Peak: p. Abkhazia Route: W. ridge Difficulty category: 3A Group leader: Solod S. D. Mountain region: Western Caucasus Classification section: 2.1
Report on the first ascent of the route to peak Abkhazia via the western ridge
Dnepropetrovsk
1992
Map of the area V. Agepsta. Scale 1:50 000
Brief description of the route passage
From the base camp, approach the confluence of two rivers at the upper corral. It takes 20 minutes from the camp. Then, go up to the right along the river, the ascent takes 20 minutes. From the river, go up to the left along steep grassy slopes towards the chasm turning into a wide chimney.
In spring and autumn, the latter may be:
- clogged with snow
- clogged with ice
The entrance to the chasm is the start of the route.
Ascent through the chasm – rocks up to 40°. Then a wide chimney is blocked by a cork. 4–5 m upwards in spreads of difficult climbing (belay!), transition to the left wall of the chimney, 4 m of difficult climbing upwards. This is the first key section. Up the chimney turning into a couloir, about 40 meters upwards. Up the grassy-rocky talus, about 15 meters to the left upwards. Exit to a grassy slope (steepness about 20°). Ascend along the stones and talus to the nearest snow patch near the ridge. 7 meters along the snow patch with a steepness of 40°. Then, along gentle grassy ledges, ascend to the ridge. The exit to the ridge is blocked by a wall 20 m high and up to 85° steep (2 m at the top). Climbing is difficult. This is the second key section. Further along the ridge, about 500 meters to the summit, there is easy and moderate climbing.
When moving along the ridge during ascent, it is advisable to stay on the right side, which has a lesser steepness and, as a rule, small inclined ledges.
Descent from the summit is via the ascent route. In key sections, a rappelling is used. At the top, on the cork (section R2), a loop is left for descent and belay.
Route safety assessment
Overall, in good weather, the route is not dangerous. The approach to the chasm – chimney is quite difficult, where the steepness of the grassy slopes in some places reaches 75°. The slopes are dangerous in rainy weather or with snow cover. In the chasm – chimney, rockfall is possible caused by the participant walking ahead.