Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT Sovetskiy Voyn VIA THE ROUTE OF 3B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "FREELINE" PYATIGORSK ON AUGUST 29, 2022

I. Climbing Passport

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF TEGENEKLIBASHI PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A (ORIENTATIONAL) DIFFICULTY LEVEL AM AUSC Tyrnyauz UTS Tegenekli May 1, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Report

on the first ascent to the summit 3310 m (300 years of the RAS) via the Western slope, category 2A, by the group from the "Shkhelda" alpine camp on July 5, 2023

I. Climbing Report Form

ASCENT DOCUMENT

19

1. Climbing category — rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge — Main Caucasian Ridge from Kitlod pass to Gezevtsеg pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — traverse of Belaya Neznakomka (4200) — Chyornaya Neznakomka (4100) with ascent to the South Gendarme of Belaya Neznakomka via the southeast wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference 600–700 m; b) average steepness — 60°
6. Pitons hammered: — for belay, for intermediate rock anchors: 35 — ice screws: 6

83. Va­khus­hti via South­east ridge (com­bi­ned route, cate­gory 2A, fig. 5; 18). At the first stream (m. 89) turn right and ascend via the trail on its right bank to a snowfield. From the snowfield, ascend via scree and easy bro­ken rocks on the south­east slopes of the South­east ridge to the ridge of Vakhushti peak, to the left and above its grassy slopes. From here, follow the gen­tle, wide, scree South­east ridge to a nar­row ridge, which is avoided via a 30-meter ledge on the right (pro­tec­tion). Be­hind it, as­cend via steep, easy, bro­ken rocks to the south­east ridge (pro­tec­tion). Fur­ther, 30 m via steep, easy, bro­ken rocks on the left side of the south­east

Ascent Log

(Third Ascent)

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range from Ktlod Pass to Gezhevtsek Pass.
3. Ascent route — Tsurungal via the southeast wall (4222 m) – Central Nезнакомка (4100 m) – Bolshaya Nезнакомка (4200 m).
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1980 m, length of 5th-6th difficulty sections — 720 m, average steepness (excluding the ridge part) — 65–70°.

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent class — rock.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Range south from Kittlod pass to Gezevtsék pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Chyornaya Neznakomka, 4100 m, via the right South counterfort of the Eastern ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1400 m, length of sections with 5th–6th difficulty category — 310 m, average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons hammered in:

Fig. 3. 2. Chutkharo Western peak via Western ridge (rocky route, A. Naumova, category III difficulty, fig. 2, 3). At the grassy col (point 1), turn right and ascend a wide grassy slope, talus, and easy rocks to the Western ridge of Chutkharo Western peak, to the right of its first pinnacle. Bypass the pinnacle on the right via easy rocks. Then, proceed along easy rocks and large talus of the Western ridge to approach the second pinnacle, which is bypassed on the left via ledges. Traverse the simple, rocky, and rugged Western ridge, overcoming or bypassing numerous pinnacles, to reach a narrow saddle.

89 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

• right — upwards 35–40 m,
• then left — upwards,
• exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further: