36 ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kungey Alatau
3. Peak — MALENKIY PRINTS, height — 3860 m, route — via North-West ridge, COMBINED.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 700 m
   • average steepness — 45 degrees
   • sections of IV difficulty category — 22 m

Brief Explanation of Table I

The route is laid through the eastern counterfort of p. Makhabbat. The exit to the counterfort's ridge is via the southeastern wall. On both sides, the counterfort is bounded by steep snow-ice couloirs (rockfall hazard!), making the route unambiguous (detouring individual sections is impossible). The peak's rocks are composed of strong, monolithic rocks that are little susceptible to erosion and are, therefore, very smooth and difficult to traverse. The route is combined: the shady orientation of some sections of the wall and ridge results in the presence of steep snow and formed ice. 0–I The route begins with overcoming short walls connected by wide inclined shelves. Snow is present in some areas. I–2 Ascend via a snow patch to a wall, initially overcoming it directly, then moving left along a small ledge, up a short internal corner, and under an overhanging cornice to the right onto a wide shelf. 2–3. Left of a smooth, steep internal corner, ascend a steep wall to reach a chimney filled with formed ice. Climb the chimney to a stopper. Above is a convenient belay spot. This is the crux section. 3–4. Ascend rocks of moderate difficulty to reach a steep snow-ice slope. 4–5. A section of steep formed ice requires chopping steps. An ice screw is necessary for belaying. The ice leads to a chimney with a stopper. 5–6. The chimney is formed by a large flake — a "quill." The chimney contains much snow and formed ice. Climb the chimney to a stopper, then to a shelf on the other side of the "quill."

I. Climbing category - combined 2. Climbing region - Tian Shan, Kunghey Ala-Too 3. Peak PARUS, height 4130 m, route via N ridge, combined 4. Estimated difficulty category - 2A 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 550 m
• average slope - 20°
• sections of 5th difficulty category - none

6. Pitons hammered in:
   • for belaying - 10 chocks, for creating artificial anchors - none

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class.
2. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier.
3. Peak Khan-Tengri via the South-Southwest ridge.
4. 5B category of difficulty, previous ascent was over 3 years ago.
5. Elevation gain — 2610 m, route length — 2840 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 2010 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 47°, including 45 m of 6 category of difficulty with 70° steepness.
6. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — none. Previously driven hooks used and not removed — none.
7. Team's climbing hours: 40 and days – 6.

Report

On the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the eastern counterfort of the northern wall from the North Inylchek glacier. Team of the CS "Lokomotiv"

Conventions

• — — Route 1964 of the team DSO "Burevestnik"
• — — — Route 1970 of the team DSO "Lokomotiv"

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

A. Geography of the area

Khan-Tengri peak is located in the Tengri-Tag range, the second highest range of Tian Shan. The range is stretched in the latitudinal direction and serves as a boundary between the North and South Inylchek glaciers. Khan-Tengri peak is the most significant summit in the range, noticeably standing out among other peaks. The lower part of Khan-Tengri is composed of dark-colored limestones and shales, and the upper part is made of light marble. The boundary of the rocks forming the peak is very visible on the northern wall. The North Inylchek glacier is relatively flat and less dissected in its upper part. In the area of Khan-Tengri peak, it reaches an altitude of 4000 m above sea level.

Passport

Ascent to Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the center of the North face.

1. Ascent category: high-altitude
2. Ascent area: Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: center of the North face, height 6995 m
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 2600 m, average steepness 55°, length of complex section 710 m
5. Number of hooks driven: rock 278, ice 58, bolted —
6. Number of nights and their characteristics: 13 on dug-out platforms, 5 of which were sitting
7. Number of travel hours: 119
8. Team name: Team of CS DSO "Spartak"

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Chapayeva, 6371, via the Western part of the South face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 2371 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 2050 m, average slope – 55°.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | rock | ice | bolt |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too range, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Peak — Peak Burevestnik, 4360 m, ascent route — via North-Eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 514 m, length of sections IV–V cat. diff. — 320 m, average steepness 55°
6. Pitons driven: rock protection — 33, ice — 2, bolted — 0
7. Number of travel hours — 14

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Summit — Keldysh Peak, 4430 m, ascent route via the North Ridge from Ayilama Pass
4. Estimated category difficulty: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 766 m, length of sections with IV–V category difficulty — 660 m, average steepness 48°
6. Pitons used: rock anchors — 12, ice screws — 34, bolt anchors — 0
7. Total climbing hours — 15
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 0

Route Description

From the Myrdı bivouac, ascend the grassy slopes towards the lower part of the eastern ridge of Pyramida. Then turn right onto the large, wide slopes cut by a chain of couloirs and scree, rising towards the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier. Reach the glacier via the large, long moraine. Continue straight up towards the clearly visible, rightmost narrow saddle on the Pyramida ridge. The ridge connects to the summit of Ak-bashi to the right. The ascent to the saddle follows a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then a narrow 100-meter couloir (ice in the second half of summer). From the saddle, descend 50 m to the other side and follow a wide, 400-meter scree shelf that wraps around the base of Pyramida from the west, approaching a large rocky outcrop. Ascend the outcrop upwards and to the left, then move onto inclined shelves above a white quartz vein (protection!). Then bypass the first rocky prominence and move towards the wedge-shaped rock protruding from the second rocky prominence on the ridge. Ascend to the wedge-shaped rock via broken rocks, then follow the inner angle - a couloir (water!) - to reach the upper scree slopes above the wall via a small R6 rock wall. Follow the scree slopes and small ridges to reach the main ridge of the summit at a large, horizontally lying slab. From here, move left and down into a small depression, then ascend to the summit via yellow rocks. 6 hours from the bivouac. Descent from the summit follows the "Pyramida via the Southeast Ridge" route.

• Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 5 am.
• On the eve of the ascent day, mark the path to the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier.