2.1.
Peak Albova, 3rd ridge Fleer L.A. Western Caucasus 2.1.
PASSPORT
- Rock climbing category
- Western Caucasus, Atsyuk Ridge
- Peak Albova via the western ridge
- Proposed category 3B, first ascent
- Elevation gain 700 m, length 1200 m, average slope of the main part of the route 40°
- Pitons driven 2 Number of used rock placements 4
- Climbing time 8 hours
- Number of bivouacs — 0
- Leader: Fleer Leonid Alexandrovich, 2nd sports category
Team members:
- Samoylenko Vladimir Vasilievich, 1st sports category
- Koval Konstantin Mikhailovich, 2nd sports category
- Efimov Alexander Vladimirovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
- Mishkel Yulia Frantsevna, 2nd sports category
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Coach: Kozak Leonid Romanovich, Master of Sports.
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Start of the climb: August 13, 1992 Summit: August 13, 1992 Return: August 13, 1992
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Organized by: Dnipropetrovsk Regional Federation of Alpinism, "Dnieper" Alpine Club.
Route Description
From the base camp, Peak Albova is not visible. It is obscured by the Agyepsta-Uzlovaia summit.
From the base camp, move along the bottom of a short valley and grassy ridges towards the middle of the ridge connecting Agyepsta Main and Agyepsta-Uzlovaia summits, towards the ridge. Further, move up and to the right along grassy slopes and ledges, crossing streams and waterfalls, into the upper cirque below the Agyepsta pass, then along the stream and dense firn of the cirque and a short talus slope to the pass.
From the pass, the western ridge of Peak Albova becomes visible. Descend to the left and down, traversing talus slopes and firn fields under the slope of the ridge connecting Agyepsta-Uzlovaia and Peak Albova. Then ascend via a talus gully and broken rocks towards a depression in the ridge. From the start of the gully to the ridge, it's about 60 m. Then, move along the ridge towards the summit via:
- grassy and rocky ledges,
- broken rocks,
- alternating with short rock walls (up to 10–15 m).
It is recommended to pass the wall on section R5 along the right edge.
The ridge leads to a rocky area, from where a 20 m rappel leads to a rocky ledge that takes you to a narrow saddle below the pre-summit slope of Peak Albova. Then:
- move along simple slabs and talus,
- into the pre-summit talus gully,
- and further to the summit.
From the base camp, it takes 5–6 hours. Descent via the ascent route takes 2–3 hours. The rappel section on the descent is done by climbing down (on the ascent).
Route Safety Assessment
- The route requires attention on sections R0, R3, R6 due to heavily broken rocks.
- For the same reason, it is not recommended to bypass gendarmes via ledges below them.
- On section R3, there is a risk of dislodging rocks with the rappel rope.