1. Rock climbing category
2. Western Caucasus, Nakhar gorge
3. Bolshoi Nakhar via the northeast wall
4. Proposed category: 6th category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference — 930 m, length — 1320 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 730 m Average steepness of main sections 81° (2950–3500), including 6th category of complexity:

• 86°, 60 m (3010–3050);
• 88°, 185 m (3070–3200);
• 90°, 10 m (3230–3240);

2015

1.1. GENERAL INFORMATION 1.1.1. Route name: North face of p. Bodhona. 1.1.2. Region: Lateral Zaalaysky ridge, Pamir. 1.1.3. Route type: rock. 1.1.4. Difficulty category: 6B. 1.1.5. Route elevation gain: 1300 m. 1.1.6. Route length: 1950 m. 1.1.7. Average steepness of the route: 55°. 1.1.8. Length of sections with 6th cat. diff.: 780 m. 1.1.9. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 450 m.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Chan Chakhi-Khokh (4453 m) via the route: North wall - right "bastion", from August 18 to 26, 1965. By the team of Kharkov regional council of the sports society "Avangard" led by NEBORAK V.S. Mt. CHAN CHAKHI-KHOKH 4453 m.

Team Composition

Leader: NEBORAK VALENTIN STEPANOVICH, born in 1930, Ukrainian, member of the CPSU, 1st sports category in mountaineering, architect.

Participants:

GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA YURIY IVANOVICH, born in 1935, Ukrainian, non-partisan, 1st sports category in mountaineering, electrical engineer.

Ukrainian Council

With “Burevestnik” Sports Society

Dedicated to our teacher and friend Vitaly Vasilyevich OVCHAROV in honor of the 25th anniversary of his mountaineering career.

Chanchakhi–Khokh

via the central bastion of the northern wall (first ascent) 4461 m Kiev, 1968

Sporting Characteristics of Chanchakhi–Khokh Peak

Chanchakhi–Khokh peak is one of the most inaccessible peaks in the Tsey region. The easiest route to it is a category 4B route via the snowy couloir from the south. In addition, there are three category 5B routes via the Northern wall. The Northern wall majestically towers over the plateau of the Northern circus of the Tsey glacier.

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Chanchaqi of 6B category complexity by the group from the Taganrog and Rostov DSO "TRUD" led by Ruzhevsky V.V. Taganrog, 1970

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the route

The summit of Chanchaqi is located in the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus between the Tsey-Tbilisi pass and the summit of Mamison-Khokh. The height of the summit is 4420 meters above sea level. Among the classified routes to the summit of Chanchaqi, the simplest path is from the Tsey-Tbilisi pass, category 4B complexity. The most interesting from an alpinist's point of view is the north face. Here, there are routes of 5B and 6B category complexity. The 6B category complexity route was first ascended in 1968 by a group led by Popov, which received silver medals at the 1968 USSR championship for this ascent. In the 1970 season, this route was ascended by a group from the "Alibek" alpine camp, also participating in the USSR championship, and by a group from the Rostov Regional Council of DSO "TRUD".

Ascent conditions

In the second half of August, the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus is characterized by unstable weather. Typically, the first half of the day is sunny, which then changes abruptly, and by the second half of the day, precipitation often occurs. A peculiarity of Chanchaqi's microclimate is the constant wind, likely caused by the movement of warm air masses from the low-lying areas of Georgia to the higher and colder areas of North Ossetia. All the above is reflected in the relief of this mountain. Sharp temperature changes, wind erosion, and frequent precipitation result in formed ice, steep ice slopes, and islands on the wall, destroyed rocks, and its main hazard - a multitude of "live" stones.

Report on the Ascent by the "Alibek" Team of CS SDSO "Burevestnik" to Chan chakhi–Khokh via the North Face along the Central Bastion (Popov's Route), Category 6B, at the USSR Alpine Championship

I. Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of Chan chakhi–Khokh

The peak Chan chakhi–Khokh, chosen by the "Alibek" team for participation in the USSR Alpine Championship, is located in the well-known alpinist area of the Eastern Caucasus — Tsey. The peak is situated near the extremity of the Main Caucasian Ridge. Its height is 4642 meters above sea level. From a sporting perspective, its north face is of interest, with several routes plotted, not below category 5B. In 1968, a group of climbers from Kiev led by Popov ascended via the Central Bastion on the north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh, a route classified as Category 6B. Besides the first ascensionists, this route was followed only by a group led by Kinskiy from al "Elbrus" in 1969.

2. Characteristics of the Climbing Conditions

The height difference of the route is approximately 1000 m, with an average steepness of 70–80°. The entire route is divided into four parts — four bastions — by short ice sections. Camping in tents is only possible on steep snowy ridges separating the bastions. The solidity of the rocks decreases from the base to the summit; the upper part of the wall is heavily destroyed, and therefore the wall is characterized by frequent rockfalls, the intensity of which decreases only by the end of July — beginning of August. The Central Bastion, compared to other sections of the wall, is less "exposed" to rockfalls. The north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh is lit by the sun only in the morning, and the edge of the 4th bastion, projecting northwest, is almost never lit.

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: