Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: rock 2. Ascent area: tourist center "Uzungol", Western Caucasus 3. Ascent route: peak CHAT-BASHI 3760 m, northern edge 4. Proposed category difficulty: 4B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 860 m, average steepness 50–55° 6. Pitons driven: — for belay: 32 rock pitons — for creating artificial climbing holds (ITCH): none — ice screws: none

Chyornye Bashni Peak — 3550 m

Traverse in both directions — category 3A From the Uzunkol alpine camp, follow the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. To the left of the stream, ascend to a large lateral step — "ice overnight stays". From here, ascend via a grassy couloir and then along a steep grey moraine to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. Cross the plateau to approach the slopes of the Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund (belay!), cross via a bridge closer to the slopes of Filtr Peak, and then continue up the snowy slope (150 m up to 45°, belay!) to a short scree slope and ascend to the pass. From the pass, descend south and cross the Zamok glacier plateau to approach the 1st terrace of the Chungur glacier from the left. With a slight gain in height, traverse to the middle part of the Chyornye Bashni glacier. Cross the glacier towards the buttress of the eastern peak. Ascend to the right of the icefall via a somewhat indistinct ridge (avoid the lower part of the buttress — rockfall!) and reach the plateau. From the Kichkinekol pass to the plateau — 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the eastern peak (rope teams!) begins from the plateau via the southeast ridge. Ascend via snow to a snowy saddle in the ridge and then upwards via slabs — belay! Rockfall! Reach the peak via a snowy slope to the right CORNICES!! From the plateau to the peak — 1–1.5 hours. Descend from the eastern peak to the right via a snowy ridge to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Here, set up a 25 m sport descent via the wall with a chimney. Belay! After descending to an inclined snowy ledge and along it to the right towards the ridge. Descend via a steep ridge — belay! — to the col between the eastern and western peaks. From the eastern peak to the col — 3–3.5 hours.

Fig. 35 166. Adai (4404 m) via the East Ridge (a combined route by O. Shuster, Category III) From the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people), follow the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River upstream. After passing the "Green" hill, exit the left-bank moraine of the Skazsky Glacier onto the glacier. Cross to the right:

• the glacier,
• a destroyed, grass-covered rocky slope,
• and approach a rocky couloir. Here, turn left and move straight up the couloir (possible rockfall). Exit the couloir onto the left destroyed rocky slope. Ascend it, then a snowfield, and further up destroyed rocks to reach the platforms (Skazskie overnight stays) at the level of the upper plateau of the Skazsky Glacier. These platforms serve as the initial bivouac. From the CSP of the Tsey region, 4-5 hours. From the platforms, descend to the upper plateau of the Skazsky Glacier and, staying on its right side (closed crevasses), approach the right side of the ice-snow slope of the wide saddle of the Skazsky Pass. From the plateau:
• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge,

Fig. 32 142. Peak Artsishevskogo via the East Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 32). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac at Volginsky night camps is described in route 99. From Volginsky night camps, head to the Uilpatinsky Glacier, turn right, and approach the center of the wide, gently sloping (in its lower part) first snow-ice couloir on the right via the glacier's snow plateau. The couloir descends from the Tsey Ridge saddle, situated between Peak Oniiani on the right and the Uilarh massif on the left. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge from the glacier. Bypassing the rocky ridge rising through the center of the couloir on the left, ascend the right side of the gradually steepening ice-snow couloir (avalanches and rockfall possible - piton belay) to the snowy saddle (large cornice) of the ridge. From Volginsky night camps - 1 hour. At the saddle, turn left and ascend a 45-50-meter steep snowy slope to the East Ridge of Peak Artsishevskogo. Follow the occasionally sharp snowy (cornices) 200-meter East Ridge to a destroyed rocky ledge. Traverse a 40-50-meter ledge on the left side of the rocky ridge to reach a snowy slope, then approach the rocky tower of Peak Artsishevskogo. Ascend 60 meters directly up the simple to moderately difficult rocks of the tower's wall ("loose" rocks, piton belay) to the summit. From under the tower's wall, it is possible to:

• descend 25-30 meters down the snowy slope to the left,

Bivuachnaya

In the center of the Karau­gom plateau, a low, technically simple snow-capped peak Bivuachnaya (4150 m) rises. It is connected to the Krasnoflotets peak, located in the Tsey ridge, by a low ice-snow saddle, which drops to the Central branch of the plateau with an ice fall. The convenient rock platforms at the foot of the Western ridge of Bivuachnaya are used by climbers as a starting bivouac for ascents to the surrounding plateau peaks. It is mandatory to take a tent on the routes, as it is often impossible to find a bivouac in the fog on the plateau.

Burdzhula

The nodal summit of the Main ridge, Burdzhula (4364 m) stands out sharply against the background of the surrounding low peaks. It is located in the south-western corner of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, between the Anufrikov Peak to the east and Saualhayne to the north-west. At the end of the North ridge - a spur of Burdzhula stands a rocky tower of the Nogkau summit. 139. Burdzhula via the North ridge, Category III complexity (V. Lubenets, V. Radel, August 4, 1946) The path from the CSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga (a group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the eastern slopes of Burdzhula, is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac, approach the first lower col on the left of the North ridge of Burdzhula

Fig. 22 93. Vologata (4396 m) from the south via the couloir (combined route, category 2A difficulty, fig. 22). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Eastern branch of the plateau (closed crevices) and approach the wide snowy couloir descending from the Southwest snowy ridge from under the Vologata peak, to the right side of the wide snowy slope of the saddle connecting Vologata and Karaugom.

46. ZAROMAT via the Left Buttress of the North Edge (combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the end of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier. From the hut:

• departure at 3–4 am;
• cross the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier across the plateau (closed crevasses);
• approach the steep, second right, ice-snow couloir of the North wall of the Zaromat peak. At the top left above the middle part of the couloir hang ice overhangs. From the plateau, cross over to the bergschrund in the center of the couloir via an avalanche gully. On the right side of the steep ice-snow couloir (rockfall, avalanches, icefall) 200–250 m straight up. Before reaching the left ice overhangs looming over the couloir, exit it to the right onto the rocks of the Left Buttress of the North Edge. Further on simple, heavily destroyed rocks or a snow isthmus — ascent to the ridge of the buttress. From the buttress descend to the right onto a shelf. Walk along the wide snowy shelf upwards to its end. From here, move left–upwards on simple rocks to the ridge of the Left Buttress and approach the ice-snow slope along it. On a steep ice-snow slope 80 m to the right–upwards (rockfall) to the right side of the rock wall of the upper part of the Left Buttress. Bypass the wall on the right. On simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the Left Buttress along the couloir (rockfall and avalanches in the couloir, piton belay) ascend to a site. Bivouac on the site. From the initial bivouac 9–12 hours.

47. Zaramag via the North Buttress and East Ridge (combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the CSP of the Tsey area to the initial bivouac in the South Branch hut of the Tsey Glacier. From the hut (departure at 3:00–4:00 a.m.):

• Cross the plateau of the South Branch of the Tsey Glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the second, counting from the right, narrow ice-and-snow couloir of the North wall of Zaramag peak.
• At the top, ice seracs of the North wall overhang the middle part of the couloir. From the plateau, via an avalanche gully in the center of the couloir, cross the bergschrund and traverse 100 m left-upwards (rockfall, possible avalanches, ice serac collapses) to approach a small couloir descending from the North Buttress of the East Ridge of Zaramag peak and ending in a narrow shaft with a plug. Turn left at the beginning of the couloir. Via a small inclined ledge, then via steep, above-average difficulty rocks (pitons), ascend to the ridge of the North Buttress. Here, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the North Buttress to a ledge. Along the ledge, 200–250 m upwards via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the North Buttress under the overhanging walls to a site. From the hut, 3–4 hours. From the site of the I gendarme, standing to the right of the ridge of the buttress, bypass left via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the upper buttress with an ascent of 200–250 m (pitons) to a site. From the site:
• Via simple, then steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty, an ascent of 200–250 m under the 2nd gendarme.

76. Aylama via the West Ridge (combined route, I. Marra, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 15, 17). From the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (m. 72), approach the wide snowy southern slope of the saddle between Aylama Malaya peak and the Big Sharp Gendarme of Aylama's West Ridge. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund on the left side of the steep wide snowy slope, 400–500 m up, to the right of the rocks of the East Ridge of Aylama Malaya peak. Having overcome the second bergschrund or bypassed it on the left via the rocks, 600–700 m up and to the right, towards the couloir on the left side of the Big Gendarme. Follow the winding couloir, known as the "Zmeika" (Snake) couloir, 150–200 m up, to