Aiya — 3, 4

Author: Streltsov S., Sevastopol

Cape Aiya. The wall with a mark of 498.1 m, separating the Kazань-Dere tract and the "Lost World"

"Pour­quoi pas?" Route, cat. IV. Streltsov S., Volsky I. — 1986 (Variant I) cat. III–IV. Streltsov S., Streltsov M. — 2003 (Variant II)

Tactical Tips for Passing the Wall

I. Landing

Both route variants start from the water. In this regard, it is useful to follow the landing recommendations outlined in the descriptions of the "OBANA" route — 2001, "Piranha" — 2002 on the "Arfen" peak — 235.2 m. Variant I:

• Landing conditions are simple.

Mshatka-Kaya. Eastern bastion, variation of the route "Po uglu" 5A (V A1 240 m (5 pitches) t 5–7 h). E. Poltavets (Kharkov) and V. Makoed (Odessa) 2013. The line passes through the inner corner with a non-monolithic relief. The route is prone to rockfall. You can approach the start of the route from the left, like for route №?. There's also an option to approach via the couloir separating Mshatka-Kaya and Zamok: from the road, go up the scree path, overcome a несложную стенку and ascend towards the couloir separating the massifs. Then follow the couloir. The cork is bypassed on the left via rocks (10 m II). From the couloir:

• left and up to the ridge (30 m I),
• then right and up to a large tree at the base of the wall. After rain and during snowmelt, the couloir is prone to rockfall. Route description:

4Б cat. dif., "Kurinnaya Lapochka" (Chicken Leg)

The exit to the cirque above the first belt of rocks is described in route Ch10. Walk along the terrace to the left, under a narrow, clearly visible crack in the slab, stretching from right to left. The crack is located 40–50 m to the left of a large cornice. R1 is set near a tree under the crack. Climb up the crack to the left and exit onto a small ledge (20 m, 80°, V, small and medium-sized gear). Then:

• Under the cornice, climb up an inner corner with a convenient crack for 15 m to a ledge.
• Traverse left along the ledge to a tree (VI) — R2. From the tree:
• Climb 4–5 m up and to the right along the wall.
• Swing right into an inner corner behind a ridge. Climb complex rocks in the inner corner for 15 m upwards (85°, VA1, small and medium-sized gear), then pass a small overhang and exit into another inner corner.

Parabola (second option), 4A (Kush-Kaya)

The approach to the route starts along the path to the "Classic," but you need to veer right immediately. Through the clearings where camps are usually set up, head right and up to the wall, from which ledges and wide cracks extend left and right. Stick to the well-trodden path. Follow the path, then left and up 30-40 m through simple rocks to reach a platform. Tie in here. R0-R1. Follow a logical crack upwards 40-50 m to the first tree. R1-R2. From here, head right through bushes to a ledge with a tree under the route. If the route is occupied, it's not worth continuing. Hazards:

• Rocks hit the entire lower part.
• There's an option to bypass to the right. It's less prone to rockfall, but in places, you have to climb through thickets. R2-R3-R4. From the platform, two yellow-colored cornices are clearly visible to the left at the top of the massif. From here, approach the rightmost upper tree on the platform. From the platform, climb up through slabs and corners to a tree where the crack ends. 10 m higher, there's a small face with old pitons at the top. R4-R5. From here, you need to move left into another crack. Up a vertical, steep crack - a corner:

Report on the First Ascent to Sokol Peak via the "Levee Grebnevoy Dvoiki" Route 3A/3B Category by the UTS FANO "Krym-23" Team for the Period from 01.05.2023 to 08.05.2023

I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Patutinskiy Alexander - 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants	Gogolev Stepan - 3rd sports rank, Roitmay Sofya - 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full Name of the Coach	Bogdanov Alexey Vladimirovich
1.4	Organization	Federation of Alpinism of Nizhny Novgorod Region
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1	Region	Crimea

Peak: p. Abkhazia Route: W. ridge Difficulty category: 3A Group leader: Solod S. D. Mountain region: Western Caucasus Classification section: 2.1

Report on the first ascent of the route to peak Abkhazia via the western ridge

Dnepropetrovsk 1992

Peak: Agepsta Route: via S slope Difficulty category: 2A Group leader: Sidushkin V.M. Ridge: Acetuka Mountain region: W Caucasus Classification section: 2.1

Report

On the first ascent of the route to the peak Agepsta via S slope

2.1.

Peak Albova, 3rd ridge Fleer L.A. Western Caucasus 2.1.

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Western Caucasus, Atsyuk Ridge
3. Peak Albova via the western ridge
4. Proposed category 3B, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 700 m, length 1200 m, average slope of the main part of the route 40°
6. Pitons driven 2

Peak: Pik Sochi Route: E ridge from Sochi Pass Cat. complexity: 4A Group leader: Solod S. D. Mountain region: Western Caucasus Classification section: 2.1

Report

on the first ascent of the route to Pik Sochi via the eastern ridge from Sochi Pass

I. Category of ascent	— technical
2. Area of ascent	— Western Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
3. Peak, its height and ascent route	— Mt. Fisht, 2867 m, via north-eastern ridge
4. Proposed complexity category	2B
5. Route characteristics:
a). height difference	1167 m
b). average steepness	50° (excluding sections on snow plateau)
c). length of sections	— I — 240 m; II — 540 m; III — 305 m; IV — 160 m