34. Kirgizata Vostochnaya via the North Ridge. The route is combined, cat. 2A (fig. 5, 6, 40, 41, 43). Length — 1000 m, ascent — 450 m, time — 4–5 hours. The path from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac by the lake under the northwestern slopes of Jyrty peak — see route 23. From the initial bivouac, move up-right across the moraine, then cross the Vostochny Kirgizata Glacier and approach the right side of the Eastern buttress of the North Ridge of Kirgizata Vostochnaya peak. From the glacier, ascend the ice-snow slope to the Eastern buttress. Along the snowy, scree-covered, wide, and gently sloping Eastern buttress, rise to the lower shoulder of the North Ridge. On the shoulder, turn left and follow the easy, broken rocks and scree, overcoming numerous simple short walls and low seracs (with protection) along the gently sloping 300–400-meter North Ridge to the foot. Along simple sections with short walls of medium difficulty, and steep 40–50° rocks of the ascent, perform a 200–250-meter climb (pitons protection) to the upper shoulder. From the shoulder, traverse 150–200 meters along the simple rocks of the North Ridge, bypassing a serac on the left (protection), approach the base of the North serac's tower, and ascend a simple 10–12-meter wall (protection) to the serac. From the serac, descend 10 meters using a sport descent down a simple wall, and along the scree-covered, snowy 200–250-meter North Ridge, approach the rocky tower of the summit. Ascend an 8–12-meter simple wall (“live” rocks, protection) to reach the summit of Kirgizata Vostochnaya. From the initial bivouac — 5–6 hours.

East Ridge

Climbing Route Descriptions

I. Peak "Sтроитель Токтогульской ГЭС" (Builder of Toktogul HPP) Kurgan

The first ascent was made by a group consisting of Koporushkin V.G. (leader), Inozemtsev Yu.P., Kuzmichenok V.A., Tonka A.R. (all - 2nd sports category) in the period November 2-4, 1972. The route diagram is shown in Fig. 2. The mountain spur, in which the peak is located, stretches along the right bank of the Kurgan River in a north-northwest - south-southeast direction. The overall view of the route is shown in Fig. 3 (from the side of Tyuya Tash peak) and Fig. 4 (from the side of Sur-Too peak). Approach. From the bivouac, after crossing to the left bank of a nameless stream, we descend to the south. After 10-15 minutes of walking, we cross a stream flowing from under Dzhelan-Konybashi peak. Further, the trail goes along the right bank of the right-bank tributary of the Kurgan River (the stream originates under the Kumbel pass). After 1.5 hours of walking from the base camp, the trail crosses to the left bank of the tributary and goes along the snow-covered moraine in the direction of the southeastern ridge of Sur-Too peak (2 hours). Route. Further movement along the ridge in the direction of the saddle between Sur-Too peak and Peak "Builder of Toktogul HPP" - initially under the cliffs, and then along the cliffs of the western slopes of the ridge. There is a convenient place for an overnight stay on the saddle. The travel time from the base camp to the saddle is 6 hours. From the saddle, move along the crest to the I gendarme, which is bypassed on the left in the direction of travel. Further, we bypass the lower part of the II gendarme on the left. Then, along a snowy couloir, and in the upper part - along the cliffs with piton protection (1 piton) - we reach the crest under the III gendarme.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: Technical
2. Climbing region, range: Pamir-Alay, Kikik-Alay range
3. Peak: Tsvilling S.M. peak Height: 4326 m Ascent route: from Tsvilling pass
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4–5
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: ~850 m Length of sections: 5–6 with 3rd category difficulty, 30 m

51. Osh — Glavnaya via the North Slope of the East Buttress of the South Ridge The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5, 49, 57, 58). Length — 1500 m, height difference — 600 m, time — 4.5–5 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) to the initial bivouac on the light moraine in the upper cirque of the Kurgan valley — see route 10. From the initial bivouac:

• Ascend the broad slope of the northern spur, composed of small and medium talus, to the right of the base of the East Buttress, bypassing the lower rocky outcrop on the left and the upper one on the right.
• Above it, make a 60-meter traverse left along simple, broken rocks on the left side to bypass the 1st sentinel of the saddle.
• Behind the sentinel, reach the crest of the saddle below the 2nd large sentinel.
• Ascend steep, broken rocks of medium difficulty along the 80-meter crest (pitons for protection) to the 2nd sentinel.
• Cairn.

49. Osh Western from the north via couloir and Eastern ridge-slope The route is combined, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 49, 53–56). Length — 900 m, duration — 2.5–3 hours. The approach path is from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) to the initial bivouac in the Djoldjilga gorge, short of the western walls of the Osh massif, see route 14. From the alpine camp — 3–3.5 hours. From the initial bivouac, ascend the scree slope overgrown with grass, possibly snow-covered, to the right side of the wide ridge of the Scedlovina pass, connecting the Osh massif with the Mazar peak. Here, turn right and along the wide ridge, approach the foot of the snow-ice couloir-slope descending from the saddle of the massif between the North and West peaks, along the western wall of Osh North peak. On the ridge, turn right and ascend the 35–40° snow-ice slope of the couloir for 200–250 meters (rockfall hazard, piton belay) to the scree-covered saddle of the massif. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. On the scree-covered saddle, turn right and ascend the easy, broken rocks, then large simple blocky rocks ("live" stones, belay) of the 60–80-meter wide Eastern ridge-slope to reach the summit of Osh Western. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. CATEGORY — TECHNICAL
2. REGION — KICHIK-ALAI range
3. PEAK — BORIS RUCHYOV peak 4555 m first ascent via the first northern couloir of the eastern spur (combined)
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3A.
5. Height difference — 600 m. Sections of 5th–6th diff. cat. — none.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay ridge, Kychyk-Apai area
3. Peak: Chelyabinsk Worker peak (first ascent). Height 4400 m. Ascent route: from the north along the ice slope.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m from the assault bivouac, length of sections 5–6 km, average steepness 35°.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying — _, for creating ITO — _ Rock — _, ice — _, bolt — _
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 14 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics:

Brief Description

Ascent route to p. "Носорог" (Rhinoceros Peak) via the northern ridge, category 2B From the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Hodja-Sang-Hok valley, on a grassy clearing under the slopes of p. 40 let Komsomola Tadzhikistana (40 Years of Komsomol of Tajikistan Peak) and per. Sang-Hok, first ascend via grassy and then snowy slopes to below per. Sang-Hok. Without reaching the pass, turn right and ascend the snowy slope leading to the ridge, then along the ridge to the right for 40–50 meters on easy rocks — exit onto a snowy plateau. From the plateau, via simple rocks at 35–40°, reach the ridge visible from the base camp as a "fence". Move along the ridge towards the summit. Bypass obstacle rocks and cornices on the left. After descending into a small depression, bypass a rock pinnacle on the right by descending on snow to a snowy shoulder. Having bypassed the pinnacle, ascend to the ridge via an inner corner for 40 meters at 45°. Then, for 60 meters, move along the inner corner of the ridge to the "Rog" pinnacle. From the "Rog" pinnacle, descend into a small depression and ascend to the summit via a snowy slope, bypassing the ridge on the left on snow. The descent from the summit is to the south along the ridge, then via simple rocks for 40–50 meters into a wide snowy couloir, which leads to a snowy plateau. An alternative descent is possible via the ascent route. The entire route is visible from the base camp and is logical. Recommended for camping and sports groups. A. Koshkin + 3 people, July 5, 1983, 300 m, 40°, 6 rock rings, 1 artificial aid, 8.5 hours.

Table of Main Characteristics of the Route

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE to p. "Носорог" (Rhinoceros Peak) via the northern ridge, category 2B

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical. 2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge. 3. North-Eastern peak of Nemshi, height — 4060 m, ascent route — combined, via north-eastern couloirs, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 650 m, average steepness — 35°, length of sections: cat. I — 120 m, cat. II — 600 m, cat. III — 900 m, cat. IV — 40 m, total — 1660 m

Description

Traverse of the "Seraia" peak 3900 m above sea level

The "Seraia" peak is located in the Southern spurs of the Gissar ridge to the north of Dushanbe city. The ridge of "Seraia" stretches from west to east for a length of 3.5–4 km. The ridge has a remarkably distinctive character in its structure. Being on the same ridge as the "Yakum" peak, which consists of pure granites, the ridge of "Seraia" consists of marbleized limestone, which greatly complicates the organization of piton belay. The ridge consists of three peaks: the Main (or Western) peak (which is the highest), the Middle peak, conditionally called the "Main Gendarme", and the Eastern peak, named by the first ascenders, army climbers, as "Chortov palets" (Devil's Finger). The approaches to the ridge of "Seraia" are most conveniently made from the "Varzob" alpine camp along the Salo-Rabot river valley. After two fifty-minute transitions, we reach the first large right tributary and start ascending up along its left bank, following the trail. The trail leads to the ridge, which leads to the Yakum peak. At the border of rocks and grassy slopes, we cross the ridge and start traversing the slopes on the other side with a slight gain in altitude. The path is easy here. Then we enter the northern cirque of Yakum peak and, continuing to move east along the ridge of "Seraia", we reach the "Prostorny" pass. It is convenient to set up a base camp at this pass. This pass connects two snowy cirques, and therefore it is completely windless here; from here, the most difficult sections of the ascent to the "Main Gendarme" are visible.