Ascent Passport

to p. Uglovoy (3900) First Ascent

1. Type of ascent — rock climb. 2. Region of ascent — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area
2. Peak "Uglovoy" (conditional name) 3900 m according to NW classification, rock climb route
3. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length — 530 m, including sections of III–IV category of difficulty — 220 m, average steepness — 58°
4. Pitons hammered — 14/2 protection gear — 11/4

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined.
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kungey Alatau.
3. Peak — KRISTALL, height 3830 m, route along the Southeast ridge from the saddle, combined rock.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 460 m;
   • average steepness — 30°;
   • sections of 5th difficulty category — none.
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Record

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kungey Alatau range
3. Peak — MALENKIY PRINZ, height — 3860 m, route — from the West along the Northern ridge, combined.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 550 m
   • average steepness — 30°
   • sections of 5th difficulty category — none
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent region — Tian-Shan Ridge — Kungey-Alatau
3. Peak — Mahabbat Height — 3700 m, ascent route — via the eastern counterfort
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 610 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 170 m, average steepness — 65°

Ascent Passport

1 Ascent class — combined 2 Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge 3 Peak — Sadko, height — 3970 m, route via North ridge, rocky 4 Presumed category of difficulty — 2B 5 Route characteristics: — height difference — 500 m — average steepness — 30° — sections of 5th category of difficulty — none 6 Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - combined 2. Ascent region - Tian-Shan, Kungey Alatau 3. Peak - Snegurochka, height - 3870 m, route via East ridge from Snegurochka glacier, ice-snow 4. Estimated difficulty category - 2A 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 470 m
• average steepness - 35 degrees
• sections of 5th cat. diff. - none

6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1 Ascent class — combined 2 Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge 3 Peak — Suvenir, height 3880 m, route — via the Northern edge from the Suvenir glacier, combined. 4 Estimated complexity category — 2A 5 Route characteristics:

• height difference — 400 m
• average steepness — 45°
• sections of 5th complexity category — none 6 Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge 3. Peak — Peak 4062 m, ascent route — via the North ridge 4. Estimated category of difficulty 2A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 593 m. Length of sections of II–III category of difficulty — 870 m. Average steepness 46° 6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 4, ice — 2, bolted — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 8

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan, ridge, Karakol gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Number of pitons for belay: rock pitons — 6 pieces, ice screws were not used for creating intermediate belays.
7. Number of climbing hours:

• from the upper base camp under the glacier to the upper campsite — 2 hours.
• from the upper campsite to the couloir — 30 minutes.
• ascent through the couloir — 40 minutes.

Fig. 17