Ascent Record

Ascent class — combined
Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kungey Alatau range
Peak — MALENKIY PRINZ, height — 3860 m, route — from the West along the Northern ridge, combined.
Estimated difficulty category — 2A
Route characteristics:
- height difference — 550 m
- average steepness — 30°
- sections of 5th difficulty category — none
Pitons hammered:
- for belay — 3, for creating belay anchors — none
- rock — 2, ice — 1
Overnights on the route — none
Number of climbing hours — 7 hours
Group composition: Ganyalin V.A. — Candidate for Master of Sports, ascent leader Koreva A.M. — 2nd sports category, participant Khomogorov A.I. — 3rd sports category, participant Prokhorov A. — 3rd sports category, participant
Team coach — Ganyalin V.A.
Date of departure on the route and ascent — July 15, 1981

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Date	Designations	Average steepness, degrees	Length in meters	Route character	Difficulty	Condition	Weather	Rock pitons	Ice pitons	Hang. pitons
15.07.	O–I	30	100 m	talus	I	not rockfall-prone	cloudy	simultaneous
1981	1–2	45	60 m	talus, snow	II	rockfall-prone	«–»	ledges
	2–3	45	25 m	ice slope	II	solid ice	«–»		I
	3–4	15	400 m	closed glacier	I	crevasses absent, covered with wet snow	«–»	simultaneous
	4–5	45	180 m	snow slope	I	wet snow	«–»	through ice axe
	5–6	20	50 m	snow ridge with cornices	II	dense snow	«–»	«–»
	6–7	45	30 m	couloir	II	snow, ice	«–»		I
	7–8	20	40 m	rocky ridge	I	destroyed rocks	«–»	ledges
	8–9	30	80 m	snow ridge	II	dense snow	«–»	through ice axe
	9–10	40	25 m	snow slope	I	«–»	«–»
	10–II	40	20 m	rocky wall	II	destroyed rocks	«–»	I	«–»	«–»

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