Route Description

Ascent to Kichkinekol Pass via the "Zamok from Burevestnik Pass" route. Descend from the pass down simple snowy slopes onto the Zamok glacier plateau. Cross the glacier leftwards, ascending along the flat section in separate steps towards the base of the Eastern peak's buttress, visible throughout the approach. From here, to the right of the icefall, follow a faintly defined snowy ridge (rocks on the right!) to reach the upper plateau below the eastern ridge of the peak. From Kichkinekol Pass - 2 hours 30 minutes. Ascend the ridge from the plateau to a snowy col, then continue up the slabs to the Eastern peak (overhanging cornices on the right!). From the Eastern peak, follow the snowy ridge rightwards to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Descend the wall with a chimney for 25 m, reach an inclined snowy ledge, and follow it rightwards onto the ridge. Descend a steep ridge to a col. From the Eastern peak - 3 hours. Along the col's ridge, approach a gendarme composed of large blocks (proceeding head-on). From the gap behind the gendarme, ascend the right side of a 15-meter wall (avoiding the corner - loose rocks!), then follow the ridge and a series of short, steep chimneys to reach the Western peak. From the col - 1 hour 30 minutes. Descend from the Western peak along the ridge to a col with a rocky "finger", then move to the southern side of the ridge. Traverse the peak from the south, reach a bifurcating ridge, and descend along its right branch onto the Zamok glacier plateau; then ascend to Kichkinekol Pass. From the Western peak - 3 hours.

• The traverse is possible in the opposite direction;
• When descending from the peaks, check the snow condition on the slabs!

Route Description:

The ascent to Chugur Pass (following the "Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass" route) is to the right of the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol Pass, it takes 2 hours. From the pass, follow the right side of the 500-meter ridge, initially a broken rocky ridge (watch out for cornices on the left!), then a snowy ridge to reach the summit. From Chugur Pass, it takes 2.5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route to Chugur Pass and takes 1.5 hours.

• When ascending from the northern side, from Chugur valley, set up the initial bivouac under the Chugur glacier on the right lateral moraine, on the shore of a dried-up lake. From here, the ascent to Chugur Pass goes along the right side of the snowy slopes of the glacier, then up a steep (up to 40°) 80-meter snowy slope.

151. Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu from the south via the couloir and the Eastern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 20, 23). On the saddle (point 150) turn left and ascend via an easy gentle, in places sharp (belay required), with short simple walls, heavily destroyed and snow-covered (cornices) 300–400-meter rocky Eastern ridge to the summit of Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu. From the Ly­chad­skie plo­schad­ki 3–4 hours.

80. Aylama via the Northeast ridge-slope (ice and snow route, G. Wullea, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 17). From the Aylama camps (camp 44) cross (closed crevasses) the Western branch of the Aylama glacier and, along the snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch, move towards the Eastern walls of the Aylama summit. Here, turn right and, following the center, bypass numerous crevasses of the heavily crevassed Northwest short steep branch, which flows into the Western branch of the Aylama glacier, and approach the left side of the upper part of the Northeast ridge of the summit (closed crevasses). Then:

• 500–600 m upwards, keeping to the right side of the steep heavily crevassed ice and snow Eastern slope;
• ascend to the Northeast ridge at the point where it turns into the ice and snow slope of the summit dome. From here, ascend 300–350 m up and to the right along the steep ice and snow slope, bypassing ice cliffs and drops (avalanches, ice falls). Below are the ice falls of the North wall! Then turn left and, along the gradually flattening 400–500-meter snow slope (avalanches), reach the summit of Aylama. From the initial bivouac, 6–10 hours. M. Chertkov's group ascended to the Northeast ridge from the Dykhsu glacier. Fig. 17.

Fig. 15.

74. Aylama via the II bastion of the South Face (a combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat., fig. 5, 15, 16). From the platform at the top of the Left Rib (point 72):

• 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the bergschrund;
• after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 40 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the rocks on the right side of the III bastion;
• from here, 40 m across simple rocks. Up to the wall. 30 m up difficult rocks of the wall with a crack onto a ledge. Then directly up 8–10 m across rocks of medium difficulty, then 12 m up the wall to a small platform, from where there is a 40 m ascent up rocks of medium difficulty to a platform under a large boulder. From the platform on the Left Rib, it takes 3–4 hours.

126. Jangitau Main via South Face (combined route, G. Kartvelishvili, 5B cat. diff., fig. 20, 22). From the bivouac on the top of the Central Rocky Island of the Southwest Wall "Kunal" of Jangitau massif (route 125), turn left and along the left side of the broken oblique glacier of the South Face of Jangitau, approach the South Ridge of Jangitau Main. Ascent:

• Steep snow-covered rocks or a narrow ice-snow gully
• Ascend 70–80 m
• Reach the South Ridge Here, turn right and along steep snow-covered slopes of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the bastion wall. Bypass the bastion from the left and exit to the South Ridge behind it. Further, ascend steep rocks above medium difficulty on the South Ridge with challenging walls. After passing the scree, ascend to the summit of Jangitau Main via an ice-snow slope. 8 hours from the bivouac Fig. 22. From Shkhara Western to Lyalver and Tetnuldi

28. Mardjanishvili via the Eastern Ridge (ice and snow route, category II difficulty, figs. 5, 6). From the areas below Sharivtsék Pass (r. 18) turn left and ascend along the stream, then via a grassy moraine left of the waterfalls, and a snowy slope with rocky ridges. Above the waterfalls, turn right and, via a 3–5-meter rocky ascent, reach an ice and snow slope. Ascend the gentle slope towards the left side of the Western Saddle of Sharivtsék Pass. Without reaching the pass, turn left and, along a gentle snowy slope, bypass the first rocky sentinel of Mardjanishvili’s Eastern Ridge on the left (beware of rockfall from the sentinel). From the upper areas, 1–1.5 hours. For the ascent path to the first sentinel of the Eastern Ridge from the Lower Camps, see r. 29. From the I sentinel, ascend 200 m up a snowy slope on the left side of the Eastern Ridge

26. Machhapuchhare via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A difficulty, fig. 5, 7). From the upper meadows below Sharyvcek Pass (point 18), traverse right across the moraine, snow slopes, scree, and over the moraine to the Machhapuchhare glacier below the Northwest slopes of Machhapuchhare peak. From the glacier, ascend a steep snow/ice slope to the left side of the base of the West buttress of Machhapuchhare’s Southwest ridge (belay). Then 120–140 m up a steep snow/ice slope on the left side of the West buttress (pitons) to a saddle on the Southwest ridge. On the saddle, turn left and ascend easy, broken rock on the Southwest ridge, overcoming gendarmes and short walls with steep, straightforward simple rock climbing (“live” rocks, belay), and ascend scree and easy, broken rock to the summit of Machhapuchhare. 4–7 hours from the Upper meadows.

63. Kichkidar via Western slope of the Southern ridge (route is combined, 2A cat., fig. 5, 7). The path from the “Jailyk” alp camp (group of 4–12 people) to the upper plateau of the Zapadny Yunum glacier with the initial bivouac at the “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochovki” is described in route 73. Across the glacier plateau (closed crevasses) approach the snowy-ice Western slope on the left side of the saddle of the massif, which connects the Kichkidar peak on the left and the Yunumkara peak on the right. From the glacier, having crossed the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend 180–200 m up the steep snowy-ice Western slope to the snowy-ice saddle (possible cornices) to the left of the two rocky towers of the Zaitsev. On the saddle, turn left and along the wide snowy-ice ridge (cornices) of the saddle, approach the ascent to the Kichkidar tower summit. Along the steep easy rocks of the ascent, bypassing the gendarme on the left, with a 10-meter wall (belay) on the Southern ridge, ascend to the summit of Kichkidar. From the “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochovki” 3–3.5 hours.