North Buttress. Here, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the North Buttress to a ledge. Along the ledge, 200–250 m upwards via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the North Buttress under the overhanging walls to a site. From the hut, 3–4 hours. From the site of the I gendarme, standing to the right of the ridge of the buttress, bypass left via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the upper buttress with an ascent of 200–250 m (pitons) to a site. From the site:
• Via simple, then steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty, an ascent of 200–250 m under the 2nd gendarme.

a small rocky ridge and then under the wall to a well-defined inner corner. Up the 6-meter inner corner to a small site. Then, along a heavily destroyed 20-meter couloir, ascent to the ridge. From the ridge, cross a wide scree couloir, followed by a 60 m traverse along a steep, heavily destroyed, moderately difficult rocky slope to reach the ice-snow couloir. Along the 60-meter ice-snow slope, and in the upper part - a heavily destroyed rocky couloir - exit from the top of the North Counterfort to the right onto the snow slope of the hanging glacier. From here, first along the snow slope, bypassing the rocky island of the North Counterfort to the right, then passing between the rocks and a large crevasse to the right, along a steep ice-snow 150-180-meter slope, move left-up to the upper part of the snow plateau of the hanging glacier. Along a gentle snow slope, approach the saddle of the Eastern ridge to the right of the "ЗИЛ" gendarme. Overcoming the bergschrund along a snow bridge, ascend a steep 40-meter ice-snow slope to the saddle of the Eastern ridge. From the bivouac at the 2nd gendarme, 5-6 hours. From here along the Eastern ridge.

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.