132. Ullukara via North Counterforce and East Ridge (Category IV A route). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp to the foot of the North Counterforce of Ullukara summit with the initial bivouac at the terminal moraine of Bashkara glacier is described in route 136. From the glacier, along a steep snowy slope, bypassing the lower rocky outcrop of the North Counterforce from the left side, reach under the rocky wall. Bypass the wall from the right with an exit to a couloir and ascend 80–100 m (belay!) via non-steep, partially snow-covered easy to moderately difficult rocks of the couloir to a ridge platform. 3–4 hours from the glacier. Then, along heavily destroyed ridge rocks or its right side, ascend to a platform below an ice-snow slope. 3–4 hours from the first counterforce

¹

2. Steep snowy slope. Descent with alternating belay
3. Snow ridge. Cornices possible from the north.
4. Easy destroyed rocks. CHATYN-TAU — Category 3A. Height 4368 m. The summit of Chatyn-Tau is located in the Uzhba group area and is directly adjacent to the Uzhba Plateau. To the north of the summit is the peak Shchurovskogo, to the east is the Dolla-Kora ridge, and to the southwest are the summits:

• Malaya Uzhba
• Severная Uzhba (North Uzhba)

9.25

Climbing Marieta's Opirogama and etc. routes via tuporame cuscefitkh.

Ascent of Chatyn-Tau via the Northern wall (Peruvian style).

Category of difficulty 5B

From "Shkelda" alpine camp the group reaches Shkelda overnight stay via the usual route. Through Loznыy Chatyn pass the group descends to the Chalaat glacier under the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau. Here they spend the night. Via large avalanche cones the group ascends through a subglacial crevice to the first rocky outcrop. The rocks are steep, smooth, and have the appearance of a narrow and high isosceles triangle. The apex of this triangle abuts the overhang of a black gendarme. To the right of the triangle is a large

83. Western Shkhelda from the south (route 2B cat. difficulty). The path from the "Shkhelda" alpine camp to the col between Western Shkhelda and Profsoyuzov peak with the initial bivouac on the South Shkhelda glacier is described in routes 72 and 80. Group size is 4-20 people. On the col:

• Turn right and ascend simple rocks of the Western ridge of Western Shkhelda peak to the "Finger" gendarme.
• Bypass the gendarme along the ledges on the right side (protection!) with an exit to the saddle below the rocky ascent to the summit.
• From the saddle, descend 60-80 m to the right down a scree gully.
• From it, traverse simple rocks and scree to the left to the base of a narrow icy gully. descending from the South ridge, and along the terrace, ascend to the South ridge. Ascend simple rocks and scree of the South ridge, then ascend the scree slope to the summit of Western Shkhelda. From the col - 3-4 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 4 days. Required equipment:

Fig. 12 41. Sugantau via the South Slope (snow and ice route, category 2B difficulty level, Fig. 12). From the tourist base hut located on a wide grassy clearing in the Karasu valley, on the right bank of the Dykhsu River, at the entrance to the canyon of the same gorge (group size: 4-20 people), descend to the Karasu River along a trail and cross it via a bridge. Then, ascend along the Karasu River's bank in the direction of the Shtulu Pass. The trail crosses the river several times via small bridges. Near the lake on the right bank of the Karasu River:

• Turn left, away from the trail leading to the Shtulu Pass;
• Ascend up the steep slope on the left bank of the Aksu River until reaching the confluence with the stream flowing from the Yuzhny Sugan Glacier. After this:
• Cross the Aksu River;
• Ascend along the Yuzhny Sugan stream;

Fig. 29 127. Bubis (4428 m) via West Ridge (mixed route by A. Gvalia, category III difficulty, Fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West Ridge of the Bivouac Peak or on the plateau below the West Ridge of Bubis is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses), approach the left side of the base of the West Ridge of Bubis via the snowy plateau. From the plateau:

• Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge (protection);
• Ascend the snowy slope to the West Ridge of Bubis. Turn left here. Initially, follow the snowy ridge upwards, then proceed along a simple, not steep, snow-covered rocky 300-350-meter West Ridge. Further, 100-120 m along the increasingly steeper ice-and-snow West Ridge, transitioning into a steep icy slope (piton protection), and exit onto the rocks. From here, follow simple, ruined, and steep slabs, veering right, to the exit onto a rocky ledge on the right side of the rocky ascent (protection). Traverse along the ledge on the right side of the West Ridge ascent to a vertical internal corner at its end.

Burevestnik-Tseyskiy

The rocky tower of the summit is located between Malaya Songuti to the west and Spartak-Tseyskiy to the east. The summit is technically simple, with only one route laid by V. Tsiruk and V. Markarov in 1953. 159. Burevestnik-Tseyskiy via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2B, Fig. 33). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac at the sites near Turye Lake under the Maly Songuti glacier is described in route 156. From the bivouac, ascend via the scree, then via the Maly Songuti glacier in the direction of the col between the summits of Malaya Songuti to the right and Burevestnik-Tseyskiy to the

122. Dubl pik South — North (combined route by I. Antonovich, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the tourist service center (TSC) of the Tsey region (group of 4–8 people) to the South Dubl pik is described in route 117. From the South Dubl pik, descend along the ice-and-snow ridge, then along the slope to a wide saddle (with a corniche on the right). Along the saddle, approach the base of the North peak's ascent. Then:

• Ascend a steep 70–80-meter ice-and-snow slope in a couloir;
• Overcome 25–30-meter moderately difficult rocks (piton protection) to reach the West ridge of the North peak;
• On the ridge, turn right and traverse simple and moderately difficult snow-covered rocks to reach the North Dubl pik. Approximately 1 hour from the South Dubl pik. Descend via the ascent route or through the Karaugom plateau (see routes 121, 63). The route duration is 3 days.

123. Dubl pik North — South (combined route by M. Zvezdkin, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the TSC of the Tsey region or the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the platforms, traverse the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom plateau (closed crevices) to approach the steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the saddle of the Tsey ridge (between the North Dubl pik on the right and the Krasnoflotets peak on the left).

1

Descend to the hanging glacier and approach it. Bypass the ascent on the right along the steep icy slope and on the right, and the ascent's rocks on the left. Above the drop-offs reach the hanging glacier. along the steep snow-firn slope of the glacier with crevasses ascent to the upper plateau. Along it, approach to the right tower. Bypass the tower on the right and ascend 3B turn left and along simple snow-covered rocks

163. Lekzyr Malaya via North-West ridge (combined route, Cat. III, Fig. 24, 26). From the initial bivouac on the “Morena Lekzyr” sites (point 159) cross the Eastern branch of Lekzyr Glacier (closed crevasses) and ascend on its right side. Pass the lower part of the North-West ridge with gendarmes, turn right, cross the bergschrund, and ascend a steep snow-ice slope (streams) to the North-West ridge of Lekzyr Malaya summit. On the ridge, turn left and follow the icy-snowy North-West ridge (cornices) to approach the snow-covered rocky ascent. Ascend steep snow-covered rocks of the ascent (“live” stones, pitons) — 60–70 m up. Then 100–120 m along the edge of ice and rocks (cornices, belay), then: