Activity Feed
Route Description: центру СВ стены
Description of the ascent via the new route "LADOGA" (6B category) on the NNE wall of Sablya mountain (1497 m) at the Subpolar Urals by a team of St. Petersburg climbers.
Ascent Passport
- Region: Subpolar Urals, Sablinsky Ridge.
- Summit: Sablya (1497 m) Route "LADOGA" via the left part of the NNE wall from Gofman's Glacier.
- Assumed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route character: rock.
- Height difference of the route: 820 m, including the wall part: 570 m. Route length: 915 m, including wall part — 602 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty – 165 m, 6th category of difficulty – 217 m. Average steepness:
Route Description: на бастион, м-т ПВ
A new rock climbing route, category 4B, to the Poachvumchorr summit in Khibiny Mountains, first ascent by a group led by Andreyev A.B. in 2009.
Ascent Passport
- Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. Otkol Cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6
- Peak name — Poachvumchorr, 1095 m, to the bastion. Route name "PV".
- Assumed — 4B cat. dif. First ascent.
- Route type: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 650 m by altimeter. Route length: 610 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 45 m.
- Pitons left on the route: total — 3; including bolted — 0. Total artificial climbing aids (ITOs) used: 0 points.
Route Description: центру стены
Description of the "Through the center of the Poyasa wall" route to the Takhtarvumchorr summit (1143 m) in the Khibiny mountains, 6A category of complexity.
Ascent Passport
- Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. "Poyasov" Cirque. Section number of the classification table: №8.6
- Name of the peak — Takhtarvumchorr — 1143 m, name of the route — "Down the center of the Poyasov wall".
- Proposed — 6A cat. dif., first ascent.
- Nature of the route: rock.
- Height difference of the route: 350 m (by altimeter) Length of the route: 400 m. Length of sections of V cat. dif. — 120 m, VI cat. dif. — 156 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 88.5°, whole route — 83°. 6. Pitons left on the route: total — 3; including bollard pitons — 2. Pitons used: stationary bollard pitons: 2 pcs. Total artificial points of support (APS) used: 105 points. Team's working hours: 30 h.
Route Description: Pourquoi pas? Второй вариант по стене с отметкой 498 м.
Description of the "Pourquoi pas?" route, category IV of complexity on the wall of Cape Ayya with two options for passage and tips on the tactics of descent and passage of the route.
Aiya — 3, 4
Author: Streltsov S., Sevastopol
Cape Aiya. The wall with a mark of 498.1 m, separating the Kazань-Dere tract and the "Lost World"
"Pourquoi pas?" Route, cat. IV. Streltsov S., Volsky I. — 1986 (Variant I) cat. III–IV. Streltsov S., Streltsov M. — 2003 (Variant II)
Tactical Tips for Passing the Wall
I. Landing
Both route variants start from the water. In this regard, it is useful to follow the landing recommendations outlined in the descriptions of the "OBANA" route — 2001, "Piranha" — 2002 on the "Arfen" peak — 235.2 m. Variant I:
- Landing conditions are simple.
Route Description: По прав.части В бастиона
A new variant of the *"Po uglu"* (Along the corner) route 5A on Mshatka-Kaya, complexity category V A1, 240 m, 5 pitches, 5-7 hours ascent.
Mshatka-Kaya. Eastern bastion, variation of the route "Po uglu" 5A (V A1 240 m (5 pitches) t 5–7 h). E. Poltavets (Kharkov) and V. Makoed (Odessa) 2013. The line passes through the inner corner with a non-monolithic relief. The route is prone to rockfall. You can approach the start of the route from the left, like for route №?. There's also an option to approach via the couloir separating Mshatka-Kaya and Zamok: from the road, go up the scree path, overcome a несложную стенку and ascend towards the couloir separating the massifs. Then follow the couloir. The cork is bypassed on the left via rocks (10 m II). From the couloir:
- left and up to the ridge (30 m I),
- then right and up to a large tree at the base of the wall.
After rain and during snowmelt, the couloir is prone to rockfall.
Route description:
Route Description: Куриная лапка
Description of the "Kurinaia lapochka" route, category 4B difficulty, with a focus on altered sections and recommendations for equipment and passage technique.
4Б cat. dif., "Kurinnaya Lapochka" (Chicken Leg)
The exit to the cirque above the first belt of rocks is described in route Ch10. Walk along the terrace to the left, under a narrow, clearly visible crack in the slab, stretching from right to left. The crack is located 40–50 m to the left of a large cornice. R1 is set near a tree under the crack. Climb up the crack to the left and exit onto a small ledge (20 m, 80°, V, small and medium-sized gear). Then:
- Under the cornice, climb up an inner corner with a convenient crack for 15 m to a ledge.
- Traverse left along the ledge to a tree (VI) — R2. From the tree:
- Climb 4–5 m up and to the right along the wall.
- Swing right into an inner corner behind a ridge. Climb complex rocks in the inner corner for 15 m upwards (85°, VA1, small and medium-sized gear), then pass a small overhang and exit into another inner corner.
Route Description: Парабола
The "Parabola" route (4A) on Kush-Kaya: a challenging, unbolted route with rocky sections, approximately 7 pitches long, taking 4-5 hours to complete.
Parabola (second option), 4A (Kush-Kaya)
The approach to the route starts along the path to the "Classic," but you need to veer right immediately. Through the clearings where camps are usually set up, head right and up to the wall, from which ledges and wide cracks extend left and right. Stick to the well-trodden path. Follow the path, then left and up 30-40 m through simple rocks to reach a platform. Tie in here.
R0-R1. Follow a logical crack upwards 40-50 m to the first tree.
R1-R2. From here, head right through bushes to a ledge with a tree under the route. If the route is occupied, it's not worth continuing.
Hazards:
- Rocks hit the entire lower part.
- There's an option to bypass to the right. It's less prone to rockfall, but in places, you have to climb through thickets. R2-R3-R4. From the platform, two yellow-colored cornices are clearly visible to the left at the top of the massif. From here, approach the rightmost upper tree on the platform. From the platform, climb up through slabs and corners to a tree where the crack ends. 10 m higher, there's a small face with old pitons at the top. R4-R5. From here, you need to move left into another crack. Up a vertical, steep crack - a corner:
Route Description: Левее гребневой двойки
Report on the first ascent of the route "left of the ridge duo" 3A-3B category of complexity to the Sokol peak in Crimea by the UTS FANO team "Crimea-23".
Report on the First Ascent to Sokol Peak via the "Levee Grebnevoy Dvoiki" Route 3A/3B Category by the UTS FANO "Krym-23" Team for the Period from 01.05.2023 to 08.05.2023
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Patutinskiy Alexander - 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants | Gogolev Stepan - 3rd sports rank, Roitmay Sofya - 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the Coach | Bogdanov Alexey Vladimirovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | Federation of Alpinism of Nizhny Novgorod Region |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | Crimea |
Route Description: 3 гребню
Report on the first ascent of route category 3B on Pik Abkhaziya via the western ridge in the Western Caucasus in 1992.
Peak: p. Abkhazia
Route: W. ridge
Difficulty category: 3A
Group leader: Solod S. D.
Mountain region: Western Caucasus
Classification section: 2.1
Report on the first ascent of the route to peak Abkhazia via the western ridge
Dnepropetrovsk 1992
Route Description: Ю склону
Report on the first ascent of route 2A category of complexity to the summit of Agepsta via D slope in the Western Caucasus.
Peak: Agepsta
Route: via S slope
Difficulty category: 2A
Group leader: Sidushkin V.M.
Ridge: Acetuka
Mountain region: W Caucasus
Classification section: 2.1
Report
On the first ascent of the route to the peak Agepsta via S slope