Mshatka-Kaya — 21

Centre of the eastern bastion, 5a

From the upper road, ascend simple rock to the right part of an overgrown shrubby inclined terrace located under the eastern part of the wall. The route starts 20 m east of the beginning of the right "side" of the Triangle (R0: 300 m, 30–50, easy — I). On the R1–R2 section:

• from a narrow inclined ledge on the left side of a small, not clearly defined counterfort to a pine tree
• then up steep walls to a tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III). Then up through the centre of the bastion. The landmark is a 20-meter internal corner with a tree

Paraguelmen — 2

List of routes to the summit Paraguelmen:

1. Paraguelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and counterfort 1B, II
2. Paraguelmen via the left counterfort of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
3. Paraguelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
4. Paraguelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
5. Paraguelmen via the right counterfort of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraguelmen via SE edge and center of the wall 3B, V

Route 2

Sokol Mt., "Gammi Wall" route (1B)

General view Notes:

1. The route is good because the sun is in full force only after noon, and it is also well protected from winds that sometimes blow off the routes along the main wall.
2. Since the route in the middle part passes through a series of rain gullies, passing it in the rain is dangerous - water can carry stones.
3. Helmets are mandatory on the route due to the presence of loose rubble in the upper part.

Tourist Encyclopedia

Ridge Traverse 2A cat. dif. (Sokol)

Ridge Traverse. View from the side of Novy Svet village. The route is on the border of the 4th sector of Sokol mountain. The description is given according to the "Guidebook" on alpine routes of Crimea. Sokol mountain.

Approach Path

The approaches are quite simple: from the pocket near the road, above the Bay of Love, up the path. (Actually, it's not even a path, but a whole road! — ed.)

Route Description

The landmark for the start of the route is 15 m to the left along the ledge from the memorial plaque (start of

Sokol. "Grebnevaya dvojka" Route 2A (author unknown).

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 50–60 m
• Standard set of cams and nuts
• 10–12 quickdraws
• 2–3 large and 2 medium slings The route is long but very beautiful and relatively safe from rockfall. "Grebnevaya dvojka" Route 2A and neighboring area

So­kol — 47

Is­tukan 3B[#8]

(A. Kuz­mit­sky — I. Ar­temov, Feb­ru­ary 2006)

R0–R1: 40 m, 6a, A1+. Up left via the internal corner by simple climbing to a ledge with a tree, then up via a vertical crack by climbing interchanged with A1+ gear, with a gradual drift leftwards. Belay station on a ledge, on a juniper. R1–R2: 40 m, 4a. Straight up. Belay station on one of the large trees at the base of the ridge. R2–R3: 40–45 m. Simple traverse along the ridge, protection as necessary. Belay station on a tree left of the ridge base. R3–R4: 40–45 m, 5B. Up left — traverse via slabs to a system of cracks, via them up to a vertical wall (be cautious, loose rocks) and through it to a ledge. Landmark — a huge tree on the ledge. Protection is easy to arrange while climbing. Further along the ledge — traverse rightwards to the base of a leaning slab. Belay station on a large boulder. R4–R5: 25 m, 6A+. Up via the right part of the leaning slab (huge gap between the slab and the wall) with an exit onto it, further up via a bolt to a plateau. Belay station on a large characteristic pine tree 5–7 meters from the edge.

Recommended equipment:

50 m rope, 12–16 quickdraws, a set of nuts, large cams and hexes — 2–3 pcs., slings — 2–3 pcs., hammers, pitons.

Sokol. The route on the right side of the left breast with exit to "Between the Breasts" 4A (A. Brynza — Kobylsky (Dnepropetrovsk)).

A rather interesting route if you climb from the road without shortening the ropes on the shelf. By taking the "shortcut," the route is not sufficiently loaded with difficulties for 4A; it's more like a heavy 3B — due to its length. Sokol. On the right side of the left breast with exit to "Between the Breasts" 4A

Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1: The first rope coincides with the "Between the Breasts" route. The station coincides.
• R1–R2: 45 m, 5c, insurance is organized easily:
• pitons

Sokol. "Myth" Route 4B (author unknown).

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 60 m
• 14–16 quickdraws
• Set of nuts
• Set of cams (large 2–3 pieces will ease the process)
• Hammer is mandatory
• Pitons — mandatory
• Large slings

So­kol — 16

Along the counter­forc­ed left breast 5A cat. diff.[№24]

R0–R1: 45 m, 6b+. Climbing a system of internal corners with an exit to the ridge, with a problem to organize belays, especially in the upper part. Requires a safety margin in climbing and mental toughness. Belay station on a bolt + own gear, under an overhang on the left. Quite a dangerous transition to the station, from the ridge under the overhang! R1–R2: 30–35 m, 6c+, A2. Climbing:

• Left and then up to the right
• Unpleasant climbing on jammed rocks
• Further up a vertical crack in the direction of a tree Belay: own + three bolts available (one new). Especially dangerous is the exit to the tree. Station in an internal corner after the tree on own gear. R2–R3: 25–30 m, 5B. Simple climbing on corners and cracks with easy belay organization (careful climbing on live rocks). Station on a ledge on own gear. R3–R4: 50 m, 6A+. Careful climbing on a system of ledges and internal corners in the direction of a large gnarled tree. Belay is easy to organize. Station in a niche behind the gnarled tree… sinking in fallen leaves.

Sokol ­— 24

Author: Alex Kuzmitsky, Moscow New route on Sokol: "Zapakh zhenshchiny" (6c, A2+) I wanted to climb this line for a long time, but it didn't work out. Either I had to walk and describe routes for the guidebook, or help Terr пробивать rock climbing trails on Bolvan. And there was never enough time for a new project. Finally, during the last May holidays, I found time to implement my plan. Tension. There should be no more and no less bolts than required for safe passage of the route. This is important. Moreover, you need to try not to lose the thread and not lead the route somewhere to the side or to the wrong crack by mistake. Experience, sense of relief and preliminary preparation help here, when you spend hours examining the wall, studying section by section of the proposed line. gratitude to Lena Kuznetsova for kind words and humor, Andrey Petrov for support and being there, Misha Volkov for endurance, Yulia Kuznetsova for intolerance in views and critical thinking, Tolya Dzhuliy for guitar and arrival, Den Zhilin for acquaintance and openness, Terr for "Russian translation" and everything else, Igor Petrov for hospitably hosting us again at his rescue service and, of course, to my partner Zhenya Kholodov for hard work and iron will. R2­–­R3: 40 ­m, 5B. Up and then to the right along the crack with grass, through several characteristic bushes. Insurance with nuts and pitons. Station on two bolts at the end of the crack, next to a large almost dead belay ledge.